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Topic: Patch cables for patch-baying at the moon |
David Mason
From:
Cambridge, MD, USA
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Posted 30 Nov 2014 5:30 pm |
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I am looking for the cheapest way possible to get or make the highest-quality imaginable patch cords for hooking up the semi-permanent connections on a 1/4" 24-banger Neutrik patch bay. I don't need big robust roll-over-with-mixer-cart 6mm (.255") or larger tactical-armored stuff, 4mm (.155") is fine, and I'm quite able to solder. (I'd like to find a hefty roll of .155" cable anyway {50 ft.}, but not at George L's price!) Two feet, maybe a few pair of three footers, will be the longest run and, happily, extensive shielding from each cable itself is not a big requirement. I know that "cheapest way possible" and "highest-quality imaginable" are somewhat combative bedfellows, conceptwise.... I don't plan to spend more than a dollar a foot for cable, if that's any indication of price range.
I have been told that there is now actually a quite functional brand of the molded cable packs - there are people selling expensive guitar cords with the molded-in Neutrik type connectors - and this IS for some basic, mostly non-flex, non-dicked-with use. But I'm not sure which is which? When you start looking at pricing 20-24 cords, yikes! |
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Scott Duckworth
From:
Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
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Posted 30 Nov 2014 7:14 pm
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Look at http://www.partsexpress.com. They have cable in bulk and connectors.
_________________
Amateur Radio Operator NA4IT (Extra)
http://www.qsl.net/na4it
I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus! |
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Godfrey Arthur
From:
3rd Rock
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Posted 9 Dec 2014 12:12 pm
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There is no cheap way to make patch cords if you want to keep the integrity of the reason you have a patch bay.
The jacks themselves should fit properly as not all are created equal.
The cheap jacks may not mate with the Neutrik bay inputs. May be loose or the tip may be too long. If you are dealing with TRS jacks and inputs, you'll want that the plug lines up with the terminals in the bay.
So you saved on the jacks, but do they make a snug and proper fit?
The cheapest I would go with is Hosa:
http://hosatech.com/product/css-800-od5/
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/CSS890
After that, if you get the individual jacks, like Switchcraft, you will not want to cheap out on cable while using a quality TRS jack. And Neutrik jacks are more expensive.
George L cable is the not the right cable for a patch cord. It's too thin and doesn't fit a normal TRS quality jack. It was made for its own solder-less jacks. You want something more pliable and resistant to rough treatment.
Putting together a studio patch bay is an investment. You went Neutrik 1/4" because the TT patchbays are even more expensive.
I have several banks of Neutrik 1/4" patchbays. I bought boxes of Switchcraft TRS 1/4" jacks and Canare L-4E6S cable in red.
http://www.canare.com/ProductItemDisplay.aspx?productItemID=53
But it wasn't cheap!
Markertek sells 0.54 a foot:
http://www.markertek.com/product/l-4e6s-bk/canare-l-4e6s-star-quad-microphone-cable-by-the-foot-black
You saved on the bay, now for the cables, it's time to pay.
_________________
ShoBud The Pro 1
YES it's my REAL NAME!
Ezekiel 33:7
Last edited by Godfrey Arthur on 9 Dec 2014 2:05 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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David Mason
From:
Cambridge, MD, USA
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Posted 9 Dec 2014 1:52 pm
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It's a weird world. Everyone agrees that 1/4" TS phone jacks are a real dumb way to do things, but they're often the ONLY thing components have in common! It's like all the dozen times some manufacturers have made a humbucking pickup with either three, or four, adjustment screws so you can control the tilt without having to cram stuff under it. No way, uh-uh, that's not the way we DO it. ~sigh~ incompatable....
