Throttle/Accelerator Cables

Alan Brookes · From: Brummy living in Southern California

Yes, this IS in the right category, Pedal Steel.

I'm thinking of building a pedal steel using cable within tube, the sort of cables used for automobile, motorcycle, tractors for accelerator cables, brake cables and clutch cables, also for camera shutter release cables. The problem is, before I buy any I need some advice. You see, I know nothing about what is available.

[1] Do cables for brakes and throttles have different thicknesses, and different end fittings?

[2] What sort of cable takes the most tension? I don't want them breaking when I push the pedal.

[3] Do cables for motorcycles, automobiles, trucks and tractors differ in thickness and end fittings?

[4] What do the fittings on the ends of the cables look like? I'm going to need to attach the cables to the pedals at one end and the mechanism at the other.

[5] Which cables would be the right sort of length for a pedal steel? Would motorcycle cables be too short, or automobile cables too long?

I realise that not everyone would want a pedal steel worked by cable within tube, so please limit responses to the questions, not advice to not undertake the project. Winking

And please don't confuse this topic with cable-operated Fenders, which use a totally different principle. Winking

I shall be grateful for any advice I can get. I'm sure there are some automobile mechanics and bikers out there in the Forum.

Kevin Raymer · From: Chalybeate, Kentucky, USA

I think the cables that they use for motor cycle brakes would be strong enough.

As I recall they have molded ends on them that resemble lead bullets.

Bicycle brake cables might work too.

I'd go around to repair shops or junk yards and see if they had some old ones you could get cheap to experiment with.

I think attaching them to the changer and then tuning the pedals will be one of your biggest challenges.

Good luck.
_________________
Kevin Raymer
Zum / Knaggs / Breedlove
Fractal Audio

Stan Schober · From: Cahokia, Illinois, USA

I think Bill Hankey may be the leading expert on this. Smile

I could be wrong, but I believe his main instrument is cable actuated.
_________________
Emmons S-8 P/P,DeArmond 40. Slowly drifting back towards sanity.

richard burton · From: Britain

The first 3 or 4 pedal steels that I made were cable operated, using bicycle back brake cables (called Bowden Cables)

The beauty of using Bowden cables is that they can be routed to anywhere under the steel, so you can have your pedals and levers wherever you like, and simply route the cable to it.

The nipple end of the inner cable was snug in the changer finger, whilst the other end was clamped to the pedal/lever bell-crank.

The following pictures show one of my early steels, alas my brother has had it in his garage for 25 years, in its box and totally neglected for all that time, so there is considerable rust on the mechanism, but you can still see the cable system.

I gigged this steel extensively with no problems whatsoever, as the cables are not coming under the extreme conditions they would normally experience on a bicycle.

Don Griffiths · From: Steelville, MO

I think Richard is on the right track. You would be surprised how strong bicycle brake cables are. I have never broken a bicycle cable in my lifetime of Mountainbiking down mountains.
Yes brake cables are usually a heavier gauge. Some of the higher end mountain bike cables are lined with Teflon and incredibly smooth and precise.
Most of them simply clamp up in a nut and bolt with a hole in it on one end. The brake cables have the flat cylinder cast on to the other end which would slide right in to the right size hole in a crank and still have some clearance with other cranks.The better cables are usually wrapped with more but smaller gauge strands which allows them to bend more smoothly and around tighter corners.
Most motorcycle, and even go kart cables I've worked with seem way too heavy for a pedal steel.
My mountain bike brake cables do stretch a little over time, I'm thinking though at rate close to the same rate as a new set of guitar strings and will need a tweak shortly after they are new.Hope you are only thinking of putting pull tension on them. Like lawn mower throttle cables,they pull ok but don't push worth a darn even though they do push good enough to operate the derailleurs and gears on bikes.
The cable housings usually come long so you can cut them to length easily. I'll go check on the standard length in my parts out in the tin shed after I'm off here( and I'm not talking about the internet)
. Having worked with stainless aircraft cable for years, I sure this would be the ultimate but expensive. 3/32" diameter would be plenty strong for anything you would need to pull on a Pedal steel if you are an efficient engineer.
I'd love to stop and see some of your home builds sometime when I'm in The BayArea.
Good luck on you next instrument.
Forum Index > Electronics Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic
_________________
Shobud Pro1,BMI U12, Santa Cruz F, PRS Standard, Fender Twin Reverb, ‘53 000-28

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Don, you could release a pull-release with them, though. That's not pushing, it's relaxing a pull
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Forum Index > Pedal Steel		Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic

All times are GMT - 8 Hours	Jump to: