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Post new topic Setting a steel on its end to perform maintainence?
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Author Topic:  Setting a steel on its end to perform maintainence?
Jeff Metz Jr.


From:
York, Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 18 Oct 2013 11:43 pm    
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I was just wondering if any body ever sets their steels on end to work on them. Would it hurt any thing?
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 19 Oct 2013 12:14 am    
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My only real concern would be the plugs in the legs. I doubt they made tgem with side loads in mind.
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richard burton


From:
Britain
Post  Posted 19 Oct 2013 12:59 am    
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If you see a steel with bent 5th and 6th tuners, you know that someone has found out the hard way why steels shouldn't be stood on end


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Georg Sørtun


From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
Post  Posted 19 Oct 2013 2:24 am    
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I prefer setting my PSGs on end on a workbench of suitable (or adjustable) height to work on them. A newspaper or thin piece of cloth under the keyhead end to prevent scratching, a fixture near the top to keep it in position (mind Richard's warning Smile ), and backlegs off for unobstructed access to fully functional instrument.

Am not sure if I would set all PSG brands/versions on end to work on them - not all PSGs are made equal, but it has been working fine for doing all kinds of work on my Dekleys, GFI and MSA. Never had any problems in the 25 or so years I have done it this way.
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 19 Oct 2013 9:52 am    
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i can't believe i'm gonna reply here.
just turn it upside down before it falls over that way anyway.
...or your 5th and 6th tuners might disappear like on richards little steel.
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b0b


From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
Post  Posted 19 Oct 2013 10:36 am    
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I use a B&D workbench with a couple of 2x4's attached to it. It's adjustable for any steel.


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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 19 Oct 2013 5:26 pm     Re: Setting a steel on its end to perform maintainence?
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Jeff Metz Jr. wrote:
I was just wondering if any body ever sets their steels on end to work on them. Would it hurt any thing?


I don't think so. I've done that to mine (standing it on the keyhead end) when I wanted to see the source of strange noises. I removed the right-rear leg, and left the pedal rack and other leg on. This allowed me to operate both the pedals and levers, and leaving the other legs and rack in place made it very stable in this position.
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Ken Metcalf


From:
San Antonio Texas USA
Post  Posted 20 Oct 2013 6:32 am    
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Here is my set up for performing an exorcism on my PP.
Ha! just kidding. this is the cat scratcher I made at a nice height and a cradle much like b0bs.
It is nice to be able to pluck a string and have a tuner connected.
Here I am setting up a Mooney pedal on my 7th pedal raising 4th string E-F# Ala Johnny Cox.
I have set of the leg attachments for this purpose but find them a pain to get on and off.
Sometimes I will just lay it on a towel but working on the ground is a hassle and makes for sore knees.



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Cal Sharp


From:
the farm in Kornfield Kounty, TN
Post  Posted 20 Oct 2013 6:51 am    
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You guys are missing all the fun if you don't work on your guitar upside down on your pac-a-seat out on the road on a dark honky tonk stage or on a hay wagon at a rodeo in the rain.
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Ken Metcalf


From:
San Antonio Texas USA
Post  Posted 20 Oct 2013 7:18 am    
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Oops
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Last edited by Ken Metcalf on 21 Oct 2013 5:43 am; edited 1 time in total
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Ian Rae


From:
Redditch, England
Post  Posted 20 Oct 2013 10:56 am    
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I do exactly like Donny, although I sometimes take the other rear leg off as well as I've a D10 and it's pretty stable. I don't like the idea of turning it upside down even on a padded surface, but now I've seen b0b's B&D idea I'll try it. I have a Workmate and plenty of the right timber - just not the brains to make the connection....
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Ken Metcalf


From:
San Antonio Texas USA
Post  Posted 20 Oct 2013 2:54 pm    
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I will also copy b0bs and get a porta bench like that.
The Cat (Sugar) is unhappy with the current arrangement.


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Bob Cox


From:
Buckeye State
Post  Posted 20 Oct 2013 6:21 pm    
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These are the work stands I designed and build. They utilize the legs to hold them on an offer enough room to reach under and strum for checking, One can also use 1/2" x 1" no 13 cap bolts to fasten them if you don't want to use the legs

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/userpix1029/2484_steel_stands_1.jpg
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Craig A Davidson


From:
Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
Post  Posted 23 Oct 2013 3:14 pm    
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Cal been there done that more than once.
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 23 Oct 2013 4:19 pm    
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Ian Rae wrote:
I don't like the idea of turning it upside down even on a padded surface, .


steels are upside down in the case all the time.
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Jeff Metz Jr.


From:
York, Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 24 Oct 2013 1:13 am    
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Bob Cox wrote:
These are the work stands I designed and build. They utilize the legs to hold them on an offer enough room to reach under and strum for checking, One can also use 1/2" x 1" no 13 cap bolts to fasten them if you don't want to use the legs

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/userpix1029/2484_steel_stands_1.jpg


Do your legshaveangled. Holes? Most steelswould needthem to in order to not hurt the threads while using the legs.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 25 Oct 2013 6:00 am    
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Lane Gray wrote:
My only real concern would be the plugs in the legs. I doubt they made them with side loads in mind.


It's too bad other manufacturers never picked up on Fender's idea of counter-boring the end plates for the legs, and then recessing the threads so they're about an inch below the surface. It sure makes for a more solid/strong arrangement! This is also how Fender got around the necessity of having adjustable rear legs to prevent wobble. If you set up on an irregular surface, you just unscrew one of the back legs until the guitar doesn't wobble. Smile

When you see this, it's a real head-slap moment, like "Duh...why doesn't every manufacturer do this?" Oh Well
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Chris Lucker

 

From:
Los Angeles, California USA
Post  Posted 25 Oct 2013 6:24 am    
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Donny, I suspect fender threads are shouldered because they were cut on a lathe with a straight 60 degree cutting tool. The width of the tool and the tool bit holder precludes cutting threads all the way to the base.
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