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Post new topic Homemade Cables
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Author Topic:  Homemade Cables
Matthew Walton


From:
Fort Worth, Texas
Post  Posted 13 Apr 2014 12:13 pm    
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I've been thinking about making my own cables lately, but I'm not quite sure what to use. My current plan is to use Neutrik connectors and Belden cables, but as to what cable model, I have nearly no idea. I emailed back and forth with someone at Belden, who recommended the 1776, but I did not find the experience to be helpful. The Belden 1776, with a rated pulling strength of 250 lbs, is impressive, but is overkill and more than I was hoping to pay (about $5.00/ft). Why you would ever need that is beyond me.

Anyways, there are so many different options, I just have pretty much no idea what to get. I know that cables are usually coaxial, but I've also read that you can get shielded twisted pair, and attach the shield to cold at one end, and get the same result. It seems like this would be good if I ever started using balanced cables, since I could just replace the connectors. I'd prefer something with a fairly small diameter, that has a fair amount of strength. I don't know how much force a realistic tug would have, but it seems like 50 lbs would be plenty. Also, of course flexibility is a must. Along with flexibility, I think it would be nice if it was physically heavy, to lay down on the stage nicely.

I know that low capacitance is important in a cable, but I'm not sure what the point of diminishing returns is for capacitance.

In closing,
Heavy duty
Physically heavy
Low capacitance (thanks Russ!)
Flexible
Small diameter (close to 4mm?)
Coaxial or twisted pair?

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1981 MSA "The Universal" Bb6 S-12 9/5 | 2024 Excel Robostar Bb6 S-12 8/5 | 2009 MSA SuperSlide C6 S-12 | Peavey Nashville 112


Last edited by Matthew Walton on 13 Apr 2014 12:36 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Russ Wever

 

From:
Kansas City
Post  Posted 13 Apr 2014 12:25 pm     Re: Homemade Cables
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Matthew Walton wrote:

In closing,
Heavy duty
Physically heavy
Flexible
Small diameter (close to 4mm?)
Coaxial or twisted pair?


I suggest putting Capacitance somewhere
towards the top of your 'concerns' list.
Capacitance has a lot to do with how
your sound is effected as it passes
through the cable.
~Rw
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Matthew Walton


From:
Fort Worth, Texas
Post  Posted 13 Apr 2014 12:29 pm    
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Ah, good point Russ. Completely forgot about that. :p
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Lee Warren


From:
Nashville, Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 13 Apr 2014 7:01 pm    
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Hi Matthew,
Many many years ago, I used (and had good results with)
Belden 8410 for guitar cables
Belden 8412 for mic (balanced) cables

There are many other options available these days.
If I were looking to make my own cables now, I'd look at Mogami.
Just my 2 cents.
YMMV

Lee
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Matthew Walton


From:
Fort Worth, Texas
Post  Posted 13 Apr 2014 7:31 pm    
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Lee, thanks for the suggestions; I'll definitely take a closer look at those.

Any reason in particular you recommend Mogami now?
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If something I wrote can be interpreted two ways, and one of the ways makes you sad or angry, I meant the other one.

1981 MSA "The Universal" Bb6 S-12 9/5 | 2024 Excel Robostar Bb6 S-12 8/5 | 2009 MSA SuperSlide C6 S-12 | Peavey Nashville 112
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Mitchell Smithey


From:
Dallas, USA
Post  Posted 13 Apr 2014 7:40 pm    
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Check out redco audio online, I'm using redco instrument cable and love it. They sell most brands of cable. Happy soldering!
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Bill L. Wilson


From:
Oklahoma, USA
Post  Posted 13 Apr 2014 8:28 pm     Good Cables.
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I know some folks complain about George L's solderless cables, but my experience with them is all good. My 10footer from the vol. pedal stays flat on the floor, if I uncoil it before hooking it up. If they are cut square on the end, before you put the plug on, they work fine. The small .155's w/right angle & straight ends aren't cheap, at 2bucks a Ft. and 5bucks a plug, but they're compact, quiet, an easy fix, and reliable. With all the stuff I haul in my Old Sho-Bud Pac-A-Seat, if I didn't use Geo. L's, that thing would weigh 50lbs. instead of 40lbs.
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Dave Grafe


From:
Hudson River Valley NY
Post  Posted 13 Apr 2014 10:15 pm    
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Mogami cable
Neutrik connectors

NOT twisted pair. Regardless of the number of conductors, you need shielded cable for everything except the speaker cords.
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Matthew Walton


From:
Fort Worth, Texas
Post  Posted 13 Apr 2014 10:36 pm    
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Sorry, meant to specify shielded twisted pair in the summary. There's a table on this page that explains what I would do with the shielded twisted pair.
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If something I wrote can be interpreted two ways, and one of the ways makes you sad or angry, I meant the other one.

