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Topic: Tuning Nylon Tuners With Pedals Pressed Down, Problem or Not |
Gordon Hartin
From: Durham, NC
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Posted 11 Oct 2011 12:00 pm
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When tuning the knee levers and pedals, do most people release the pedals before they tune them, or turn the nylon tuners with the pedal they are tuning engaged. If they are tuning to beats...
Wondering if tuning with pedals engaged strips out the nylon tuners or might not give the most accurate results.
Gordon |
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Doug Palmer
From: Greensboro, North Carolina, USA
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Posted 11 Oct 2011 12:16 pm tuning
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Gordon, I release my pedal or knee before turning the nylon hex. There is usually a small plastic spacer between the hex and changer finger and it just seems to me that less pressure on it is better.
DP _________________ Emmons D-10, ST-10,LD-10 III, NV-112,Fender Deluxe Reverb. Authorized wholesale dealer musicorp.com! |
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Georg Sørtun
From: Mandal, Agder, Norway
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Posted 11 Oct 2011 12:28 pm
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Turn the nylon tuners with the pedal/lever engaged. Then release. Pick some chords while engaging that and all other pedals/levers and checking tuning for beats. Fine-tune some more with pedal/lever engaged, if necessary.
Nylon tuners should last quite a few years, providing they are tight enough to begin with. If feeling loose, or that change has to be re-tuned often, it is probably time to clean the rod-thread and put on a new nylon nut. |
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Jeff Scott Brown
From: O'Fallon Missouri, USA
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Posted 19 Dec 2012 2:43 pm
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Doug says "I release my pedal or knee before turning the nylon hex". Georg says "Turn the nylon tuners with the pedal/lever engaged".
Is there a general consensus on which of these is preferable? If it matters, I am interested in particular as it relates to a GFI Ultra keyless.
Thanks for any advice.
JSB _________________ GFI Ultra S10 Keyless
Peavey Nashville 112
Goodrich L120, BJS, Peterson StroboPlus HD |
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 19 Dec 2012 3:07 pm
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I tune with pedals engaged. I suppose it MIGHT shorten the life of the nuts, but only marginally. _________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Jon Light
From: Saugerties, NY
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Posted 19 Dec 2012 3:25 pm
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I am specifically addressing tuning----not wear/tear. On all of my all-pull steels--Carter, Fessenden, Sho-Bud, BMI---if I tune to pitch with the pedal/lever engaged, when I release the pedal/lever and re-engage, the string will not be where I'd thought I'd tuned it. Ever. Therefore I accept this as a given and tune, not engaged, estimating where I want to get to, engage pedal, check tuning, repeat. Works for me. It's like when you are bringing a new string to pitch. Bring it to pitch, stretch string, bring it back to pitch , step on pedal, check, recheck. I never expect that tuning an engaged pedal/lever will be a simple or successful one-step procedure (although as you get the feel for the particular guitar, you get better at estimating) and I'm totally ok with the procedure I've described.
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Donny Hinson
From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 19 Dec 2012 4:06 pm
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I do it both ways, using the "no pedal" method to get close, and then sometimes use "pedal down" method for the really fine tuning. I do think it's important to "bump" the pedal or lever a few times after the fine-tuning to see if the tuning changes, as strings sometimes react differently to slow or fast tuning, due to hysteresis. |
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Jim Pitman
From: Waterbury Ctr. VT 05677 USA
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Posted 19 Dec 2012 5:36 pm
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Wow. We have a 50/50 split. Maybe we should do one of those voting arrangements.
I turn the nylon, then engage the pedal for the following reasons:
Tuning with pedal engaged does not represent the mechanical situation when you are actually playing the guitar. I theorize it's less accurate. Perhaps I should try it to debunk that theory.
