1977 Sho~Bud changer questions

John Miller · From: Maine, USA

Hi folks,
I'm going through a Pro-1 and have several questions on the changer that I was hoping somebody could answer.

The first two pics shows that one of the cast levers has been cut and filed. I don't remember those eyelets on the cast pieces even hooking up to anything. Whats going on here?

Next, all the raise levers rotate very freely about the cast lever except for one, it binds ... not like its bent, more like its new and not broken in. I guess I just need to disassemble and figure out why. Just looking for any nuggets of knowledge. Following pic illustrates which lever is binding.

Next pic shows axle shaft, looks to me it was serviced with a nail. Not factory, correct? Suggestions on proper removal? Should I even bother? (wrt previous issue)

This pic poorly shows string indentations on the tops of the lever. I imagine this is common.

Lastly, what is the recommended lubricant for this as I go about cleaning it up. Any tidbits of knowledge would be appreciated.

Regards,
John
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'77 Sho~Bud Pro 1
'03 La Garritt Super Ten

Brint Hannay · From: Maryland, USA

On your first question, I believe the 2nd string eyelet was cut off to permit the string to lower a whole step--an alteration that was suggested by Winnie Winston in an article in the late lamented Steel Guitarist magazine.

The eyelet is intended as the attachment point for a raise helper spring (to help make raises easier). The elbow in the arm the eyelet is on can hit the rivet in the finger assembly (you can see how this would happen in your axle-view pic), preventing the finger from having enough room to lower far enough. Since a raise helper spring is non-essential, and in particular since usual copedents in the Sho-Bud era didn't raise the 2nd string anyway, cutting off the eyelet is a normal correction for a design flaw that affects some Buds.

I can't help you with your other questions.

Tony Prior · From: Charlotte NC

for cleaning and lube, remove the axle and each finger . Clean each finger independently..lay them out so you put them back in the same place although not really necessary except for the one with the cut off.

You are so close, go the distance. Inspect each finger for worn rivets etc..make sure they move freely..clean and perhaps burnish each finger ( wire brush or wheel) NOT THE TOP OF THE FINGER WHERE THE STRING SITS, I'M TALKING IN THE RIVET AREA... , then just use a simple 3 in 1 oil lightly. Don't put new oil on top of old oil...all it does is sit on top of the old oil...

Many times when one finger rivet is worn and perhaps binding, folks pulled the changer apart and swapped that finger with another that was not worn...

The Steel will thank you for this !
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Emmons L-II , Fender Telecasters, B-Benders , Eastman Mandolin ,
Pro Tools 12 on WIN 7 !
jobless- but not homeless- now retired 9 years

CURRENT MUSIC TRACKS AT > https://tprior2241.wixsite.com/website

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I had to get my fingers bored out (did YOU know that the 12 strings used a bigger axle? I didn't and I don't think James did til last year), and the machine shop that did it (lacking a drill press, let alone one with clamps, I was NOT about to do the job myself) re-peened the loose rivets for me (they said it only added about ten minutes to my bill). Given that I'd never put it together beforehand, I can't comment on improvement, but I would have to think it works better without wobble.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

John Miller · From: Maine, USA

Every time I visit the forum, I learn something. Thanks for the feedback folks.
_________________
'77 Sho~Bud Pro 1
'03 La Garritt Super Ten

John Miller · From: Maine, USA

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