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Author Topic:  Changing Strings
Buck Dilly

 

From:
Branchville, NJ, USA * R.I.P.
Post  Posted 17 Dec 2003 2:06 pm    
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Everytime I change strings I end up cursing, stabbing myself, and hating the task. I will put it off whenever possible. The problem I experienced was having the ball end come off while trying to get the other end strung up. I considered the solution to be using rubber wedges to hold the strings on but did not actually try it until today. I had some piano tuner string dampers around that my father had given me. I never used them to tune a piano, but they work great to hold the ball end on. Works like a charm. They are about 2 1/2" long by 1/2" wide, with a slender taper. My frustration was greatly reduced.

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Lacquer Emmons PP,D-10, 9+9, Nationals, Dobro-8, Dan-O's, '70 ES 340, Scofield-Ibanez ES, Tube Amps. "Blue Sparks From Hell", "Kings in Disguise".

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Ad Kersten


From:
Beek en Donk, The Netherlands
Post  Posted 17 Dec 2003 2:12 pm    
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I guess we have all been there, Buck!

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Zumsteel S12U

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Bobby Bowman

 

From:
Cypress, Texas, USA, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 17 Dec 2003 2:28 pm    
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Even with all the help and whatever, It's still one of my most dis-liked chores. It's in the same league with polishing aluminum, which I detest.
And though our associated woes with the pedal steel guitar may be many, I still love it more than anything else with but a few exceptions. !
BB


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If you play 'em, play 'em good!
If you build 'em, build 'em good!

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Gene Jones

 

From:
Oklahoma City, OK USA, (deceased)
Post  Posted 17 Dec 2003 2:43 pm    
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Buck, for my solution to the string changing problem go to this URL and scroll down to the bottom of the page.....
http://genejones.bizland.com/guitars_etc.htm

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C Dixon

 

From:
Duluth, GA USA
Post  Posted 17 Dec 2003 2:44 pm    
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After removing the old strings, wind the keys until all the holes are parallel with the top of the guitar:

1. Take out a new first string. Hook the ball end on the pin (at the changer) and stretch it tight all the way over the nut roller and past the key post by about the space of 3 or 4 keys.

2. Cut it off at this point with a pair of side cutters.

3. Remove the string and bend a hook on the end of the string about 3/4" long with a pair of long nose pliers. Then slide this hook in the hole in the key from the left side of the hole, and over the top of the key.

4. While holding high vertical tension on the string (with your left hand), keeping the hook in the hole in the keyhead; stretch it back and put the ball end on the pin with your right hand.

5. While holding the string up and taught with the left hand, reach over with your right hand and begin to wind the key until the string comes closer and closer to being parallel to the fretboard. (NOTE: a string winder IS a blessing here).

6. Note three things as the string becomes taught:

A. Make sure the string ends up in the middle of the changer finger.

B. Make sure the other end of the string falls into the groove in the nut roller.

C. Make sure the winds cause the string to end up as close as possible to straight all the way from the roller nut to the keypost. IE, NO bend (front to back) in the string as it goes over the roller. This IS important.

7. Exchange hands as you pick the string while you bring the string up to pitch.

Repeat for all successive strings with one exception. Reduce the "3 to 4 inch key separation distance" as you install ever larger gauge strings.

I fought replacing strings for over 40 yrs until a fellow steel player showed me this. I only wish I had known about it 40 yrs sooner.

Try it, it may not make you love to change strings but it sure takes much of the drudgery out of it.

May Jesus bless you in your quests,

carl
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David Mason


From:
Cambridge, MD, USA
Post  Posted 18 Dec 2003 9:55 am    
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I do exactly what Carter tells me to, and it's worked fine so far: http://www.steelguitarinfo.com/strings/changeslideshow/scindex.html
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Bob Metzger

 

From:
Waltham (Boston), MA, USA
Post  Posted 18 Dec 2003 11:09 am    
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If I had a nickel for every time I drew blood from a guitar string..... but that still beats playing with a married couple who are the bandleaders !
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Jack Francis

 

From:
Queen Creek, Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 18 Dec 2003 11:15 am    
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to Bob M....

"If I had a nickel for every time I drew blood from a guitar string..... but that still beats playing with a married couple who are the bandleaders !"

Done both...AMEN!!

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David Friedlander

 

From:
New York, New York, USA
Post  Posted 18 Dec 2003 11:51 am    
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GET A KEYLESS!
It takes less than half the time to change the strings.

Another reall worry- I have an older Marlen- the string ball goes over a peg - most new guitars have an indention that holds the string ball.
That little peg- if it breaks- can ruin the entire guitar.
The fear of this adds to the tension at string chage time..

