Guidance In Disassembling/Reassembling

Ryan Dalton · From: Toms River, NJ, USA

Hey all,

So I have been talking to someone that is interested in a PSG that I have. I am not one that likes to give someone something that isn't up to par. That isn't fair to them and I feel it makes me look bad. I went ahead and ordered new strings and all new nylon tuning nuts but I would like to go through it very thoroughly.

I used the search feature a good bit but couldn't come up with what I wanted. Are there any master guides out there for disassembling/assembling different parts of the undercarriage?

Are there any tips/tricks to removing the changer? Has anyone ever taken CLR to different components to try to clean them up? How do you determine what slot pull rods go through? Is there any way to fix a little play in a machine head? Are any of the pull rods designed with a bend in them?

I apologize if these are rookie questions or if it has been asked before. I have a pull rod or two that has two bends in it. I'm not sure if it was too long and this was done to make up for the extra length or what.

The wiring even has me a little concerned.

I appreciate all responses! Thank you in advance!

Tony Glassman · From: The Great Northwest

I'm not trying to be judgemental but by the nature of your questions, it seems as if you've little or no experience working on steel guitars. If that's the case, you won't be doing the future owner any favors by doing an assembly/reassembly. Have an experienced steel mechanic do the work, if you suspect problems w/ the guitar.

Darrell Birtcher · Posted 30 Mar 2015 12:07 am

I've never used CLR on a steel guitar and I wouldn't. Most of the crud on the underside is related to dirt, smoke, dust, etc that is attracted by lubricating oil.

CLR may have somewhat of a rinsing action but it's composition is designed specifically to chemically counteract deposits of calcium, lime, and rust. It's not a very good degreaser and I doubt you have any calcium or lime deposits on your steel. Not even sure what it will do to aluminum, or to lacquer or polyurethane finishes. Probably won't hurt 'Mica. There are better things out there. Naptha is the safest but it is flammable.

If you're really going to do this, photograph and document EVERYTHING. You can make a chart showing which bell crank and changer holes are used by each rod, and it helps to label the rods before you start. Your manufacturer may be able to supply a rodding chart, if they are still around and the setup is still as it was when it left the factory.

Some steels do use rod bends. I've also seen some that had rods added after the fact that were poorly bent and they caused problems. Bending a rod is usually a last resort for interference problems. It shouldn't be done to take up slack in a rod that is too long.

Maybe you can find someone with some experience to mentor with, if you're really determined to do this yourself. I'd hate to see it turn into a basket case.
Good luck. It'll be a good learning experience for you.

Ryan Dalton · From: Toms River, NJ, USA

I appreciate it! I think I need to pick a day where I know I'll be 100% free, document everything, and try to do it all in a day that way I'm not going a deal of time and forgetting little bits about how I took it apart.

I'm relatively mechanical. I can usually look at something and understand why and how it works the way that it does. The main downfall to taking apart an instrument that is 37 years old is that there may be things incorrect with it that I don't catch taking it apart simply because I haven't had the chance to work with a perfect setup to know it. The way it is set up may be functional but maybe there's a better way that I don't think of or know I could do.

I'll never know if I don't try it though. Worst case scenario is I mess up. As long as I don't set the cabinet on fire, it can be fixed Razz

. I know there's guys on this forum that are incredible at restorations, rebuilding, and whatnot. With that being said, if I'm not quite happy with it, maybe I'll send it their way to be looked over.

Ryan Dalton · From: Toms River, NJ, USA

Pictures for anyone who is interested.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

CLR is not the solvent of choice.
That guitar looks to be in good shape, but those two right knees ain't Bud. Those bellcranks look funny, as do the rods. I'd talk to James Morehead or Michael Yahl for bellcranks and rods for those knees, they look janky.
Typically, pulls are straight.
Determining which holes rods go in is a matter of timing pulls so that symmetrical pulls start at the same time, or in some cases, one pull starts when another string is at a certain pitch.
Since it doesn't look gunged up, I'd use a sewing machine oiler to put ONE DROP of oil at each pivot point of the changer on each string.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Bill Moore · From: Manchester, Michigan

It looks like the all the knee levers have been moved from their original positions. Looks like they have all been moved a little to the right. The LKL has the wrong cross shaft; it should be shorter, like the one on LKR. LKR is located too far toward the rear of the guitar. LKR looks strange too. But it looks like it's mostly the original parts. Judging by all the screw holes, things have been re-arranged a few times. I would not try to do anything to this guitar, unless you know what you are doing. It needs quite a bit of work. If the buyer is not able to do the work either, find someone that is able to do it.

