"B: Pedal trouble - Has kind of a false stop

Barry Yasika · From: Bethlehem, Pa.

I have and Emmons LeGrande II and I've noticed that my "B" pedal seems to have a sort of false stop. When I push it down it feels like it stopped but is not down all the way making the string slightly out of tune. If I push harder it goes the rest of the way down and everything is OK. I think the trouble is in the changer and a friend told me Bobby Seymour once told him to use carberator cleaner by spraying it into the changer. I wonder if anyone has tried anything like that. Or if anyone has any better idea to clean the changer.

I'm also open to things anyone might suggest I check. I've double checked all the pedals, rods, bell cranks and can't seem to find anything wrong there. I'm getting really tired of this problem.

Earnest Bovine · From: Los Angeles CA USA

Does the pitch on both G# strings raise before the false stop?

chris ivey · From: california (deceased)

it sounds as if the two pulls on that pedal are not timed properly.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I agree with Chris. One pull is probably set fairly stiff and short, and the other soft and long.
If it formerly had a wound 6th and now has a plain, the 6th string will be just taking up slack for most of the pedal travel.
Tell us what string gauges you have, and what holes in the bellcrank the two pulls use.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Dennis Andreatta · From: hazel crest,illinois,60429

This topic just might help me also. I have a S10 PP I think early 80's that is doing the same thing. Lane would the same things you suggest also apply to a PP ? I am almost ready to contact a PP expert for repair.

Dennis

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

With the push-pull you can't change bellcrank positions, but the raise finger has several different holes in it.
Because it pulls the fingers to the cabinet, they HAVE to end together, and some "notchiness" is normal (and, IMO, part of the mojo. It's not that they SOUND different, but they PLAY different).
But you can speed up or slow down by moving the hook closer to the axle (speed up) or away from the axle (slow down).
Put the guitar in the case, operate the B pedal, and observe how far each finger has to move, and whether they start and end together. Make a note of which hole the hooks are in, and experiment.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Dennis Andreatta · From: hazel crest,illinois,60429

thanks Lane...

Barry Yasika · From: Bethlehem, Pa.

The string sizes I'm using are below, I don't know what the guitar was set up to use. They're basically Buddy Emmons S.I.T. Signature Set Strings.

What your saying makes sense but I'll have to check and see exactly what holes the rods are in. I bought this from a fellow who bought it new from Emmons and I don't think he messed with anything that the factory had set up. Sadly, he didn't have the guitar all that long before he passed away. So I would have to believe it still has the factory set up. I will double check once I get home. Thanks for the interest guys, I appreciate your input.

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Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

The 22P sixth is common enough. But if it were built and rodding with the 22W in mind, the third string would engage quickly, and pull throughout the pedal, and you'd feel a "notch" near the end when the pedal picks up the 6th string (the wound will need lots of travel compared to the plain, so if it were rodded for wound and given a plain, you'd have to back off the nut a LOT).
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Jay Riddle · From: Pennsboro, W.V.

I experienced the same thing but on an older all-pull steel. Good rules of thumb and I'll remember them...Jay

Tony Glassman · From: The Great Northwest

If the 6th String is pulling too quickly, and the changer hole selection change is too stiff, you can place a short compression spring btw the bell crank & coller. That will serve to engage the sixth string a bit later so both changes end together.

Barry Yasika · From: Bethlehem, Pa.

I took a look at the way the two bell cranks engaged and the 3rd string started to pull before the 6th string. I tried several combinations but the one that seemed to get rid of the problem was leaving the 3rd string rod where it was and moving the 6th string rod up (toward the top of the steel) one hole. In my mind I can't figure out why that worked but both strings start to bend at the same time now and my false stop appears to be gone. I never would have thought to mess or even look at that since I've never touched it in the 15 years I've owned the guitar. The problem seemed to worsen or my ears got more sensitive over time and I'd get around it by trying to stay aware of it and always wearing my special shoes and smashing the hell out of the pedal to make sure it made it all the way down. It's embarrassing to admit that Rolling Eyes

but either way it really does seem to be taken care of now. Thanks guys and especially Earnest, Chris and Lane for taking the time to explain things for me. Such a subtle change with an enormously satisfying result. I can hear, see and most of all feel the differance.

Billy Carr · From: Seminary, Mississippi, USA (deceased)

Glad you found the solution on the guitar. Check the pedal stops also. 71' thru 81', I played a D-10 P/P and encountered all kinds of surprises. The weight and tuning problems is mainly why I sold it. Imagine a 14 year kid in 71' hauling around a D-10 p/p. I went from a p/p to a D-10 MSA SS, lacquer body. Major difference. Thing about p/p's is once you get one set properly they'll stay that way usually. Thanks.

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