I found some great two-conductor, Belden 8218 on Ebay for a good price, and will probably hook up a mix of Lawrence and G&L ends, maybe even some RCA inter-connects depending on frequency of use. I definitely have to ease into it, mentally and financially. |
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Godfrey Arthur
From:
3rd Rock
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Posted 9 Dec 2014 2:10 pm
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| David Mason wrote: |
It's a weird world. Everyone agrees that 1/4" TS phone jacks are a real dumb way to do things, but they're often the ONLY thing components have in common! It's like all the dozen times some manufacturers have made a humbucking pickup with either three, or four, adjustment screws so you can control the tilt without having to cram stuff under it. No way, uh-uh, that's not the way we DO it. ~sigh~ incompatable....
I found some great two-conductor, Belden 8218 on Ebay for a good price, and will probably hook up a mix of Lawrence and G&L ends, maybe even some RCA inter-connects depending on frequency of use. I definitely have to ease into it, mentally and financially. |
Isn't that Belden 8218, coax cable?
The only reason to go TT is if you want to save space of more cables on a bay. Think, you plug everything else in with either 1/4" or XLR so why does TT have to be the only way?
Star quad wiring produces a better sonic stage. Two wires to each connection and a ground.
_________________
ShoBud The Pro 1
YES it's my REAL NAME!
Ezekiel 33:7 |
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David Mason
From:
Cambridge, MD, USA
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Posted 9 Dec 2014 2:31 pm
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| The rack units and other processors and the recorder I want to hook up are all 1/4" TS connected. Is there an advantage to upgrading just the cabling? I am lucky in that I don't have a wobbly power source or much in the way of interference, even my curly fluorescent bulbs aren't causing a problem. I have seen any number of people use George L's cable, but solder it to regular plugs, you can slip a bit of tubing over it to make the clamp hold. The Belden 8218 IS the wire that George L started with and Lawrence still uses, though the colors of George's stuff makes me think he's switched to some similar Canare or Mogami product. I certainly don't know much about this part of things. |
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Godfrey Arthur
From:
3rd Rock
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Posted 9 Dec 2014 2:56 pm
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| David Mason wrote: |
| The rack units and other processors and the recorder I want to hook up are all 1/4" TS connected. Is there an advantage to upgrading just the cabling? I am lucky in that I don't have a wobbly power source or much in the way of interference, even my curly fluorescent bulbs aren't causing a problem. I have seen any number of people use George L's cable, but solder it to regular plugs, you can slip a bit of tubing over it to make the clamp hold. The Belden 8218 IS the wire that George L started with and Lawrence still uses, though the colors of George's stuff makes me think he's switched to some similar Canare or Mogami product. I certainly don't know much about this part of things. |
You have a TRS bay and making mono or 2 conductor patch cords.
I use George L cables for short 6 inch patch cords between stompbox effects and as connects from guitar into whatever of 6 and 10 foot. I used Switchcraft 1/4" plugs and soldered the G-L cables. I don't trust those solder-less jobbies. Fender used to supply that type connector as case candy and eventually the connectors would get moody and fail on the gig. Then trying to repair it is a hit and miss snip of the cable and hope the connection is made as you try and hit the sweet spot of hot and ground.
I find coax (George L) hard to deal with handling it. Too easy to kink if you are in a hurry. You have to be aware of where the cable is and where it's going, in order to not damage it. I like the sound out of it but it's not the end-all. It's nice to have different cord brands not just one. Even cheap cable has a tone but it may not be for serious connections. And yes I can hear sonic differences in cabling.
If you're making a bay as a once-set, no-touch system then I guess the coax would be okay. But if it's going to be used as a regular patch bay with constant plug and unplug, I would opt for something that can take that type of abuse and flex. And then if you're using those snip and insert with a set screw type plugs, you're asking for trouble if you're going to be doing a lot of patching. If you're doing a studio to make money on a client you will need back up patch cords. They go out like murphy's law.
As mentioned, the jack and the cable work together. It depends on for what you're building your studio. If it's personal demo/practice only then you can get by with anything. I would go with the Hosa ready-mades. But something more serious, a chain is as strong as its weakest link.
_________________
ShoBud The Pro 1
YES it's my REAL NAME!
Ezekiel 33:7 |
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