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Topic: Silicone sealant on electronic contacts |
Howard Steinberg
From: St. Petersburg, Florida , USA
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Posted 16 Sep 2015 3:54 am
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i have a Gypsy Kat amp which is part of the Jazz Kat series of amps that was popular a few years ago. It's a class D amp with the power section in the bottom and the pre attached to the control panel. It has slide on lugs that connect the power to the pre. Periodically these lugs work themselves loose causing intermittent function. It seems to happen at very inopportune times, which makes sense as the amp has been transported to a gig.
A few years back I recall a tech putting some kind of silicone on removable contacts of an amp that I was using. Wondering if this is a viable approach to the issue described and if so, what product should I use. Many thanks for all input. _________________ Justice Pro Lite (4-5), Justice D-10 (8-5)x2 , Quilter Steelaire, Hilton Pedal, BJ's bar. |
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Craig Baker
From: Eatonton, Georgia, USA - R.I.P.
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Stephen Cowell
From: Round Rock, Texas, USA
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Posted 16 Sep 2015 5:20 am
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RTV silicone exudes acetic acid (vinegar), so it's not good around electrical contacts. I'm not familiar with your amplifier, but that may be one reason it's not made now... things with sliding contacts that can work loose are not really good for pro gigs.
I suggest that the lugs be soldered together so that there is no longer any possibility of coming apart. _________________ Too much junk to list... always getting more. |
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Howard Steinberg
From: St. Petersburg, Florida , USA
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Posted 16 Sep 2015 8:05 am
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Thanks guys for your input. I think I'm going to solder the connections, assuming that I can get it in a position to clean the contacts and solder. I'm going to use it on a gig tonight, with a backup. It's a really nice sounding amp that has been sitting in a closet for a few years due to this issue. _________________ Justice Pro Lite (4-5), Justice D-10 (8-5)x2 , Quilter Steelaire, Hilton Pedal, BJ's bar. |
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Dave Hepworth
From: West Yorkshire, UK
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Posted 17 Sep 2015 12:27 am
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Hi,
How about using a hot glue gun on the contacts. Once set it is durable and hard.Sets in a few seconds too.
Regards Dave |
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Tim Russell
From: Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 17 Sep 2015 2:18 am
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Howard,
As Craig linked to, I bet the tech was using Dielectric grease. I've never thought of using it on speaker/instrument contacts, but it does make sense. _________________ Sierra Crown D-10 |
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Dave Hepworth
From: West Yorkshire, UK
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Posted 17 Sep 2015 2:30 am
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Hi again,
Surely by definition a dialectic ,used in capacitors and condensers implies that there could be an impact on frequency conduction.There is potential here for loss in frequencies ,a bit like a tone cut on a guitar.
Open to correction if I am wrong ,just a thought.Looking at the packaging of the product it is used in DC applications.
Regards Dave |
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Donny Hinson
From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 17 Sep 2015 4:53 am
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The slide-on contacts can be carefully crimped, so they will almost never come loose, but can still be removed when necessary. It takes a little skill to do it, but it's not rocket science. |
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Michael Brebes
From: Northridge CA
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Posted 17 Sep 2015 8:17 am
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A picture of the offending connectors/lugs would really help in you getting the proper advice. _________________ Michael Brebes
Instrument/amp/ pickup repair
MSA D10 Classic/Rickenbacher B6/
Dickerson MOTS/Dobro D32 Hawaiian/
Goldtone Paul Beard Reso
Mesa Boogie Studio Pre/Hafler 3000
RP1/MPX100 |
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Craig Baker
From: Eatonton, Georgia, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 17 Sep 2015 12:04 pm
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Stephen has the best overall solution. Nothing beats soldering. The only down side is: it may be a little troublesome if you ever need to separate them.
Important to use radio & tv rosin-core solder. NEVER acid core.
Best regards,
Craig Baker 706-485-8792
cmbakerelectronics@gmail.com
C.M. Baker Electronics
P.O. Box 3965
Eatonton, GA 31024 _________________ "Make America Great Again". . . The Only Country With Dream After Its Name. |
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