Tuning the beast

Bill Duncan · From: Lenoir, North Carolina, USA

This sounds so basic and simple but, tuning carefully can make a tremendous difference in the guitars tone.

I am speaking to me and about me but, something so basic can make a big difference! I get so busy picking and trying to learn new things I tend to forget the basics. The areas I tend to overlook are the raises and lowers. I always check the opens and then don't check the changes as I should. It builds and then I unconsciously start compensating with slants and fret offsets. Finally it dawns on me, TUNE THE DARN GUITAR!

As always, with me at least, it's the obvious, simple things "stupid".
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You can observe a lot just by looking

Jeff Metz Jr. · From: York, Pennsylvania, USA

Im right there with you! Im a beginner So Im still not 100% comfortable with tuning. Most of the time I leave the raises/lowers be so that I don't end up making them further off pitch haha. Im getting my first formal lesson this Sat so that will be the first thing I clear up.
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Mullen G2 SD10 , Lil Izzy Buffer, Goodrich 120 volume pedal, Boss DD-7, Peterson Strobo flip, Peavey Nashville 112

Scott Duckworth · From: Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies

Most pedal steels have a set of instructions that detail how to tune what, and it usually works well. If you don't have that, post your make and model and ask. Some one (Lane Gray) helped me immensely when I was learning how to tune my old Marlen.

Also, most steels won't sound right tuned "straight up". The tuning needs to be "tempered", with some strings / changes flat or sharp. I recommend two charts, try both, and use the one that sounds the best.

The Jeffran College charts:
http://www.jeffran.com/tuning.php

The Emmons Tempered Tuning Chart:
http://www.buddyemmons.com/ttchart.htm

You will need a tuner that reads in cents or hertz, depending on the chart you use. When I started, I used a free computer software based tuner.

Once you get the changes tuned, you can usually just tweak the keyhead until you change strings, unless you have a really sorry built guitar.

Of course, all of this is my opinion, feel free to make it your own! Rolling Eyes

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Amateur Radio Operator NA4IT (Extra)
http://www.qsl.net/na4it

I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus!

CrowBear Schmitt · From: Ariege, - PairO'knees, - France

Tempered tunings suits the psg best Bill
many use the " Jeff Newman tuning chart " as the ref
Peterson tuners uses it
Emmons tuning chart as mentioned above is good too
since each psg is " unique " i would recommend you learn how to tune via harmonics
(this was often used before tuners)
take your time, hear & understand the process/notes
you're not going to get all down in one shot
as you go through that process of tuning, save each string, lever & pedals
either write them down or save them in your tuner
here's a link :
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=1902111#1902111

Hope this helps

Bill Duncan · From: Lenoir, North Carolina, USA

I tune my E's on e9, and C's on c6 dead on, then tune everything else by ear. My problem is just not paying enough attention to the raise and lowers, as they don't get out that often.
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You can observe a lot just by looking

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I make it a habit of the following procedure:
Tune opens;
Check the pedal combinations by playing the chords (if it's not too noisy). That's MUCH faster than checking evvery change, and they usually don't go out of tune.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Jerry Kippola · From: UP Michigan, USA

I always retune everything after a string change, as 2 strings are never exactly the same. More and more I find the best way to tuning nirvana is to plug in my bosstone and champ and tune triads and pairs so that the resulting bass tone created by the distortion is correct for the interval. That tone is really there anyway, at a much lesser extent thru my playing amp. I start w/ Newman's recommendations--but this really fine tunes it. And no chart is exactly equal to every guitar.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Sonny Jenkins · From: Texas Masonic Retirement Center,,,Arlington Tx

On Buddy's tuning charts as referenced above http://www.buddyemmons.com/ttchart.htm are his Es at 0 based on 440,,,or 442?

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

That's the nice thing of talking cents v. Hertz.
Either way, it works, since either way you want the thirds a bit flat of ET.
(Not to mention that if E were 440, then your As would be at 590 or something). I'm pretty sure the Emmons chart puts A=440, since that chart is older than the popularity of A=442.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Billy Carr · From: Seminary, Mississippi, USA (deceased)

I tune everything to a tuner first, open. Then I usually start with pedal #1 and fine tune the pulls/lowers at the changer end. Fine tuning is easier to do at home before a gig. I don't want a tuning issue whenever I'm out playing somewhere. I tune pedals/KL'ers by ear. Using the same brand and gauges of strings also helps eliminate tuning problems. I've taken some time away from playing but when I do start back, my strings of choice will be the new "Live Steel Strings" only.

Chris Walke · From: St Charles, IL

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Probably the chordal uses differ: 1 will get used as a fifth to B, therefore will run a titch sharp.
The 7th will get used as a third against D, which I thought was a bit flat itself. Any single note stuff will be less critical.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

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