Bicycle Lube

Marc Weller · From: Upland, Ca. 91784

I want to thank whoever it was on the forum that suggested bicycle chain lube awhile back. Being an avid cyclist I had some lying around so I gave it a try on my Williams. Incredible results. Very noticeable improvement over the trombone valve oil or sewing machine oil I've used in the past. The product is called "Tri-Flow Dry Lubricant with Teflon". Available at most bike shops and highly recommended.

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

That's what I use--maybe it was my post. But most assuredly I wouldn't have thought to use it without having read the suggestion here from someone else.
I got the small 2 oz. bottle and will need to get more soon. After about four years. I reckon I got my money's worth.
Mine, though is not "dry" lube. It's liquid, like sewing machine oil. Yes, with teflon. Are we talking about different products?

Tom Olson · From: Spokane, WA

At the risk of sounding stupid, what exactly do you use it on? All moving parts of the mechanism, or just certain ones? Do you put it on top of the changer fingers to lubricate the strings? I thought that I'd heard of that being done, but maybe I misunderstood. Thanks.

Jim Hankins · From: Yuba City, California, USA

There is one I use called Boeshield T-8 (I think). It is becomming popular with bicyclists, and is used to prevent corrossion on wood saws, etc. Anyone else use this? Jim

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

New one on me, Jim.

Tom--all the moving parts. Every couple of months I give the undersides a going over, tightening things, lubing things, etc. A good applicator is a must (Tri Flo comes in a squeeze container with a long mini-straw tip) for getting into the changer and putting the oil where you want it instead of a shotgun approach. But not so that you find a puddle on the floor in the morning, you know? I've also read here about lubing the string-contact point of the changer finger for increased string longevity and I've got to admit that I am sceptical.

Mark Herrick · From: Bakersfield, CA

I've used Tri-Flo for quite a while.

In a thread about a year ago Herb Steiner mentioned using Break-Free CLP. It's a cleaner/lubricant used on firearms. Never thought of it for use on the steel guitar (I do use it to clean and lube my Browning Citori XS Skeet), but if it's good enough for the tight tolerances on many firearms, maybe I'll give it a try on the steel...

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Marc Weller · From: Upland, Ca. 91784

Hi Jon,

It is a clear liquid but for whatever reason it says "dry lubricant" on the bottle. I'm sure it's the same stuff you are talking about. Works great on my bike too !!!

MW

[This message was edited by Marc weller on 29 November 2004 at 03:58 PM.]

Larry Clark · From: Herndon, VA.

The "liquid" in the dry lubricants is a carrier which evaporates and leaves the dry lubricant in its place.

D Schubert · From: Columbia, MO, USA

My first can of Tri-Flow came from a pistol-shooting buddy, and it's good for squeaky car doors, sticky mic stand clutches, clanky b-benders, eyeglass hinges, and the like -- as well as pedal steels. When I ran out, I ended up with a tall spray can of Rem-Lube (Remington Arms, from Wal-Mart hunting dept) that is essentially the same stuff: Teflon dissolved in a fast-evaporating liquid spray. Good stuff.

Nicholas Dedring · From: Beacon, New York, USA

One question:

The dry bike lubes are referred to as "wax" for chains... does this mean that it builds up over time? Even if it is a really thin layer, is it problematic in terms of increasing residue being left behind over time?

Roger Edgington · From: San Antonio, Texas USA

The only problem I've had with lubrication is I once got some really good lube and some of it seeped into the nylon nuts you use to tune your pedals with. Had to take some of them off and clean them with alcohol. So I guess you should lube it but don't drown it.

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