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Topic: Tightning legs for laps? |
Al Terhune
From:
Newcastle, WA
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Posted 8 Sep 2000 8:32 pm |
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The legs for my lap are a little loose where the threaded piece meets the leg. I'm tempted to find someone to put a small weld on there to keep it from moving -- I don't know if that's possible. Any suggestions on how to tighten them? They appear to have originally been "squeezed" at several points to make the connection solid. Help?
Much appreciated, Al. |
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Chris DeBarge
From:
Boston, Mass
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Posted 9 Sep 2000 3:40 am
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Al,
I have a leg that does that too. It's annoying but I never did anything about it. Spot welding sounds like a good idea, and I have another leg that someone did that to-works great. Or I guess you could drill a hole or two and tighten it up with screws. |
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c c johnson
From:
killeen,tx usa * R.I.P.
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Posted 9 Sep 2000 3:43 am
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If I am reading you right, the legs are loose when you screw them into the sockets.??? If so put a few turns of teflon tape around the leg threads and that should solve the problem. It has for me.
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Al Terhune
From:
Newcastle, WA
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Posted 9 Sep 2000 6:41 am
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Chris:
You actually have a leg someone spot-welded? Well, maybe that's the way to go. I'm scared to do the screw in the leg -- but, you know, that might be the cheapest (because I don't know any welders and would have to pay to have it done). What does anyone out there think about putting in a little screw to tighten the joint?
cc: Actually, I didn't describe it well enough. It's not where the threaded portion of the leg fits into the socket, it's where the threaded portion fits into the leg that's loose.
Al |
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Dana Duplan
From:
Ramona, CA
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Posted 9 Sep 2000 7:50 am
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You could try some Loctite thread sealant or something similar, vs welding.
DD |
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Bob Stone
From:
Gainesville, FL, USA
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Posted 11 Sep 2000 7:39 am
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My metalsmith friend Jim Heiser (the man who made a beautiful replica of a missing decorative metal plate for my Bakelite Ric) welded up a leg with a loose threaded insert for veteran sacred steeler Henry Nelson. Jim gas welded a small bead all the way around--a little overkill, maybe. He painted over the weld with aluminum paint for decent cosmetics (there was still some visible heat discoloration). Nelson's steel, a 60s Fender DeLuxe 8, is really rough looking from 35 years of very hard playing, so keeping things pristine wasn't really a consideration. Also, because he always plays sitting, with the steel's legs at their shortest, the repair is not seen.
Another method that might work is to line-drill drill the leg/insert assembly and press in a stainless steel dowel. That repair would be nearly invisible. I'm not sure Loctite would hold--maybe I'm wrong--but superglue probably would. |
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Fred Layman
From:
Springfield, Missouri USA
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Posted 11 Sep 2000 12:55 pm
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My experience in trying to drill and insert holding screws would lead me to use that as a last alternative. One screw rarely does it and you have to use 3/4 screws to eliminate right-left and backward and forward movement. The threaded stud is normally very hard steel and difficult to drill and thread for a screw.
Try plumber's teflon tape, wrapping several rounds around the part of the stud that inserts into the leg. There is also a permanent type of Locktite that gets very hard. |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 11 Sep 2000 1:38 pm
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This was discussed a while back on the Technical section. Several mentioned success using Locktite. If it works on the pedal steels with all the stress and movement from pedals and knee levers it should work better on a non-pedal steel.
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Jim Smith
From:
Midlothian, TX, USA
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Posted 11 Sep 2000 1:54 pm
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If they're like pedal steel legs, this is what we did at Dekley and never had a problem with them coming loose again.
Loosen the leg clutch mechanism. Using the inner part of the leg or a broomstick, knock out the threaded plug. Set the knurled, non-threaded portion of the plug in a bench vise's jaws with the vise closed to about 2/3 of the plug's diameter. With a metal chisel, tap the plug hard enough to make a few grooves. At the same time the vise jaws will make corresponding grooves. Rotate the plug once or twice and repeat the tapping until you get a fairly consistent pattern of grooves around the plug. They don't have to be very deep. Clean the plug and the inside of the leg with rubbing alcohol, then put a light coating (5 or 6 drops) of Loctite 272 (the permanent red stuff) on the plug. Either partially thread a nut onto the threads or use a piece of wood on the threads and tap the plug back into the leg. Wipe off the excess Loctite, and let it set overnight or at least a few hours, and your leg is as good as new.
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Jim Smith
-=Dekley D-12 10&12=-
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