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Post new topic Repairing broken Ricky B6 Bakelite neck.
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Author Topic:  Repairing broken Ricky B6 Bakelite neck.
Steve Wilson


From:
Morgan Hill, California, USA
Post  Posted 28 Aug 2012 8:09 pm    
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I just got in a war era B6(white plastic plates, string through bridge, two black knobs and jack on the audience side) that the neck snapped off of. My research here prompted me to order the red-boxed Acraglas for the repair. I also saw this jig that Howard Clark had made back in 2005 to repair one he had with a broken neck in the exact same place as the one I will be repairing.

I have been trying to contact Howard (to no avail) to see if he might consider loaning me the jig for a few days. Since it does not look like that will happen I was wondering if anyone has done this repair without a jig, or if someone else may have one they would consider loaning (or renting) to me. How much clamping pressure is needed? Any help much appreciated.
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Rick Aiello


From:
Berryville, VA USA
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2012 4:23 am    
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The red box Acraglas is good stuff ... But it has a very long cure time ... IE: need for complex clamping.

There are many modern structural adhesives ... That have varing cure times ...

I use a magnet bonder (Loctite 392) to secure NIBs oriented in a way that creates tremendous repulsions ... They are the only thing that can hold them ...

They are expensive but well worth the $$$ ...

Give thes guys a call ... http://www.rshughes.com/catalog/108890.html ... And they will recommend the correct product for the job.
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Ray Montee


From:
Portland, Oregon (deceased)
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2012 9:44 am     About Ric repairs....................
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I had a B-6 prewar arrive from Queensland Australia and upon opening the package saw that the neck was broken 'CLEAN'....in two, right where the body and neck come together.

I'm confident that what Mr. Aiello has to offer is of far more value that my own experience.

Lacking fancy tools and jigs and such, I simply coated both ends of the broken neck and allowed them to set up 'till tacky. I laid them inverted on a large sheet of flat plywood and pushed them together where they bonded successfully. It worked 100% and plays well to this day. I'd dust the two broken surfaces with a very light 'brush' in order to remove any particles that might otherwise affect the bonding process.

The compound you mention is the same one I used. I was referred to it by my long-time Texas friend
WAYNE TANNER who encouraged me to give it a try. It had been deemed 'salvage' by the insurance company so I had nothing to lose and came out with a great sounding little guitar.

GOOD LUCK.......to you!
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Steve Wilson


From:
Morgan Hill, California, USA
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2012 4:16 pm    
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Thanks Rick & Ray,
I have already ordered the acraglas so I will use it this time. Thanks for the tip on the alternatives though, Rick.

I believe the cure time on the acraglass is 3 days, so having some sort of clamping area where I can leave it undisturbed is important. I am envisioning a cross between the jig I saw and what Ray suggests. Thanks also for the cleaning tip. I have just the brush for it along with some compressed air. I will let you know how it turns out.
Again, thank very much!
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Steve Wilson


From:
Morgan Hill, California, USA
Post  Posted 30 Aug 2012 9:27 am     Repair Jig
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Here is what I came up with to clamp and stabilize the broken B6 neck. It was a clean break right behind the 10th fret where the neck leaves the body. I spent about an hour dry fitting and making sure everything lined up perfectly. The aluminum bar clamped to the table keeps the sides of the fretboard on either side of the break lined up. To keep the epoxy from running out the bottom I carefully taped the fretboard side of the neck together with aluminum tape. Then I hinged opened the neck into a V shape and lightly buttered both sides of the break with acraglas and carefully closed the V while aligning it in the jig. Lastly I slowly clamped allowing all of the squeeze out to come out on the sides and the top of the neck as you see it. Everything went pretty smooth. All the dry fitting was the trick. Now I just have to wait a couple days! Thanks to Rick and Ray for all the help on this!
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Tom Pettingill


From:
California, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 30 Aug 2012 11:44 am    
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Looks good Steve! Like anything, the key to a good job is in the prep.
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