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Author Topic:  Fret Board Won't Stick
Bill Plemmons

 

From:
Simpsonville, SC
Post  Posted 30 Nov 2013 8:47 am    
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I removed the fret board on the aluminum C6 Neck of my Legrande a few months ago and have been unable to get it to stay stuck to the neck since. I'm using 3m double sided tape which has always worked great before. The fret board appears to stick to the neck ok but after the guitar has been in the case for a while, the fret board is loose when the guitar is removed from the case. I used brake rotor cleaner and Goo Gone to remove adhesive residue from the neck when I removed the fret board the first time. I can't imagine this would cause the problem. The only other possibility I can think of is contamination somehow from using triflo to lube the guitar but that is used only on the changer and underneath the guitar. I have tried lacquer thinner, acetone, alcohol, vinegar, soap and water and sanding to clean the neck but the tape won,t remain stuck to the neck. Any suggestions are appreciated!
Bill
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 30 Nov 2013 9:44 am    
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How humid is the place you store the guitar? That's my guess.
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Johan Jansen


From:
Europe
Post  Posted 30 Nov 2013 11:36 pm    
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Instead of tape, try to 'glue' it with silicone. But I don't know if it could damage the surface....
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Len Amaral

 

From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
Post  Posted 1 Dec 2013 8:30 am    
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I would use a scotch-brite pad with denatured alcohol and tape off the area where you don't want contact cement. I would also use the old standard contact cement not water based.

Cement the fret board and guitar neck and when the cement is dry, lay small 1/4" sticks across the guitar neck, lay the fret board on top to align and remove one stick at a time and press the fret board down to stick. You only have one shot at this so take your time. Use a roller or soft plastic piece up & down the fretboard when finished.

Hope this helps,

Lenny
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Jerry Jones


From:
Franklin, Tenn.
Post  Posted 1 Dec 2013 9:24 am    
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Don't know which 3M tape you are using, but 3M does make a double sided carpet tape that is a bit thicker.... that's always worked best for me. I have a replacement ShoBud fretboard that has 468MP film on the back. Also, best to maintain room temp (70+) while the tape sets, maybe with a little weighted pressure. I understand that it may take contact tape 3-4 days to develop full adhesion.

Good Luck!
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Jerry Jones
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David Shepack

 

From:
New Jersey, USA
Post  Posted 1 Dec 2013 9:58 am     I doubt that this will help this poster
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I have a Maverick with the contact paper. I was stressing about taking the fretboard off without cracking it. ( the contact paper has got to go )
The guitar was in the sun during a video shoot. when I moved the guitar, the fret board fell off. I put the fret board back on and moved the guitar in the shade.
When the shoot was over, and I was packing up, the fret board wouldn't come off
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Len Amaral

 

From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
Post  Posted 1 Dec 2013 11:52 am    
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If you use thick double sided carpet tape the fretboard will be slightly elevated.

Also, if you use the contact cement, use a small roller to apply as the cement will be distributed more evenly.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 1 Dec 2013 1:21 pm    
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My favorite application tool for contact cement is a piece of closed cell foam (I make foam play weapons out of Walmart camp pad, and use a scrap of the foam to spread it).
For contact cement, the key is even application on both surfaces, letting it dry til no cement is moist, then place it in the right place. You get no working time, it must go in the right place the first time. But, in the words of Bob Dylan, [it] ain't going nowhere.
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More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Ray Montee


From:
Portland, Oregon (deceased)
Post  Posted 1 Dec 2013 1:23 pm     About those pesky fret boards...............
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I have an Excel Dbl neck, JB model, in pristine condition.

One morning I looked at the guitar and found the fret board buckled upward between frets one and three.

I've purchased a new fret board from Scotty but how does one get the 'secure' part of the board unsecured from the neck?

The unit has been in my home since its purchase and not subjected to any kind of HEAT or temperature changes. It's been in the case since purchased.
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Len Amaral

 

From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
Post  Posted 1 Dec 2013 1:46 pm    
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I think Mr. Saymour commented about using a guitar string wrapped at both end with dowel and then slide the string under one end of the fretboard and see/saw the string from side to side with a pulling action down the neck
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Ray Montee


From:
Portland, Oregon (deceased)
Post  Posted 1 Dec 2013 2:12 pm     Many Thanks
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MANY THANKS to you.............

Much appreciated.
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post  Posted 1 Dec 2013 4:32 pm    
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I have a push-pull w/ a small area coming up on the fret board. I tried surgically sliding in a piece of double sided tape w/ suboptimal results.

Next step is to inject a small amount of Gorilla Glue under the fretboard via syringe using a 22 gauge needle. I'll put some tape along the outer edge of the board to prevent scratching the jeweled aluminum neck


....more as this story develops
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 1 Dec 2013 5:09 pm    
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nothing will stick to silicon. that's why it's so good to keep things from sticking.
if you got some on the neck it might cause the problem. try cleaning it more and maybe rough up the surface slightly with some 'light' sanding.
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