Also, my nylon tuners are a very tight fit. Maybe my guitar is not typical, but overcoming that initial static friction usually causes me to overshoot. Engaging the pedal first would add even more static friction which will require more rotational force which increases the odds I overshoot. In fact some of my nylon nuts are so tight the rod twists when I turn them which adds another source of error momentarily. |
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Bob Cox
From: Buckeye State
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Posted 19 Dec 2012 5:47 pm
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with pedals down. If you tune released you can go to far or to less and it becomes more of a chase |
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Richard Sinkler
From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 19 Dec 2012 5:51 pm
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Pedals engaged. Never have any problems with my Carter. _________________ Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 54 years and still counting. |
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Jeff Scott Brown
From: O'Fallon Missouri, USA
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Posted 19 Dec 2012 6:32 pm
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Jim Pitman wrote: |
Wow. We have a 50/50 split. Maybe we should do one of those voting arrangements. |
Poll is at http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=238115. _________________ GFI Ultra S10 Keyless
Peavey Nashville 112
Goodrich L120, BJS, Peterson StroboPlus HD |
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Jerry Overstreet
From: Louisville Ky
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Posted 19 Dec 2012 7:11 pm
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I don't know how else to tune a pedal unless it's engaged. What would you do? Tune a little, push the pedal....nope too much, let up... loosen a little, push the pedal....nope not enough....Repeat as necessary?
I have to listen to the pedaled note being tuned in relation to the other strings.
Then there's detuning of unpedaled strings sometimes when a pedal on another string is in.
Whatever works for you, of course. |
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Jeff Scott Brown
From: O'Fallon Missouri, USA
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Posted 19 Dec 2012 7:12 pm
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Jerry Overstreet wrote: |
I don't know how else to tune a pedal unless it's engaged. What would you do? Tune a little, push the pedal....nope too much, let up... loosen a little, push the pedal....nope not enough....Repeat as necessary?
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Basically, yes. I think that is the proposed alternative.
JSB _________________ GFI Ultra S10 Keyless
Peavey Nashville 112
Goodrich L120, BJS, Peterson StroboPlus HD |
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Georg Sørtun
From: Mandal, Agder, Norway
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Posted 19 Dec 2012 7:26 pm
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Jeff Scott Brown wrote: |
If it matters, I am interested in particular as it relates to a GFI Ultra keyless. |
Would say it doesn't matter. I tune pulls the same on my GFI Ultra keyless as on my Dekleys and MSA. If anything; the nylon nuts started out a bit tighter on the GFI, so slightly harder to turn them and stop exactly in tune. |
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CrowBear Schmitt
From: Ariege, - PairO'knees, - France
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Posted 20 Dec 2012 1:30 am
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with pedals & levers engaged - i hear the note being tuned
then release
push pedal or lever a couple of times
& fine tune
never tuned or tried without them being engaged
only the feel stop on string 2 Eb to D on string 9 tuner |
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Dickie Whitley
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Posted 20 Dec 2012 3:29 am
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I'm sorry but I fail to see the logic in this. People have been tuning their steels for years with the pedals/knee levers engaged for tuning, Jeff Newman even shows this on one of his videos. I have to disagree with this "hunt and peck" method of tuning, which to me, involves more work and little or perhaps no gain. Tune it pedals/knees engaged, fine tune a little more if needed and get to playing/practicing. To me, this is much ado about nothing, sorry to disagree. |
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Larry Bell
From: Englewood, Florida
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Posted 20 Dec 2012 7:26 am
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Simply put: IT DOESN'T MATTER AS LONG AS IT IS IN TUNE WHEN YOU'RE DONE
As CrowBear says, any time a pull is adjusted you should check the open and changed note SEVERAL TIMES. This will let you know if the open (unpulled) note has changed, which might require more pedal or lever throw -- and give you FITS on a gig.
I have never heard of tuning a pull without the pedal or lever engaged.
FWIW _________________ Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
My CD's: 'I've Got Friends in COLD Places' - 'Pedal Steel Guitar'
2021 Rittenberry S/D-12 8x7, 1976 Emmons S/D-12 7x6, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Quilter ToneBlock 202 TT-12 |
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Jeff Scott Brown
From: O'Fallon Missouri, USA
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Posted 20 Dec 2012 11:00 am
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Dickie Whitley wrote: |
To me, this is much ado about nothing |
It seems like a reasonable question from folks who don't know the answer (like me) and folks offering their answer to the question. The discussion seems useful to me. I wouldn't say it is about nothing. Sorry for the trouble.