Charlie McDonald · From: out of the blue

I think a good place to start would be finding a steel mechanic in your area and get to know him.

If you've been reading here, you know that these guys know what they're talking about.
The timing of the pulls that Lane mentioned will have you scratching your head; when you take it to your steel man,
he may see some other things that need to be re-done.

If you're wanting to make a 'show-car' of it, take it directly to the steel mechanic, who is your friend by now.
_________________
Those that say don't know; those that know don't say.--Buddy Emmons

Craig A Davidson · From: Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA

It also looks like possibly it was a D-10 at one time judging by the pick-up cavity and the hole for the pick-up lead under the padded side. That really makes no difference in what is left just saying. if it is playing good and things are hanging up now and then I would try to oil the changer and anyplace that parts move before tearing the guitar apart. And yes by all means if you get hung up contact James Morehouse or Ricky Davis. The are both gurus of the Sho-Bud.

chris ivey · From: california (deceased)

STOP! ....someone's got to say it! you obviously don't have a clue about what you're doing. leave it alone. it looks fairly intact so it probably only needs a little adjustment. DON"T DO THAT EITHER!
you don't understand. it's situations like this that screw up perfectly good steels and make them a nightmare for every owner after you.
tell the interested party it probably needs some adjustment and sell it. you shouldn't have it.
DON"T TOUCH IT!

Jim Hinds · From: Gallatin, TN USA

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

Treat it for termites Smile

Ryan Dalton · From: Toms River, NJ, USA

Where can I find the termite treatment at?

Only kidding Razz

At first I was a little disappointed with these comments. If there's this many experienced pedal steelers telling me it's a bad idea though, it's PROBABLY a bad idea.

I really appreciate the input and I'll probably try to contact Mr. Morehead after work today.

Thanks again, all.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

The Sho-Bud changer isn't that hard to mess with.
While Chris has some points, if you take lots of pictures (and if you have a smartphone, some videos from several angles of what happens when you move a lever), you should be able to get it sorted yourself.
And people are usually able to help diagnose the problem as long as you're also willing to calm down in the middle of a panic and say WHAT's not working right, and describe how things are moving.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Tony Glassman · From: The Great Northwest

Chris is right. The problem isn't that he wants to learn steel mechanics on his own guitar. We all do that.

It's that he's planning to sell this guitar to someone else.

Ryan Dalton · From: Toms River, NJ, USA

I wouldn't be worried about it and would have shipped it already if I were a douche that wasn't concerned about the quality of the instrument. Doesn't that tell you that if I had any doubts about it after I made an attempt, I would hang onto it and have someone more qualified look at it?l

I didn't want to sell anyone junk that had been heavily modified by half ass guys over the years. I thought there was enough experience and knowledge in this forum to create a thread to help others in the future as well. I was wrong and I'll contact Mr. Morehead. Thank you.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I wouldn't say you're wrong. There's just some frank-spoken cats on here, and some can be abrasive, but most mean well.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Dustin Rhodes · From: Owasso OK

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

"CLR" is a composite acid, and it will etch or otherwise ruin most all metals, except for certain grades of stainless steel.

I'm also kinda of the opinion that if it isn't broke, you shouldn't try to fix it. As long as a pedal steel plays okay, it's really best that most players (especially those with no experience) not try rebuilding. I also suspect that even some of this "cleaning and flushing" players are doing is unnecessary, and may be (in some cases) harmful.

All it's really gotta do is work.

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