1981 MSA "The Universal" Bb6 S-12 9/5 | 2024 Excel Robostar Bb6 S-12 8/5 | 2009 MSA SuperSlide C6 S-12 | Peavey Nashville 112
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Michael Hartz

 

From:
Decorah, Iowa, USA
Post  Posted 14 Apr 2014 4:35 am    
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Mogami cable and neutrik all the way baby!
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Mike Neer


From:
NJ
Post  Posted 14 Apr 2014 6:41 am    
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I am using the same cables I build over 20 years ago. I believe it was a nice 4 conductor colored (red) Belden cable (like 1192A) and I used Switchcraft ends. I also used silver solder, which created the best contact and shine of any solder I've used previously. These are the best cables I've used in the last 25 years...no, ever.
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Bob Hoffnar


From:
Austin, Tx
Post  Posted 14 Apr 2014 8:09 pm    
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On the advice of some guys that run recording studios I went with neutrik and canare gs-6. Works fine for me. I did some A/B testing with another steel player and we could hear the difference. Canare had the edge.
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Matthew Walton


From:
Fort Worth, Texas
Post  Posted 14 Apr 2014 8:20 pm    
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Mike and Lee, how is the flexibility of the 1192A and 8410/8412 respectively? I usually play standing up, and am on guitar half the time, so I do need something flexible/heavy/etc. enough to let me walk around a little without them jumping around and tripping people.

Also, what is the critical capacitance level I should keep in mind. According to this thread, George L's are 23 pF/ft. It seems that most cables seem to linger around a little above 30pF/ft, but I don't know what I should be looking for. The Mogami cables about 40pF/ft and 47 pF/ft.

And yes, I'm aware that I am way over analyzing this whole matter. I would probably agonize a little less over this if I didn't have to buy 100 ft of the stuff. Flexibility just doesn't seem to be something specified in data sheets, so I end up looking at PDFs like this, to try to figure out whether it's flexible or not. I also keep looking for something that has a maximum pulling strength of around 50 lbs, even though I probably don't need anywhere near that. It's a sickness I tell you!
_________________
If something I wrote can be interpreted two ways, and one of the ways makes you sad or angry, I meant the other one.

1981 MSA "The Universal" Bb6 S-12 9/5 | 2024 Excel Robostar Bb6 S-12 8/5 | 2009 MSA SuperSlide C6 S-12 | Peavey Nashville 112
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Bob Hoffnar


From:
Austin, Tx
Post  Posted 15 Apr 2014 4:50 am    
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George L cables are not so good if you move around and they get pulled on. Also keep in mind that you can return and exchange any cable you order if it doesn't suit you as long the place has a return policy.

I use Canare cable ,which should work fine for your purposes, has GS-6 and 1305 printed on it.

The neutrik plugs I have are NP2C Straight plug and NP2RX-B right angle plug. At least that is what is written on the bags. They are built like tanks.
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George Redmon


From:
Muskegon & Detroit Michigan.
Post  Posted 16 Apr 2014 11:11 pm    
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Years ago Jeff Numan told me to build my own cables with the Belden 8410. I still have those cables, although i don't still use them. They sound just as good as any other, so jeff was right. They were made with a rubber jacket, not plastic. They are all cracked like an old tire, but work and sound as good as when jeff told me to build them. Today i to use the Canare GS6. I build my own, with the black neutrik 1/4" phone plugs. I also put heat shrink on mine. They look great and sound great, and GS6 comes in several colors. You should try'em. If i can build a guitar cable...anyone can. Thanks Jeff Numan, best advice he ever gave me RIP. JMHO Hope i have contributed. God Bless
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 18 Apr 2014 8:28 am    
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matt...overanalyzing, too many questions...and the hat.
i think you'd do better to just buy some decent cables.
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Lee Warren


From:
Nashville, Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 18 Apr 2014 8:40 am    
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Sage advice from Chris.
Just do it! Wink
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Matthew Walton


From:
Fort Worth, Texas
Post  Posted 18 Apr 2014 5:09 pm    
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Chris and Lee, I know, I know! This all started when I bought some cables from Monoprice for a great deal, but the amp would pick up taps on the cable. It basically upset me so much that I wanted a completely new approach. That was compounded when I was watching a Brian Setzer gear rundown, and his tech mentioned using super durable Belden cables, which got me on this crazy search.

Also, if you're talking about the hat in my profile photo, that was taken at "Frontier Forts Days." There's a lot of sitting around waiting to play, so during one of the lulls, my brother and I switched hats. The picture you see is me wearing my brother's top hat, which just kind of rested on top of my head. I took a picture of my brother wearing my hat, which was so big on him that it went down over his eyes. Unfortunately, I guess he didn't let me keep it.
_________________
If something I wrote can be interpreted two ways, and one of the ways makes you sad or angry, I meant the other one.

1981 MSA "The Universal" Bb6 S-12 9/5 | 2024 Excel Robostar Bb6 S-12 8/5 | 2009 MSA SuperSlide C6 S-12 | Peavey Nashville 112
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Scott Duckworth


From:
Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
Post  Posted 19 Apr 2014 4:12 am    
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I've had good luck with these cables from Part Express.

http://tinyurl.com/n7lpt6j
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Jim Bates

 

From:
Alvin, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 19 Apr 2014 2:17 pm    
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I made several cables several years ago from the 'blue cable' Belden 9272, 78 ohm. It has two conductors in it because some of my customers wanted stereo capability. A couple wanted me to tie both conductors together for added strength and reliability. They last. I still use my 35+ year cables.

Maybe you can find this cable or a close equivalent.

Thanx,
Jim
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