MICA repair ??

Kevin Raymer · From: Chalybeate, Kentucky, USA

I've got a late model Derby D10 that has a break in the Back apron
Mica .

The wood is un damaged.

Don't know how it got there, was there when I traded for it.

How hard would it be for me to replace that piece of mica ??

It's black.

Where could I get some mica ??

How does one cut Mica ??

What is it attached with ??

Etc... Etc...

Thanks,
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Kevin Raymer
Zum / Knaggs / Breedlove
Fractal Audio

John Swain · From: Winchester, Va

Kevin, mica is made in two thicknesses( horizontal grade and thinner vertical grade). There are various finishes of black( flat gloss etc). That said you can remove the old piece with lacquer thinners and thin putty knives. I'd stop a few cabinet shops and see if you can get a few scraps. Glue it on with contact cement then trim with a flush cutting router bit or a flat file. Not for the uninitiated! JS

David Higginbotham · From: Lake Charles, Louisiana, USA

For a piece that small you may want to check with local cabinet shops for scraps. Removing the piece would be best with a heat gun and putty knife but use cautiously to not melt the glue on the nearby pieces. Use contact cement and a roller to apply the new piece and a router to trim it out.

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

You can probably pay the cabinet shop a few buck to put it on for you, and get it done right.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 54 years and still counting.

Jason Putnam · From: Tennessee, USA

Cut it on a table saw. Just keep it flat. Be careful because if it gets crooked it will sling it at you and that's no fun!! I would cut it where it hangs over the bottom and edges. Glue on with good contact cement. Route the bottom and ends with trim bit. Use a file on the top edge. If you do have to route the top edge, be sure to coat the top with carnauba wax to keep the router but from scarring the top mica!!
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1967 Emmons Bolt On, 1995 Mullen PRP 3x5,Nashville 112, JOYO Digital Delay, Goodrich Volume Pedal, Livesteel Strings

Jerry Roller · From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA

Chances are the mica is in behind the endplate wraparounds. That is by far the greatest obstacle.
Obtaining the piece of mica would be pretty easy. If it came down to it I could send you a piece of gloss mica. I would check into the endplate problem first. Weldwood contact cement would do the job fine.
Jerry
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http://www.littleoprey.org/

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

Jason Putnam · From: Tennessee, USA

Thats true. Not all people have those kind of tools, but access shouldn't be a problem. I can think of 3 people I know right off the top of my head that have a table saw. But if you don't, you can also score it with a razor knife and strait edge and break it. Its just a lot easier to cut it on a table saw. I used to work part time at a cabinet shop and have laminated a lot of cabinets. Just offering advice. Its not going to be an easy job. You will have to take the end plates off to do it correctly.
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1967 Emmons Bolt On, 1995 Mullen PRP 3x5,Nashville 112, JOYO Digital Delay, Goodrich Volume Pedal, Livesteel Strings

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Given how easy it is to screw up for those not used to working with it (and it chips easily).
I like Sinkler's idea: have a local cabinet shop do it.
Taking off the endplates shouldn't be difficult.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Jerry Roller · From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA

Kevin, I hope this helps. Remove the keyhead end plate. Use heatgun to lift the old mica starting at the keyhead end. You are most likely going to have to remove the changer endplate also but before doing so there is a slight chance it is not tight against the mica. If you can manage to remove the mica from under that endplate it will save you a lot of work. Let me say that doing this job without removing both endplates can sometimes be done by someone with experience but a long shot for someone who is not. Even if the endplate is not tight against the mica there is a lot of prefitting of the new mica required before sticking it down. If there is excess adhesive on the apron you need to clean it up with lacquer thinner so the new mica can lay flat. Mainly you need to get any lumps of adhesive off. A thin layer is OK. You need to cut a piece of mica with a straight clean edge. I use a table saw with the blade turned around backwards to avoid chipping. Next you need a sanding block or file to fit the edge where it meets the bottom deck mica overhang. It is doubtful that that line is perfectly straight on any guitar. Leave the new mica a little wider than the apron. After you have the new mica fitted and glued down you need a straight flute router bit with a guide bearing to trim the bottom flush with the apron. If you managed to do the job without removing the changer end plate you will have to trim that area with the file. You can do a better job if you remove both endplates but sometimes you can avoid removing the changer end plate which is a rather major project.
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http://www.littleoprey.org/

David Higginbotham · From: Lake Charles, Louisiana, USA

As always, Jerry Roller gave the best and most detailed advice! Jerry is a master of many crafts and has helped many of us here on the forum and I include myself as one of the fortunate ones he has helped on more than one occasion.

If you take your time and follow Jerry's instructions I think you will be fine. If not, I'm sure you can find someone to take care of the issue at a very reasonable expense.
Dave

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