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Topic: adding c6 changes to a Fessenden? |
Adam Tracksler
From:
Maine, USA
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Posted 27 Oct 2015 2:46 am |
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I have a 8/5 D10 Fessenden that Id like to add some knee changes to the C6. The E9 is fine, but my C6 only has a RKR change on the C6 neck and I'd like to add the other A and C changes from the Emmons C6 copedant.
How easy/hard is it to add the changes, apart form buying the parts?
Thanks, adam |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 27 Oct 2015 3:22 am
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It depends on your attention to detail. The shafts MUST be perpendicular to the necks. I'd measure rear apron to the holes in the scissors, and make sure you have the bellcranks in the right places (off-axis pulls offer resistance).
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 27 Oct 2015 4:48 am
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To reduce double-footing, may I suggest a total rerodding, moving P5 to a knee so that combining with P7 or rocking from 5 to 8 don't require both feet. I then use the last pedal to raise 3 and 7 to C#
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Henry Matthews
From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
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Posted 27 Oct 2015 6:38 am
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Adam, I have some Fessy knee levers (4 to be exact) that I took off my Fessy when I bought it. Five is plenty for me and guitar had nine. I believe two vertical and two regular knees. Will have to check and make sure. Will take $200 for them all shipped.
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Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
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Adam Tracksler
From:
Maine, USA
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Posted 27 Oct 2015 1:43 pm
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I already have 5 knee levers, I don't think my brain could handle more, I just want to make my LKL/LKR and RKL make some changes.
I wish I knew the names for the parts, but I know I'll need (for each change) a spring, a rod that connects the spring, and a little toothy part to hold the rod... right? |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 27 Oct 2015 4:56 pm
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www.steelguitar.com is a good resource for parts nomenclature, how a changer works, how to install & time pulls etc. You might want to look it over.
You can add changes to your C6 neck on RKL fairly easy. You need what are referred to as a pull trains....pull bar or bellcrank that attaches to the knee lever cross shaft, a pull rod, and nylon tuning nut.
Adding C6 changes on the left knees that you use for the E9th neck are not often done. Really awkward to use over there when you're using the C6 pedals in the center of the guitar.
Almost every guitar needs dedicated levers working toward the center, sometimes called inside, of the guitar for comfortable C6 use. Your guitar apron is probably already worked for C6 levers at least on one side.
If you talk to Jerry Fessenden he can tell you what you need. If you buy those parts from him, they will all be mostly sized to fit the locations for your guitar and should be relatively straight forward if you have some basic skills & tools. Good Luck!
Edit:Sorry Henry, I missed where you said you had some extra parts for sale. |
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Henry Matthews
From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
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Posted 27 Oct 2015 7:46 pm
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No problem Jerry, I hadn't listed them but just that I'd let Adam know I had them. I think it's about 10 lbs of parts,  That's one reason I took them off.
_________________
Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
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David Nugent
From:
Gum Spring, Va.
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Posted 28 Oct 2015 4:11 am
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| The Fessenden guitars are one of the simplest designs to perform changes to. For each additional raise/lower that you want to add, one bell crank (toothy thing),one nylon tuning nut, and one pull rod of the proper length (Fessenden pull rods feature angled ends and must be sized for the proper application)will be necessary. As mentioned by Lane, rods MUST be positioned so that they pull in as straight a line as possible without interfering with other changes (dragging or binding on adjacent rods or bell cranks)...FWIW: Also please consider, the greater number of strings pulled by a particular pedal/lever will most likely increase the amount of pressure needed to activate same. |
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