Need Help With Dekley

James Wolf · From: Georgia

It looks like i'm hanging by a thread with the b pedal stop where the rod hooks up. Are these parts available anywhere? Two knee levers appear to use the same ones as stops but i'm thinking it might take some pretty serious dissasembly to switch them out. Any advice?

James Wolf · From: Georgia

Well I started taking it apart. Having issues. Some of the 40 year old parts simple do not want to come off. Right now I'm stuck with a stripped Allen bolt that attaches a bell crank that I'm afraid I have stripped. Grrr. Although its a pre slimline it looks like slimline cross shafted will fit fortunately. I'll post pic in a minute.

James Wolf · From: Georgia

I guess the real help I need is finding these pieces. I'm hoping I can find three? But I'll take anything I can get. Can anyone locate these?

Ray Anderson · From: Jenkins, Kentucky USA

I changed set up on my D-10 pre slimline and it was a chore. I stripped some allens and had to drill them out. Always use top name allen wrenches as the set screws have what appeared to be Loc-tite on them. I had better success with topnotch wrenches on the others. I did not reuse the set screws, I replaced them. I feel for you on this one, but not impossible.

Richard Smelker · From: Winters.Texas, USA

Ray,
You might try this website - they carry parts for almost every steel out there. I have bought parts for my Sho-Bud from them. And just got my new big tuning wrench today in the mail.

http://www.psgparts.com/main.sc
_________________
Richard Smelker
assorted 6 & 12 string guitars, a Pedalmaster D10 8+5 to play on, a Roland Cube 80Xl, a Peavey 130, Digitech digital Delay, distortion pedal, Melotron pedal, Keyboards and a MOYO pedal.
A new DAW system that I'm using to create a Christian music CD of original songs. Ordained Minister, Riding for the Brand of Jesus Christ.

James Wolf · From: Georgia

Yes I noticed that. They would have a pretty solid "snap" and then start turning. Why they have the loctite I have no idea. The design seems pretty sold. We're you able to reuse you bell cranks after you drilled the bolts out?

James Wolf · From: Georgia

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Contact forum member Jim Smith. He was with Dekley for some time. He would probably know if anyone has any replacement parts.

You can search posts with his name as author to find his contact info.

James Wolf · From: Georgia

Thanks jerry ill give it a try!

Ray Anderson · From: Jenkins, Kentucky USA

Yes James, I was able to drill and remove without damage or loss. I used 2 sizes of drill bits ( cobalt bits) and an "easy out" extractor. It is tedious work but doable,I also used Blaster on the shafts to lube them and help clean off the oxidation. These are very close machined parts and don't slide too easily. I also ran a threader and cleaned the threads so that future repairs would be easier. Open up a fresh can of patience, you'll need it. Laughing

James Wolf · From: Georgia

Haha ray. I know what you mean about those cross shafts. They are pretty dirty but I have been able to oil them and slide parts off. Luckily it's only two bolts stripped so far. I am hopeful. I do realize at this point all of the rods are fixing to come out and she's gonna get a major cleaning. Might as well since I've gone this far. Luckily I know a machinist that can help me

James Wolf · From: Georgia

I received a prompt email from micheal yahl. He is sending me a part to try tomorrow! Cheers to him!

Ray Anderson · From: Jenkins, Kentucky USA

James, you could spot weld that lever and redrill the hole. Could be an easy fix, probably a hour at most. That part could use a nylon bushing to prevent that from happening.

James Wolf · From: Georgia

Scott Duckworth · From: Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies

Look at http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/IGUS-Clip-Bearing-2MTF7 for bushings. You will need to make sure they are the same size, if not, look in their selection for another. I used these on the Marlen I had. They look like this one below...

_________________
Amateur Radio Operator NA4IT (Extra)
http://www.qsl.net/na4it

I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus!

James Wolf · From: Georgia

Thanks Scott. Of of my buds told me to seal it up with jb weld because with a hot weld the aluminum wouldn't hold up. So I'm gonna do that then drill a new hole. Maybe I can order some bushings first and then see what diameter I need the hole to be based on that

Scott Duckworth · From: Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies

Measure the diameter of the hole, and the diameter of the pedal rod. My holes were 1/4", and the rods a little smaller than 3/16". You need the inner hole to be slightly larger to facilitate inserting the pedal rod.
_________________
Amateur Radio Operator NA4IT (Extra)
http://www.qsl.net/na4it

I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus!

James Wolf · From: Georgia

The Dekley did not defeat me! The part micheal yahl found for me works like a charm. Got all the stops set shes fine tuned and plays like a dream. I think I would have been in a big mess if I hadnt read mickey adams post on tuning! Thanks everyone for your help.

chris ivey · From: california (deceased)

M - I - C.... K -E Y .... A-D-A-M-S...
mickey adams, mickey adams ... da da da da da da

Craig Baker · From: Eatonton, Georgia, USA - R.I.P.

How ironic that you had trouble with the Allen screws. Back in the early 1980s Jim Gurley brought a few Deckley guitars to one of the steel shows we hosted outside of Philadelphia. While chatting with Jim, he told me that he had formerly been employed by the Bristol Wrench Company, makers of Bristol and Allen wrenches and hex screws. He said Bristol Wrench was where he had learned his machining skills.

From an aircraft mechanic friend. . . As an alternative to Loctite, apply rubber-based contact cement to the threads. The screw will never come loose by itself, but you can always take it apart with no trouble.

Best regards,
Craig Baker

706-485-8792

cmbakerelectronics@gmail.com

C.M. Baker Electronics
P.O. Box 3965
Eatonton, GA 31024

Michael Yahl · From: Troy, Texas!

Glad that worked out for ya James.
_________________
"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp

PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/

Bo Legg · Posted 19 Jun 2013 5:32 pm

I've usually had good luck with one of these methods.

I have gotten a good pair of small vise grips around heads those striped out set screws and get them out if they are not ungodly too tight.

I have sawed a groove across the top of set screws and then used a straight screwdriver.

I have also removed a few with a good pair of side cutters by clamping one side of the cutter in hole at one of the hex corners and the other against the outside edge, clamp hard and twist.

James Wolf · From: Georgia

Yes those stop set screws were pretty easy to get out with vise grips. I don't have a pic right this minute, but it was the bell crank set screws that were the trouble makers. They don't have heads on them and the size is really small....1/16. All I could do was drill because there is nothing to grab

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