Second build in progress

Don McGregor · From: Memphis, Tennessee

Here, I'm having fun making a double 8 console using recycled end plates and key heads. This is just a dry fit to see how everything will look.
African Mahogany deck, w/Lacewood necks and side rails.
That's a test version in the photos of the laser etched, Lexan fingerboards provided by Mark Bracewell of Willow Glen Guitars. Nickel plated brass bridges by Ryan Rukavina, two pair of cut down MSA keyheads, and used aluminum endplates from a pedal steel. I'm installing Jerry Wallace TT8's, and have left enough room between the necks for a Tele style control plate that will have Volume, Tone, and a 3-way switch. The far neck is 3/4" higher than the near one. This is something I'm trying. I think I find more difference in neck heights than you usually have on console feels better to my style of moving the bar around.
Lot of work left to do.
I still have to drill all the screw holes, glue up the decks and rails, a lot of final sanding, finish shaping the brass nuts, apply my sanding sealer and nitro, polish up all the hardware, install everything, and wire it.
I'm learning a lot during the process. Deciding to install controls has made this project a lot more complicated. Everything has to fit into a limited space.[/img]

Rick Barnhart · From: Arizona, USA

Just gorgeous, Don. Boy, some contrasting inlayed fret lines would look awesome in place of that lexan overlay. Great job
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Clinesmith consoles D-8/6 5 pedal, D-8 3 pedal & A25 Frypan, Pettingill Teardrop, & P8 Deluxe.

Don McGregor · From: Memphis, Tennessee

Thanks Rick.
I do think about using different fingerboards for this project, and have thought long and hard about simple, inlaid lines. A wooden, bound fingerboard could be really nice, too, but I don't want to hide too much of the Lacewood. Along with the Lexan fretboards, Mark sent a couple of scraps for me to experiment with by trying different colors to stain the etched markers, and I think with the right color, or colors, the over all look will be quite nice.
I am also still wrestling with whether or not to do any inlay strips on the rails or edges of the necks. As this is the first of several I hope to build similar to this, I sort of think of it as a prototype, and just want to get'er done.

Tom Pettingill · From: California, USA (deceased)

Looking good Don, that lacewood will finish out nice!

Kekoa Blanchet · From: Kaua'i

Tommy Huff · From: Texas, USA

all-parts in Houston has those exact pots and knobs. ask for Phil

Hal Braun · From: Eustis, Florida, USA

If I am looking at the picture right you are going to run the strings through the back of the bridge.. Maybe you could cover the openings from the pedal steel with a plate and do something like I had Bill R. do with my controls mounted on the end plate..

Works out pretty well unless you want to try and do volume swells with the knob instead of a pedal.

My volume is closest to me, tone is away.. Switch toggles back neck, both, front neck.. and is a standard Gibson Les Paul "L" Switchcraft toggle switch.. the pots are standard CTS with solid brass shafts, and the knobs are knurled tele knobs.. standard jack.. all those parts available at any Guitar Center or other guitar store..

Good luck!

Don McGregor · From: Memphis, Tennessee

Thank you Tom and Tommy. The concentric controls look like they could work well with swells or boo-wah, too. I will definitely look into using them on future builds. Tom, I learn a lot from looking at all the astounding instruments you build.
Hal,
That's a gorgeous instrument!
Is that your Williams? Is it factory? I'd love to see more pictures of it.
I've been having a hard time finding console end plates without pedal adjustment holes in the end, hence the recycle.
I've thought of recessing the pots inside the end plate cavities, as I don't currently use them for effects. I do have a project on the boards for a friend who wants boo-wah and pot swells, so I am dropping the controls between necks on this first one to see how this works out. I think they'll be out of the way, yet accessible if anyone wanted to do play with them.
BTW, are those Lawrence pickups? I like the liveliness of Wallace pickups, but am still thinking about putting E-66's in this one. It not too late to alter the rout for the George L screw tabs, and I've already got a template. I could always drop the Wallace ones back in.
Yes, these bridges Ryan Rukavina made for me are wrap around with through holes. They're really pretty, and I think they'll work well.

Hal Braun · From: Eustis, Florida, USA

Sorry for the delay, holidays! Very Happy

I live in MN and went up to visit Bill Rudolph at Williams and told him I wanted a console straight steel and we came up with this design based on his existing pedal steel. He "repurposed" as much of his pedal steel stuff as possible and changed the design of the key head and bridge as well not milling out the end piece castings.

I will tell you they are works of art, but not inexpensive. Those are the Bill Lawrence 705 reissue pickups, in the 10 string length, so the blades cover the width of the eight strings at 3/8" spacing at the bridge. They sound fantastic, and are very even string to string. Strangely enough, they do no sound too "pedal steelish" but have a beautiful rich tone. I originally tried they Geo L's, but those did sound too much like a pedal steel without pedals to my ear.

I have had several steel players over (including some pro's) that feel this is one of the best playing/sounding modern steels they ever played. And it is pretty easy on the eyes Smile

He even included legs that extend high enough to play standing up.. Just a wonderful guitar that I wish I could make full use of its capabilities.

If you get me your email, I will bore you with some more pics..

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