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Post new topic Mechanical half stop
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Author Topic:  Mechanical half stop
Jason Putnam


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 6 Apr 2014 2:28 pm    
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I know this is a strange question but does anyone have a video of a mechanical half stop like the ones on an Emmons, etc. showing how it works? I have looked at pictures of them but I can't wrap my mind around how it works without actually seeing it work.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 6 Apr 2014 4:10 pm    
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Izzat the same as MSA/Bud? If so, I can shoot one tomorrow. They're kinda simple.
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Jason Putnam


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 6 Apr 2014 4:56 pm    
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Thanks, that would be great. I think they all work mostly the same way. I just can't wrap my head around it for some reason. I'm still determined to get a half stop on this Stage One. I will figure it out!!! I just love trying to solve mechanical puzzles! Very Happy
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post  Posted 6 Apr 2014 10:36 pm    
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If your talking about the 2nd string lower from D# to D to C#: See the nicely done diagram below from the SGF archives. I believe it was drawn by Richard Burton.

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/userpix1205/2419_Raise1copy_1.jpg

The changer finger is held by an additional spring to the full raise position (against the body) at rest.

The full lower is tuned as is any lower, at the end plate lower screw [B].

The half stop detente is made at the point where the raise finger is lowered and contacts the lowering finger. It is tuned at the endplate screw where one normally tunes the open note. [A]

The "half stop" feel is made more noticeable by adding tension to the lower-return spring. NOTE: doing it this way, does does not allow any 2nd string raise changes.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 6:34 am    
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And here's the MSA half-stop explained. The Sho-Bud is similar, except it has a barrel on it at D.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZoVqgtGk3o
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Jim Palenscar

 

From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 7:13 am    
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Nice job Lane.
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Earnest Bovine


From:
Los Angeles CA USA
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 7:24 am    
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Jason has a Stage One, so he is not asking about the Emmons push/pull. Nevertheless I will follow this thread as it drifts toward push/pull half stops.

Tony Glassman wrote:
...
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/userpix1205/2419_Raise1copy_1.jpg
.........
The half stop detente is made at the point where the raise finger is lowered and contacts the lowering finger. It is tuned at the endplate screw where one normally tunes the open note. [A]

The "half stop" feel is made more noticeable by adding tension to the lower-return spring.


I guess you could do a half stop that way, if you use a push rod for the first stage of the lower (for example D# to D on string 2). But I like to use a push only for the second part (D to C# on string 2).

I like it better if the first stage of the lower is done by releasing tension on the spring that held the raise finger against the guitar body. This way there is no "detente", and no need for a stiff lower-return spring. You can even do 2 strings simultaneously with independent tuning of all the notes. Watch it here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tlXL6eYaAQ
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Jason Putnam


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 7:59 am    
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Thanks a lot Lane. That was a tremendous help. Now I just have to design my own. But I understand the concept now. Smile
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 8:04 am    
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Why design it? For around 50 (maybe less, I don't recall), Jim Palenscar or Tom Bradshaw will sell you one, and probably have a bellcrank that will fit the Stage one.
I THINK the one I showed was Jim's (that guitar has two: one Jim, one Tom). If you have a machine shop (I don't), you might be able to rig one, but I'd rather throw money at a problem than time, if it doesn't need much money.
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Jason Putnam


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 9:44 am    
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The bell crank on my rkr moves toward the changer. It's pull release changer. There is only about 3 or so inches of space between the bell crank and end plate. In the video it looks like the half stop is located in the center of the guitar and the bell crank is moving away from the changer toward the center of the guitar. (All pull changer???)
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 9:54 am    
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I think that requires someone cleverer than I. I am POSITIVE that with a reversing swivel, or another clever bit, could make it work. Either reverse something to have it push, or rejigger it to make it work on a pull.
My brain says someone could make it work, but isn't giving me answers.
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Jason Putnam


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 10:18 am    
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Thanks. Just seeing it work was a big help. Thanks for taking the time to video it for me.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 10:34 am    
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Sure. Videoing the Winston book tabs that aren't on the soundsheet is proving harder. Hard to play a song you know (Silent Night is first on the list) just like someone else transcribed isn't all that easy.
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Jason Putnam


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 10:52 am    
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For me playing anything when there is a recording device present is a disaster!!! I can do it perfect 100000 times and try to record it and can't hit one right note.
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 11:47 am    
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Earnest Bovine wrote:
Jason has a Stage One, so he is not asking about the Emmons push/pull. Nevertheless I will follow this thread as it drifts toward push/pull half stops.


He mentioned Emmons-like half stops (see initial entry). I was just explaining (rather than campaigning for) one.
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Dick Sexton


From:
Greenville, Ohio
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 12:41 pm     One way...
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Jason Putnam


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 1:06 pm    
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Thanks Dick!! I knew someone out there was smarter than me and could figure it out! Now I just have to figure out how to make it. Or find someone who can. I knew it was possible!!
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richard burton


From:
Britain
Post  Posted 7 Apr 2014 9:04 pm    
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Is the copedent fixed, if not you can attach another bellcrank to the RKR, and use it to lower the 9th string a semitone, which conveniently becomes the half-stop for the 2nd string drop.

Have the 9th string held in the raised position, ie touching the body, by a spring.

Set the 9th string to start dropping at the exact instance that the 2nd string has dropped a semitone.

By increasing/decreasing the tension of the spring holding the 9th string in the raised position, you can alter the 'feel' of the half stop.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 8 Apr 2014 2:31 am    
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Richard, that might be harder to configure on a pull-release, since it'd want to release 9 first. But you know a bunch more than I about working on pull-release.
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Dick Sexton


From:
Greenville, Ohio
Post  Posted 8 Apr 2014 4:14 am     Second way...
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Richard, that for sure would work and would be easier then what I have drawn, but I believe on the Stage One, the bell cranks are welded to the cross rods. Not a problem for tinkerers like ourselves, but could be if the person was not pretty handy. My drawing is slightly more complicated also, to allow half stop tuning at the end plate.

Could even use an archery burger button as a half stop, for those of you that have been into archery. But that would require tuning from below. Actually anything that would present a mid travel pressure(and be adjustable) would work. I can think of a half dozen that might not be pretty. One I'm thing of, you would have to change the rubber bands about once a month to keep the pressure consistent. Lol!
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Jason Putnam


From:
Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 8 Apr 2014 5:15 am    
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You are correct. The bellcranks are welded on these guitars. I can do a lot of mechanical things. But welding is not one of them. Laughing
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