Aluminum Tone Bar

Bill Dobkins · From: Rolla Missouri, USA

I just received my tone bar from Wayne Johnson. I love it. It's light and feels good in my hand. It will become my main bar for now. Wayne is making me a titanium that I think will be the ultimate bar, I will let you know as soon as I get it.
Thanks Wayne for a great bar and great service.
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Roger Shackelton · From: MINNESOTA (deceased)

Hi Bill,

Is Your Aluminum Bar 7075 T6?

That Is Perhaps One Of The Hardest Aluminum Alloys.

Roger

W. Johnson · From: Oregon, USA

I was just poking around on the forum, found this thread started by Bill. Hope it's okay to chime in here. I wanted to answer the question about what aluminum is being used in the aluminum tone bars I'm making. I use 6061-T6 aluminum alloy. 6061-T6 aluminum is rated at B60 on the Rockwell Hardness scale, 7075-T6 is rated at B87. 7075 is definitely harder, close to being as hard as regular steel. The bars I'm making are anodized pretty heavily, sealed, and polished. Your hands or strings do not contact the aluminum itself.

For hardness comparison, grade 2 titanium hardness is rated at B70-B90, steel at B91, 303 stainless at B83, 316 stainless at B91, (440c can be hardened to C60 but I do not have means to harden it),17-4 stainless (what I use in bars) at C35, grade 5 titanium at C36 (what I use in titanium bars.) (Just checked the specs again on grade 5 titanium, it's C36 not C35, it's harder than the hardest stainless steel I can find.)

7075 is a good idea, I've considered using it. I don't know if it will make a difference in sound?

I think hardness might relate more to durability (wear and tear). In regards to aluminum, it's not the aluminum that's touching the strings but the aluminum oxide (anodizing), which is second in hardness only to diamond.

Hope this answers the question.

W. Johnson
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Jack Hargraves · From: Missouri, USA

Where can you get these aluminum bars?
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W. Johnson · From: Oregon, USA

Joshua Gibson · From: Arizona, USA

Wayne,
How well does the finish on the aluminum hold up to perspiration?...I unfortunately have a very odd PH balance and I'm very intrigued by the prospect of a 7/8" that weighs 3 oz...AND is made locally!!!!(ish, lol).

thanks.
Josh.
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Telonics, Zoom, BJS,
Goldtone BS, LITM, OS Dobros.
Fender, G&L, Gibson, Ibanez guitars.

W. Johnson · From: Oregon, USA

Pat Edwards · From: Delaware, Ohio

I'll give you my two cents.
I ordered an aluminum and brass bar from Wayne and I like both of them. In my opinion, Wayne offers a great product and outstanding service.
Regarding sweat, I am also a corrosive person therefore,I clean everything when I am finished playiing and usually polish metal weekly with Meguir's wax, Never Dull or Dr. Duck's Axe Wax and I have had no issues.
Hope that helps.

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

One thing to keep in mind is that significantly lighter bars will cause a loss of sustain. Whether or not this matters is, of course, up to the individual player. Some styles (Hawaiian for instance) aren't known for a lot of sustain because most of the famous Hawaiian players used smaller and lighter bars. In other styles, such as most country stuff by guys like Emmons, Green, and Hughey, they always used larger (heavier) bars, and they became recognized for the great amounts of sustain in their sound.

While bar mass is not everything when it comes to sustain, it is a key component. Winking

It should also be kept in mind that lightweight bars will sometimes necessitate the use of more downforce applied by the left hand, in order to keep string rattle and buzz to a minimum. After long periods of playing, this additional strain may cause discomfort for some players.

As with most things in life, it's a trade-off, and there ain't no free lunch. Each change we make in the equipment we use causes a change somewhere else.

Darvin Willhoite · From: Roxton, Tx. USA

How does Aluminum or Brass either stand up to scratching, especially from the lower string windings?
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Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro.

Pat Edwards · From: Delaware, Ohio

I am looking at my chrome bars and comparing the aluminum oxide coted aluminum bar and brass bar and from why I can see, my chrome bars show more wear. I have had Wayne's bars for 5 weeks and I play daily for two hours a day and I am pleased with them.

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

Anodized aliminum is extremely hard on the surface. But as soon as the surface is compromised (with a nick or scratch) corrosion will begin. I just throw my stainless and chrome bars in a box with picks, screws, pliers, and all kinds of assorted "metallica", and there are no ill effects.

I wouldn't do that with a an anodized or brass bar.

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