| Author |
Topic: ShoBud Body Crack Behind Changer |
Chris Bauer
From:
Nashville, TN USA
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Posted 8 Mar 2015 5:23 pm |
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I'm looking at a Pro II with a crack behind the changer. It seems like I read about these pretty regularly but have no idea how much of a problem that is or can become.
Any easy way to tell if it's likely cosmetic versus something potentially significant?
If it's significant, what are the possible fixes/costs?
Thanks! |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 8 Mar 2015 5:49 pm
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Since the string tension is carried by the changer housing bolts, the crack isn't bearing stress. I wouldn't worry about it much.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Darvin Willhoite
From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
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Posted 8 Mar 2015 6:27 pm
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One of the Emmons P/P's I used to own had two cracks from the changer to the end plate that had been repaired. It didn't hurt the tone any.
_________________
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro. |
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Damir Besic
From:
Nashville,TN.
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Posted 8 Mar 2015 9:16 pm Re: ShoBud Body Crack Behind Changer
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| Chris Bauer wrote: |
I'm looking at a Pro II with a crack behind the changer. It seems like I read about these pretty regularly but have no idea how much of a problem that is or can become.
Any easy way to tell if it's likely cosmetic versus something potentially significant?
If it's significant, what are the possible fixes/costs?
Thanks! |
often those old Sho~Buds would have that little crack between the changer and end plate, it does not affect tone or playability of the instrument, I wouldn't worry about it
damir
_________________
www.steelguitarsonline.com |
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Tom Gorr
From:
Three Hills, Alberta
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Posted 8 Mar 2015 9:17 pm
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Should sound better now the wood is now free of its shrinkage stresses.
Half kidding half not kidding. |
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Dan Burnham
From:
Greenfield, Tennessee
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Posted 9 Mar 2015 6:22 am How to fix
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Many years ago I had a Shobud with the same problem. Duane Marrs fixed it no problem. So here is what he did:
1. Took a drill bit about the size of a wood match.
2. Drilled out the hole.
3. took a small dow rod or you could use a match.
4. put wood glue in the hole and put the wood rod in.
5. After it dried was good as new and didn't affect the sound at all.
Duane told me he had done this on several Shobuds and it worked everytime.
Hope this helps,
Dan
_________________
BMI S12 Zane Beck's Tuning
www.danburnham.com |
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Dave Diehl
From:
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
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Posted 9 Mar 2015 6:34 am
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| Every Bolt-on Emmons Push Pull I've ever seen has had a crack between the changer and the endplate. But it's never affected them in any way. It's just the body's way of relieving a stress. You're most likely better off just leaving it alone. |
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Rick Myrland
From:
New Orleans
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Posted 9 Mar 2015 7:58 am Re: How to fix
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| Dan Burnham wrote: |
Many years ago I had a Shobud with the same problem. Duane Marrs fixed it no problem. So here is what he did:
1. Took a drill bit about the size of a wood match.
2. Drilled out the hole.
3. took a small dow rod or you could use a match.
4. put wood glue in the hole and put the wood rod in.
5. After it dried was good as new and didn't affect the sound at all.
Duane told me he had done this on several Shobuds and it worked everytime.
Hope this helps,
Dan |
Where did he drill it? From the end, horizontally "thru" the crack, or did he pick a random place in the crack in drill vertically?
_________________
Mullen G2; Fender Tone Master Twin Reverb; Goodrich L-120 |
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Bob Knetzger
From:
Kirkland, WA USA
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Posted 9 Mar 2015 8:43 am
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My maple Carter has the same kid of crack behind the changer axle through to the endplate. Seems like a lot of Carters and ShoBuds have them.
I'm told these are "tone cracks." |
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chris ivey
From:
california (deceased)
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Posted 9 Mar 2015 11:06 am
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hi chris. just posting cause i miss you!
my wood emmons', and maybe my old sho-bud, have/had these,
i call them 'tone cracks'. all good sounding steels have them. i wouldn't worry. just a cosmetic issue.
of course, if you want to worry cosmetically you can.
any good psychologist would. |
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Russ Wever
From:
Kansas City
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Posted 9 Mar 2015 12:13 pm Re: How to fix
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| Dan Burnham wrote: |
. . .
1. Took a drill bit about the size of a wood match.
2. Drilled out the hole.
3. . . . |
What hole?
The OP's question
is about a crack!
~Rw
_________________
www.russface
www.russguru |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 9 Mar 2015 1:24 pm
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| Bob Knetzger wrote: |
I'm told these are "tone cracks." |
Nope, they're shrinkage cracks, plain and simple. |
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Dick Sexton
From:
Greenville, Ohio
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Posted 9 Mar 2015 2:59 pm It's cabinet work.
