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Topic: Pull Release changer |
Jimmy Gibson
From: Cornwall, England
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Posted 21 Oct 2013 2:56 am
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I am in the process of putting a steel back together,I think I know but not sure how to set the pull release changes that raise and lower the same strings, but thought I would ask if I have got it right,
What I intend to do is the pulls that raise and lower the same string have is to have the finger held in the centre of the changer by a spring just strong enough to hold it central. If this is not the way it works.
and If there is any other way of doing this I would be very grateful for any idea`s and help..
Thanks Jimmy. |
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 21 Oct 2013 4:02 am
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The most common way is to attach a return spring to the lowering release rod. The open note is tuned either by adjusting the unloaded stop on the lever, or by putting a tuning screw on the lowering rod. The lowered note gets tuned by a screw in the body or endplate.
Make sense? _________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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richard burton
From: Britain
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Posted 21 Oct 2013 10:42 am
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 21 Oct 2013 11:52 am
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My Marlen varied slightly from Richard's diagram in one convenient aspect. See the fixed collar on the lowering rod at the finger on his diagram (a very helpful one)? Mine had the rod threaded, and a tuning nut in lieu of the fixed collar. That way opens tuned at the endplate, and the only notes tuned under the guitar were the F lever and the half stop at D on the second string.
If I were rebuilding from scratch, I'd consider that sort of arrangement. _________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Jimmy Gibson
From: Cornwall, England
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Posted 22 Oct 2013 1:20 am P/R Changer.
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Thanks Richard and lane for your help, that's nearly the way I had intended to do the raise and lowers of the same string with a couple of improvements ,as Lane said I have also threaded the ends of all the pull rods and using nylon tuners then the pulls can be fine tuned and the locking collars are not needed on the raises,
The lowers I have put an extra helper spacer that is put up against the finger so it will act as a push to help the lowers. Similar to Emmons works very well.
I also used an adjustable spring to centre the changer fingers.
Thanks again for your idea`s
Jimmy.. |
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Jimmy Gibson
From: Cornwall, England
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Posted 23 Oct 2013 1:15 am P/R Changer.
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How about this I thought I would try a mod on this pull release changer on the strings that raised and lowered the same string.
What I did was make up a couple of spare changer fingers then I cut them in two drilled 3 holes in each one to hook the pull rods with stainless steel wire , fitted them to the steel and made the two E`s into a push pull system similar to the Emmons system and it works absolutely great.
I forgot to add I had to drill and tap a small thread into the lower finger and put a small plate so when the lower was pushed it made contact with side of the raise finger with the string pin.
Now I know it works I May make up the other fingers and do the same that is if I need to raise and lower the same strings.
Jimmy..
Last edited by Jimmy Gibson on 24 Oct 2013 12:32 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Henry Matthews
From: Texarkana, Ark USA
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Posted 23 Oct 2013 12:25 pm
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Don't seem to understand all about a pull release system and I'm just courious as to how all the slack works that you have to have as illustrated in this pic where I circled.
_________________ Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
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Jimmy Gibson
From: Cornwall, England
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Posted 23 Oct 2013 12:40 pm
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Henry,you need the slack on the raises to allow the lowers to be able to lower, that is why the changer finger has to be held in the centre of the changer with a spring to allow room to lower and raise the same string.
Hope you understand the system a bit better now.
Jimmy. |
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Henry Matthews
From: Texarkana, Ark USA
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Posted 23 Oct 2013 2:49 pm
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I think I see. Need slack only for strings that are lowed and raised. If just raising, you don't need that slack. Is that correct? _________________ Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 23 Oct 2013 2:59 pm
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Correct, Henry. It's kinda like your PPs, but instead of a dedicated lowering finger, there's a separate rod that handles the lowers, attached to the finger. _________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Henry Matthews
From: Texarkana, Ark USA
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Posted 23 Oct 2013 5:59 pm
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Thanks y'all, just wasn't sure how they worked but understand now. _________________ Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
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