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Topic: Changer Lube,,? |
Richard Tipple
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 20 Jan 2014 8:08 pm |
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A couple of questions,,
I use Tti-flow oil to lube my Rains, cross shafts, knee levers Etc. But there is no good way to lube the changer fingers without dis assembly of the changers themselves, which is a job in itself 
I don't believe the Tri-flow can migrate between the fingers, as they are. Are there any tricks to lubing the changers without a full dis-assembly ?
Another question,,
There seems to be some question of using oil or grease, on the changers.
A couple of years after I bought my Rains, new from Gary,
I did dis-assemble the changers and it appeared to have a grease lube between them,,,,,so would it be grease or oil, for the lube?
I would assume a light Teflon based grease might work ? |
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Scott Duckworth
From:
Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 21 Jan 2014 4:10 am
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I find that if you want pinpoint oiling (not a bad idea), an oiler with a tube will work well if you remove the return springs, because the thing that REALLY needs it is the pivot rivet.
Paul F. Sr uses motor oil. Bruce Zumsteg uses a light machine oil. Mickey Adams uses synthetic jet turbine oil. I think the type matters less than the actually getting it in there occasionally and using very little.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Johan Jansen
From:
Europe
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Posted 21 Jan 2014 8:57 am
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Try is with a thick injection needle.
JJ |
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Mike Wheeler
From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 21 Jan 2014 9:47 am Re: Changer Lube,,?
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| Richard Tipple wrote: |
A couple of questions,,
I don't believe the Tri-flow can migrate between the fingers, as they are. Are there any tricks to lubing the changers without a full dis-assembly ?
I did dis-assemble the changers and it appeared to have a grease lube between them,,,,,so would it be grease or oil, for the lube?
I would assume a light Teflon based grease might work ? |
TriFlow will migrate very well into the changer assembly. But you need the 2oz. bottle with the little straw to get pinpoint accuracy. The aerosol can's spray is too aggressive.
I can't say what the "grease" is on the changer fingers. It may be oil that is beginning to dry out...which is why I never use oil anymore. If I were in your place, I'd do a complete disassembly and cleaning of the changer...but that's just me. The TriFlow will wash out the old lube, if it is indeed old oil.
I don't think you should use any "grease" type of lube. It's too thick and can inhibit movement.
TriFlow contains a carrier that evaporates rather quickly (a couple weeks) leaving behind the microscopic teflon particles...which are what is actually "lubing" the surfaces. After the carrier evaporates, there is no oil residue left behind to attract dust and grime. This is what makes TriFlow so valuable, IMHO.
Here is a pic of the one I recommend, and have used successfully for more than 20 years on all my guitars. (remember to shake it frequently to keep the teflon particles from settling)
_________________
Best regards,
Mike |
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Johan Jansen
From:
Europe
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Richard Tipple
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 21 Jan 2014 10:14 am
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Thanks fellas,,this sure helps  |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 21 Jan 2014 2:35 pm
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I prefer oil because it will migrate continually to wherever there is a crevice, or where two surfaces come together. Personally I don't fret over a little dust or oil buildup on the changer, as a little too much is far better than not enough.  |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 21 Jan 2014 3:24 pm
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Mike W., both Mike Cass and Jack Stray horn have said that Emmons guitar lube the axle with white lithium grease.
Do I think your position has merit? Yeah.
That's why I said light oil is good enough. While TriFlow and synthetic turbine oil are better, some of the best guitars on the planet get made with grease and oil.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Mike Wheeler
From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 21 Jan 2014 4:33 pm
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That's fine, Lane. I have no problem with anyone else's choice of lube. There may be other reasons that a manufacturer uses a specific lube, or grease, besides just making parts slide easily. I'm only recounting my experience, and suggesting what I've found to be a better choice for my guitars.
And I'm only posting this info to keep the info about TriFlow correct as possible. It's very reliable and effective for steel guitars.
With TriFlow I don't have to add more lube every 6 to 12 months like I used to. Things stay lubed for a much longer time than they ever did when I used the finest oils.
One last thought, back when I gigged 6 days a week, I had to tear down my guitars every year to clean out the crud build-up. Once I switched to TriFlow that wasn't needed anymore. The guitars' changers stayed much, much, cleaner and were still moving freely...even after 2 years.
This is all just my own experience, though. YMMV
_________________
Best regards,
Mike |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 22 Jan 2014 8:37 am
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| I have used white lithium grease in the past on certain areas on the pedal steel:ie changer fingers, pedal rod, etc. |
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Craig Baker
From:
Eatonton, Georgia, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 22 Jan 2014 2:51 pm
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Lubriplate white grease has been the favorite of many precision machinists for years. However, Tri-Flo is more in keeping with today's lubricants. It's used extensively in the aviation industry because as Mike Wheeler mentioned, it keeps performing long after other lubricants are no longer effective.
Best regards,
Craig Baker 706-485-8792
cmbakerelectronics@gmail.com
C.M. Baker Electronics
P.O. Box 3965
Eatonton, GA 31024 |
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chris ivey
From:
california (deceased)
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Posted 22 Jan 2014 2:52 pm
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| obviously, larger clunkier friction points will handle white grease fine. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 22 Jan 2014 3:16 pm
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I've been using ONLY dry (never the mineral oil type) Teflon lubes for quite some time (the dry version of TriFlow is Teflon). ALL oils, regardless of type, will attract dirt, eventually break down and possibly require changer disassembly to remove caked dirt/oil/great that eventually causes the mechanism to feel slow or hang.
In some cases you can squirt Ronson lighter fluid (VM&P Naphtha) into the parts to flush out the gunk, but it take a LOT of pressure and repeated applications - and adding dry lube to a gunked up piece of machinery is a waste.
Literally every steel I ever bought used - Fenders, MSA, ShoBud and others - needed thorough cleaning before it played decently.
Seriously - I know low-viscosity oils have been the standard for years but they WILL cause problems. Avoid them, avoid oil-type Teflon, and stay with dry Teflon only. It just slowly wears away and there's never any buildup - or problem.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Mitch Ellis
From:
Collins, Mississippi USA
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Posted 22 Jan 2014 4:03 pm
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Bruce Zumsteg (sp?) once told me to use transmission fluid to lubricate my Zum. I later found the owners manual and it says to lubricate the changer with "lightweight machine oil (3-in-1 or equal) several times per year". For the roller nut it says "A liquid Teflon lube is recommended, or a lightweight machine oil will also do". It also says "DO NOT use WD-40 on the rollers or any part of the guitar" then explains why.
Mitch |
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