JSB _________________ GFI Ultra S10 Keyless
Peavey Nashville 112
Goodrich L120, BJS, Peterson StroboPlus HD |
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richard burton
From: Britain
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Posted 20 Dec 2012 11:17 am farty towels
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Perhaps it's because of my engineering background, but I always release the pedals/levers before adjusting the nylon tuners, to avoid the possibility of chewing up the end of the tuner. |
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John Peay
From: Cumming, Georgia USA
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Posted 20 Dec 2012 12:11 pm
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richard burton wrote: |
Perhaps it's because of my engineering background, but I always release the pedals/levers before adjusting the nylon tuners, to avoid the possibility of chewing up the end of the tuner. |
I’m the same, Richard….
But I also totally agree with this:
Larry Bell wrote: |
Simply put: IT DOESN'T MATTER AS LONG AS IT IS IN TUNE WHEN YOU'RE DONE |
But I’m a newb, so what do I know?! Well, I know when guys like Larry and Richard post, I listen! |
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James Holland
From: Alabama, USA
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 7:22 am
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As far as tuning accuracy, I don't think it matters, since you have to check/adjust for both engaged and disengaged. And, I always check more than once, to correct for hysteresis, I think its called?
Several professionals and experts advise against tuning while engaged, because it causes excessive wear on components. So I would like to know, if tuning while engaged accelerates wear or deteriorates nylon nuts? I'm looking for peer-reviewed results, as opposed to theories |
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Georg Sørtun
From: Mandal, Agder, Norway
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 8:30 am
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James Holland wrote: |
So I would like to know, if tuning while engaged accelerates wear or deteriorates nylon nuts? |
Yes. There are "chewing marks" from the nylon rubbing against the rod-hole edges on some nuts on my 30 some years old PSG. Have replaced a few in later years, and used a knife to clean up a couple of others. |
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Larry Bell
From: Englewood, Florida
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 9:13 am
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Nylon tuning nuts are less than $5US a pop. Replace one if it's worn.
I'm peer reviewed over 40 years of playing several gigs every week. I can only recall replacing ONE tuning nut on DOZENS of guitars I've owned, some of which I played for 20 years or more as my only axe.
Again, FWIW _________________ Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
My CD's: 'I've Got Friends in COLD Places' - 'Pedal Steel Guitar'
2021 Rittenberry S/D-12 8x7, 1976 Emmons S/D-12 7x6, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Quilter ToneBlock 202 TT-12 |
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Mark van Allen
From: Watkinsville, Ga. USA
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 9:17 am
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I'll throw in on the "if it works, it's right" side... with a couple of caveats.
If there is a small or slow wear to the nylon tuners, frankly they're replaceable for low $ so doesn't seem like much of a reason for care. However, if there are tiny ledges or bits worn off that could catch on the edges of the changer arm or rod hole, might be something that affects this issue. Close inspection should reveal the potential.
Since the tuning is related to the lever/pedal being engaged, logic seems to require tuning the pull while engaged.
I've owned/played many brands and models over the years, and some maintain rock-steady tuning when tuned while engaged, while others need some tweezing and repeated adjustment engaged, and not, to pull to pitch. I'm not entirely sure why that is.
Goofy instrument. _________________ Stop by the Steel Store at: www.markvanallen.com
www.musicfarmstudio.com |
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Dickie Whitley
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Posted 21 Dec 2012 3:48 pm
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JSB, it was not meant to sound as harsh as it may have come across, that's the trouble with writing as opposed to speech, it's hard to get the inflections.
Then again I may assume too much in thinking that people relatively new to steel have seen a Jeff Newman or Joe Wright DVD on the subject. I recommend their teaching materials highly, I have nearly all of Jeff and Joes video and book offerings and refer to them often. With all the instructional material they offer, no one should be "gropeing" in the "dark" about how to do things with the PSG.
...it was also early in the morning (before I got my daily dose of caffine), and in my confused state, I couldn't understand why anyone was worried over a cheap piece of plastic. Much like Larry (although not as many years), I've never had to replace a nylon tuner. YMMV.
My apologies if I came across as a grumpy old man (I am old, but usually not grumpy). |
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