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Author Topic:  Replacing Carter Dog Bones
Brian Henry

 

Post  Posted 2 May 2014 10:10 am    
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I have decided to replace the old carter dog bones with these. My question is do I need to cut the loop of the rod or can ijust insert the loop end of the into this new device? Many thanks
Brian




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Brian Henry

 

Post  Posted 2 May 2014 10:22 am    
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Would this work




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Joe Naylor


From:
Avondale, Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 2 May 2014 11:25 am     Carter parts
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Steel Guitar of Canada Al Brisco will fix you up with Carter parts.

Joe Naylor
www.steelseat.com
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 2 May 2014 12:37 pm    
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I just bought 6 of those from Al Brisco. I am going to put them in place of the "dog bones" on my A,B & C pedals. Someone had told me that he did exactly as you have them in the pictures.
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Ron Pruter

 

From:
Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 2 May 2014 1:29 pm    
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Seems like it would change your leverage on the cross-shafts., either lengthening or shortening depending on if you go over or under.
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 2 May 2014 2:21 pm    
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It's a very small difference. It shouldn't change that much, if at all. Sure beats replacing those crappy dog bones.
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Jimmy Gibson

 

From:
Cornwall, England
Post  Posted 3 May 2014 12:42 am     Carter Pull Pins
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A few years ago I replaced all the pull pins on my carter with the barrel type you are thinking of using, but I did not hook the pull rods into the new pull pins not a good idea IMHO...

What I did was cut off the hooks on the pull rods make up a few extra pull rods so I could have the same pulling system as the MSA it was very easy to do and a lot easier to change the set up because you did not have to take the nylon tuners off the ends of the pull rods to take a pull rod out.

It worked absolutely great...


Jimmy.
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 3 May 2014 7:46 am    
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With the set screw to hold the rod in place, why do you need the hook?
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 3 May 2014 8:29 am    
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Erv Niehaus wrote:
With the set screw to hold the rod in place, why do you need the hook?


To save yourself the hassle of cutting the hooks off of a stainless rod. Many of us don't have access to the tools to do it. Also, if there is an issue with one not working right, you can always go back to using the dog bone. You can also remove the bell crank an install the barrel and run the straight part through the barrel. That would be a lot more work, but believe me, changing out those broken dog bones is a real bitch. I had one break and the larger part of it got cockeyed in the hole on the bellcrank and I couldn't get it out without removing the bellcrank and really having to work on that sucker. I was determined to get it, but I should have just replaced the bellcrank as I have spares.

My biggest concern is having enough slack in the pull train. But I think there is enough rod after the bend to adjust the slack a little.

I haven't done this to mine yet, but I have tested it on a bellcrank and rod that is not mounted to the guitar (just to see how the rod would fit through the barrel).
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Brian Henry

 

Post  Posted 3 May 2014 12:06 pm    
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Richard I am still debating this - I was messing with a spare rod and found that the loop is brittle and brok off easily. I suppose this could happen when playing. Do you think that a dremmel would be able to cut these off?
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Martin Weenick


From:
Lecanto, FL, USA
Post  Posted 3 May 2014 1:19 pm     Dog Bones
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I cut my rods with a pair of lineman's pliers, (.109 ) rod. A dremel tool will also work. Martin.
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Steven Finley


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 3 May 2014 6:36 pm    
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Brian,what are these little fittings called,what size are they,and what hardware store carries them,thanks
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 3 May 2014 11:18 pm    
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I've personally never have seen these in any hardware store, and I actually looked for them at one time.

Al Brisco calls them a Carter Barrel Nut with Socket Cap Screw.
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Jimmy Gibson

 

From:
Cornwall, England
Post  Posted 4 May 2014 2:06 am    
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I made my own barrels from brass tubing and set screws that I bought from a model accessory shop,I cut them to length tapped the thread and they worked great, and I had loads of spares.

I also bought the 3/32 rod from the same shop.

And a lot cheaper than buying from Carter at the time they were in business,


Jimmy.
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Ned McIntosh


From:
New South Wales, Australia
Post  Posted 4 May 2014 10:17 pm    
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Steven, you won't find these in any hardware store, they are custom-made for the Carter.

Al Brisco is a good source for them. If you're totally desperate you could get a machinist to make some for you but piece-work like that in small numbers is apt to be expensive. (He has to get 3/32" brass-rod, a parting-tool ground to the correct width, then set up the lathe, cut and part-off each one, advance the rod from the chuck to make the next one etc, etc, etc. All that takes time...and time costs money.)

Unless you get 100 or so made they'd likely cost more per unit than buying them ready-made from Al in Canada.
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Jimmy Gibson

 

From:
Cornwall, England
Post  Posted 5 May 2014 4:42 am    
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Ned, please read my last reply i made my own they were very easy to make no need of a lathe or a machinist.

They worked absolute fine.


Jimmy.
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Howard Parker


From:
Maryland
Post  Posted 5 May 2014 7:51 am    
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Jimmy,

Any photos of what you fabricated?

Thanks

h
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Jerry Jones


From:
Franklin, Tenn.
Post  Posted 5 May 2014 8:58 am    
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What is the diameter and length of the part required?
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 5 May 2014 9:56 am    
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The length on the Carter parts is 5/16" and the diameter is 3/16"
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Sonny Jenkins


From:
Texas Masonic Retirement Center,,,Arlington Tx
Post  Posted 5 May 2014 10:07 am    
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A fairly easy fab,,,,,brass rod, electric drill (for a lathe), hacksaw,,,,small jewelers file,,,or two cut-off disc from dremel. The ones I've made are better than original,,,original have square shouldered slot for a round rod,,,leaves all the wear in the center of the shaft,,,mine have the slot rounded the same as the rod,,,more surface to distribute wear.

I don't think the barrels with set screws (with the "hook" inserted in the barrel) would work for me (even though I like them and have used them on other guitars),,in some instances there would not be enough room for the rod to ride over or under the connections on adjacent bell clamps,,,without bending the rod,,,which should not be necessary on a Carter.

Not sure why Carter rods break so easily,,,,I use stainless welding rod, thread it and bend the hook quite easily.
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John Roche


From:
England
Post  Posted 5 May 2014 1:02 pm    
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Richard Sinkler


From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
Post  Posted 5 May 2014 2:18 pm    
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I've never had a rod break, and have never heard of it until the post above. I have extra rods and I will put the hook through one of these and then hold the barrel with vise grips and take a pair of pliers and wrench on the rod and see if it breaks.
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Les Cargill

 

From:
Oklahoma City, Ok, USA
Post  Posted 5 May 2014 2:47 pm    
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If you went to the MSA style rod-bellcrank connectors (I've just called 'em brass barrels ) , you can get new rods made for ... not a lot of money at all from the usual MSA parts guys.

Don't want to quote a figure ( that feels out of school to me ) , but they were surprisingly inexpensive.
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