How often do you guys change the strings?
I change them once every 10 years- if they need it or not.
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Pat Burns

 

From:
Branchville, N.J. USA
Post  Posted 18 Dec 2003 12:07 pm    
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...hey, Buck, you should've said something sooner...for the past few years I've been using a piece of foam pipe insulation for 1/2 inch pipe to hold the ball end on until I can get the string wound on...I just tore off a section of insulation about 3 inches long, and ripped it in half long ways...it fits just right behind the changer to hold the string on...I keep a piece in my pack seat at all times..

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Ron Randall

 

From:
Dallas, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 18 Dec 2003 12:17 pm    
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Hi Gene!

Don't have to worry on your T8 Fender Custom!

Ron
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Gino Iorfida

 

From:
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 18 Dec 2003 2:25 pm    
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I sorta use the idea that Gene has mentioned, however, i never took the time to cut the doro stop down. Works great.

Another trick I found, back when I played a MSA, was that thin 'craft foam' (like 1/24" thick, an 8.5 x 11 sheet costs like 35cents at walmart), and cut a piece to sit behind the changer, Don't remember how much it helped when changing strings, however, if a string broke (or should I say WHEN the .011 string broke , it kept the ball end from falling into the changer.... Ever since I went to a push pull, i dont seem to have that problem (strings do break, however, the more open design doesnt attract the broken string ends for some reason)
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Gene Jones

 

From:
Oklahoma City, OK USA, (deceased)
Post  Posted 18 Dec 2003 4:22 pm    
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Yes Ron, my little invention would be worthless for the T-3 Custom...it shouldn't need new strings anyway for another two or three years!
www.genejones.com
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Buck Dilly

 

From:
Branchville, NJ, USA * R.I.P.
Post  Posted 19 Dec 2003 9:33 am    
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Try the piano tuners rubber wedges. They are ideal. http://www.balaams-ass.com/piano/toolpart.htm

[This message was edited by Buck Dilly on 19 December 2003 at 09:37 AM.]

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David L. Donald


From:
Koh Samui Island, Thailand
Post  Posted 19 Dec 2003 12:08 pm    
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I agree the piano tuner dampers are a great idea.

I also agree married couple band leaders are the pits.
I played in a country band with one couple and their constant companions ;
a 1/5 of JnB and a shoebox filled with song chords on file cards.
She sang Baritone to Alto, he sang, when standing... most of the time.

Some times the card would get to you BEFORE they started the intro.

Never more, never more, said the raven.

[This message was edited by David L. Donald on 19 December 2003 at 12:08 PM.]

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Gene Jones

 

From:
Oklahoma City, OK USA, (deceased)
Post  Posted 19 Dec 2003 2:15 pm    
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....shoebox filled with song chords on file cards....

David that would have been a blessing! My experience has been that the vocalist, the guitar player, and anyone else who stands while playing, will have a conference deciding what song is next, what key, etc, and then at the last second, turn to the steel player and say: "Kick off _____"!...and then everyone stands there and looks at you while you try desperately to remember the song, compose an intro, "guess" the tempo, and do an intro without too much "dead air"!

Much of my gray hair comes from that!

www.genejones.com
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Bob Carlson

 

From:
Surprise AZ.
Post  Posted 19 Dec 2003 3:37 pm    
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I use a 7.2 volt cordless Black and Decker drill with a "Zap It" in it. Thats a plactic thing that fits over the peg like the crank does. It's two speed, 300 rpm and 600 rpm. You can buy a "Zap It" from Musician's Friend or Scotty. The drill is used for a leader at all hardware stores. The regular price is $29.95 but buy it when it's on sale for $19.95. The battery is built in and they last a couple of years.

600 rpm is just right for removing strings and 300 rpm works great for installing them. I have my tuner on and can bring it up to real close.

I have a couple bigger cordless drills, but they go to fast. GOT to be 7.2 or 7.5 volt.

I do it a little differant than Carl in that I put the hole back a bit more than half way between up and flat. Then I put the string in the hole, 1/4" extra, and pull on it with it hooked and wedged on the changer, and it will make that bend in the string.

It still don't make you look forward to changing strings...but it helps.

Bob
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Joe Finley

 

From:
Ozark Arkansas USA
Post  Posted 23 Dec 2003 1:24 pm    
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Buck, even in the shobud factory putting on strings can be fun. Carl's idea is close to what I used. The trick would be gettin it started in the key, then holding it with the left hand high up with pressure. I used an air drill in the right hand to wind the strings. I only got about 5 or ten minutes to put on the strings on one neck. I only got 10 minutes to adjust and tune before packing.
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Bill Moore


From:
Manchester, Michigan
Post  Posted 23 Dec 2003 4:30 pm    
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I think Carl has got it figured out. I do it just about the same way, except that I've found that bending a bit of a curve just in front of the ball end, will help it stay attached to the pin as it's tightened.
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