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MARRS method...
Take off the end plate.
Look at the Top Board from the END.
Drill into the crack centered on the board(X), FROM THE END. Start with a new(sharp) wood drill bit no bigger then 1/8". I would take it up to 1/4" a little at a time, one drill bit at a time. Go slow!!!
| Tab: |
________________Crack________________
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Changer End X TOP PLANK "FROM THE END"
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__________________/__________________
________________Crack________________
/
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Changer End o TOP PLANK "FROM THE END"
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__________________/__________________
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Once it looks like this, o=1/4", insert a 1/4 dowel with glue on it. (DON'T FORCE ANYTHING)When glue is dry, cut excess dowel off and reinstall end plate.
If you don't think you can do it... You can't! Take it to a reputable cabinet shop. It is easy, but also easy to screw up. Finish has to be protected from glue. I use wax/paraffin.
Last edited by Dick Sexton on 12 Mar 2015 5:07 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Steve Pawlak
From:
Arizona, USA
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Posted 9 Mar 2015 3:16 pm
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| I have a noticeable space between the changer end plate and the body wood on my Pro I. Would this come from the wood shrinking also |
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chris ivey
From:
california (deceased)
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Posted 9 Mar 2015 4:06 pm
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| Donny Hinson wrote: |
| Bob Knetzger wrote: |
I'm told these are "tone cracks." |
Nope, they're shrinkage cracks, plain and simple. |
no donnie, you're missing the point. you 'have to' have these cracks for your steel to sound good! |
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Dan Robinson
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 9 Mar 2015 5:22 pm
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I'll throw in with Bob K. and Chris I. Sympathetic crackations are make for good tone-vibe.
Don't believe it? Tommy Emannuel has had some guitar cracks. And Tommy is a tone monster who has "the touch!" Check it out: http://guitarinternational.com/2010/01/13/tommy-emmanuel-interview-2009/
But seriously, Chris... so long as it's not getting bigger, it's probably nothing to worry about. |
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Micky Byrne
From:
United Kingdom (deceased)
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Posted 10 Mar 2015 3:30 am
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Chris...if you want to send me your e'mail address, I'll show you before and after pictures of my Sho-Bud universal.....Burnt in a house fire and restored. It will take more than a crack to cause a Sho-Bud any problems LOL  ....she still plays amazeingly.
Micky "scars" Byrne U.K. |
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Dan Burnham
From:
Greenfield, Tennessee
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Posted 10 Mar 2015 5:33 pm Sorry Guys
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Sorry Guys,
I didn't give more explanation. What Dick said is exactly what Duane did. That will work,
Dan
_________________
BMI S12 Zane Beck's Tuning
www.danburnham.com |
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Dick Sexton
From:
Greenville, Ohio
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Posted 10 Mar 2015 5:56 pm Crack repair...
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At Dan... 
Amazing how much glue surface there is on 1/4 in dowel. Old wood workers trick... |
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Henry Matthews
From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
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Posted 10 Mar 2015 6:47 pm
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Dick, you lost me on your drawing. Looks to me like that would widen the crack by drilling a hole and putting a dowel pin in. Is it just to keep from cracking further? I'm totally lost on your explanation . 
_________________
Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
Last edited by Henry Matthews on 11 Mar 2015 7:52 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Dick Sexton
From:
Greenville, Ohio
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Posted 11 Mar 2015 4:23 am Expiration?
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| Henry, Your absolutely right... Poor drawing and explanation. |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 11 Mar 2015 3:22 pm
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| Dan Robinson wrote: |
I'll throw in with Bob K. and Chris I. Sympathetic crackations are make for good tone-vibe.
Don't believe it? Tommy Emannuel has had some guitar cracks. |
A coal barge is not a canoe.
A pedal steel is not an acoustic guitar.
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chris ivey
From:
california (deceased)
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Posted 11 Mar 2015 3:29 pm
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| therefore, a pedal steel is a coal barge. |
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Ron Pruter
From:
Arizona, USA
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Posted 11 Mar 2015 5:03 pm
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Doesn't the dowel rod repair shown above still look BAD??RP
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112. |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 11 Mar 2015 5:09 pm
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| chris ivey wrote: |
hi chris. just posting cause i miss you!
my wood emmons', and maybe my old sho-bud, have/had these,
i call them 'tone cracks'. all good sounding steels have them. i wouldn't worry. just a cosmetic issue.
of course, if you want to worry cosmetically you can.
any good psychologist would. |
I worried about that crack in Chris' Emmons before I sold it too. It never worsened or posed any problems. In fact, I wish I had never parted with that tone monster |
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