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Author Topic:  BOSS Effects pedals battery issue
Dwight Lewis


From:
Huntsville, Alabama
Post  Posted 2 May 2016 6:51 am    
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Does anyone have this problem?....I purchased a couple of BOSS effects pedals thru Ebay(EQ, Flanger,Phaser,DS1x). Of them all the DS-1x was new the others are used. I put a 9v battery inside and they work, plug up to the AC unit and they work.The DS-1x's battery holds the battery charge until the battery goes dead just from usage but, the other 3 will kill the battery if sitting(input unplugged)all this with a new battery and used twice with the AC unit. What gives. Anyone know if I am just halucenating or did I just put in defective or old batteries? I have a Vwah pedal and a Chorus pedal that have had the same batteries in side for months but work on battery power when I need them.

Thanks


Dwight
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 2 May 2016 6:54 am    
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I never rely on battery power, I use a wall wart all the time.
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Jeff Bollettino


From:
Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 2 May 2016 10:55 am    
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What are the model numbers on the other pedals?
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Dwight Lewis


From:
Huntsville, Alabama
Post  Posted 2 May 2016 3:08 pm     Boss effects pedal battery issues
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I have the battery inside just in case, you know. Better to have it and not need it...


My EQ is GE-7 serial#ZY02653
The Flanger is the BF-3, #AQ00015
Phase Shifter PH-3,#EV06334
I bought them used but they look like new.

Thank Very Happy
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Ole Dantoft


From:
Copenhagen, Denmark
Post  Posted 9 May 2016 4:41 am    
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Either the batteries were old or those pedals have been modified, because ALL Boss pedals able to run off a 9V battery has the battery disconnect switch in the input jack and at least the DS-1 and the GE-7 use very little current - I can't speak for the other ones - so a good battery will last a long time in those.

Ole
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Peter Harris

 

From:
South Australia, Australia
Post  Posted 10 May 2016 3:58 am    
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..maybe just check to see that the switching jack contacts are doing what they are supposed to do... .and not bent or stuck.. ..or even broken off...

...just could be the source of the problem, because as Ole said, the switching jacks are supposed to disconnect the battery when the input lead is unplugged..

HTH
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Craig Baker


From:
Eatonton, Georgia, USA - R.I.P.
Post  Posted 10 May 2016 4:24 am     F Y I Batteries
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Some older units have LEDs that draw as much current as the circuit itself. The LEDs could probably be replaced with low-current types to extend battery life.

Speaking of batteries. . . I have read on other forums, several posts regarding leakage from batteries. It seems that of the more well-known brands, Ray-O-Vac and Duracell get poor reviews while Energizers don't have this problem.

If you're REALLY concerned about battery life, use 9 volt lithium smoke alarm batteries. They're more expensive, but last up to ten times as long as alkaline batteries.

Craig
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Dwight Lewis


From:
Huntsville, Alabama
Post  Posted 11 May 2016 10:46 am     Boss battery issue
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I am going to try the lithium batteries. Thanks again.
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John Gould


From:
Houston, TX Now in Cleveland TX
Post  Posted 11 May 2016 11:16 am     Agree with Craig
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I have to agree with Craig, I've been inside a bunch of these and seen the current drawing on the led's to be high and changed those out and got twice the battery life.
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David Mason


From:
Cambridge, MD, USA
Post  Posted 11 May 2016 3:39 pm    
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I eventually outgrew the tiny daisy-chain type Class D wallwarts - yes they can POWER things, but if you get weird noise you do end up needing to isolate the power inputs with a power supply, VooDoo makes good ones, the new Dunlops look good. But I STILL keep a full "reload" of batteries in reserve, because there are certain "venues" - ummm, every bar owner is a master electrician, right? Certain profoundly sleazy "venue" wiring can even overwhelm a decent power supply = Energizer Bunny to the rescue!
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ajm

 

From:
Los Angeles
Post  Posted 12 May 2016 7:01 am    
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".....but if you get weird noise you do end up needing to isolate the power inputs with a power supply, VooDoo makes good ones, the new Dunlops look good."

My warning here is that a lot of these "brick" type commercial upgraded supplies do not have isolated outputs. Several of them have (for example) multiple jacks for 9VDC, but if you read the literature the jacks are not isolated. So in essence the "daisy chain" is inside the power supply.

Their advertising IMO is somewhat misleading, so you need to do your homework.

So which ones are which, I hear you asking? FYI, here is some research I did a while back on various supplies. This is a couple of years old, but I doubt that anything has changed. In addition, I have seen ads for several new models/manufacturers that have hit the market that I have not investigated. For example, One Spot has a couple of new models that are brick type and not wall wart.
........................................
Dunlop Brick: NON-isolated outputs (I was surprised): $120
Voodoo Labs Pedal Power II Plus: 8x9v isolated: $170
Voodoo Labs Pedal Power Iso 5: 4x9v isolated (one 12v), one 18v isolated: $110
TRex:
Chameleon: Isolated outs: $150
Classic: 8x9v, Non-isolated: $200
Juicy Lucy:5x isolated outs, BUT they are 12v: $200
Junior: 5x9v isolated: $100
BBE Supa Charger: 8x isolated outs: $150
One Spot: Single 9v out: $35
Pedal Pad (MKS) Power Pad II: 8X 9v outs, no info on isolated or not, $90. Note: Doesn't seem to be carried by a lot of dealers, FWIW.

The end.
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