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Topic: Adjusting B pedal on GFI steel |
Kevin Bergdorf
From:
Kentucky, USA
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Posted 19 Apr 2014 11:53 am |
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| Could anybody help me with how to adjust the B pedal so that it raises strings 3 & 6 a whole step instead of a half step? |
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Richard Sinkler
From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 19 Apr 2014 11:59 am
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You will probably have to increase the pedal travel. You will probably have to change the gauge on that 3rd string. I don't think the regular gauges will tolerate that amount of pull.
Out of curiosity, why do you want to raise both of those to A#? I don't see any practical use for those changes (and by noticing that any others have those changes). You also kill the A & B and B & C pedal combinations.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 54 years and still counting. |
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Kevin Bergdorf
From:
Kentucky, USA
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Posted 19 Apr 2014 12:07 pm
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Richard- thank you.
I have changed the gauge to a heavier string on the 3rd, check.
Pedal travel- that is adjusted where the pedal connects to the rod?
I am raising them both to A (I tuned 3&6 down to G for an Em tuning) |
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Steve Lipsey
From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
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Posted 19 Apr 2014 12:47 pm
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You don't need to change gauges if you are still raising only to what you raised to before, i.e., A.
Unless they feel too loose when tuned down to G...
_________________
https://www.lostsailorspdx.com
Williams S10s, Milkman Pedal Steel Mini & "The Amp"
Ben Bonham Resos, 1954 Oahu Diana, 1936 Oahu Parlor |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 19 Apr 2014 1:50 pm
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Assuming this is a professional model GFI (all bets are off on starter models):
Tighten the nylon tuning nut at the endplate for the B pedal at the respective strings. HOWEVER----do not tighten so much that you start raising the pitch with the pedal not engaged. This is the single most important thing to watch out for when making adjustments.
This may do the job for the 6th string. There is a good chance that it there is not enough adjustment room on the 3rd. What you need is to get more rod movement out of your pedal motion. Do this by changing the linkage underneath so that the pull rod connects to a hole or slot on the bellcrank (rod puller) on the cross shaft. You want a hole that is farther away from the cross shaft. This will yield more string raise for the same amount of pedal movement. You can then fine tune at the nylon tuner.
Also, with somewhat less leverage change, you can select a different hole on the changer finger. In this case you want a hole that is closer to the top of the changer. |
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Jim Priebe
From:
Queensland, Australia - R.I.P.
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Posted 19 Apr 2014 2:51 pm
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There is a pedal stop adjustment (grubscrew and lock nut) on the frame for each pedal travel. You also may - actually will - have to move the relevant brass crank-to-rod ferrule further out (there are 4, 6 or 7 hole options on GFI's depending on your model - further from the cross shaft moves the rod more) to get enough string movement - care needed here to get the strings raising in unison if possible. This will give the pull rod a bit more movement (for the extra semitone). Going up is much easier than down on the thin strings (less movement needed).
If the pedal moves more then you may need to adjust the pedal rod to pedal connector to trim the pedals to suit your playing.
N.B. This extra pull is going to kill your 3rd string IMHO which is a shame as most GFI's never break the 3rd G#. Slack key tuning may help a bit.
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Priebs GFI ('09)Short-Uni10. GFI ('96)Short-Uni SD11. ('86)JEM U12
www.steelguitardownunder.com |
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