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Post new topic how to remove Emmons Lashley LeGrande changer
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Author Topic:  how to remove Emmons Lashley LeGrande changer
Lynn Kasdorf


From:
Waterford Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 25 Apr 2012 5:13 pm    
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I could use some advice. My Lashley LeGrande E9 changer needs to come out for some cleaning and a finger replacement.

First I will make a rodding chart showing which changer hole and which bell crank hole, and take pics.

My real question is this. Can I leave the nylon adjusters where they are and loosen the hex screw at the bell crank, then pull the rod out? I figure I'd mark where the rod meets the bell crank with a sharpie to ease reassembly. Then I'll mark the rod with masking tape & sharpie.

How do you guys do it?

Then- are there any gotchas I'll discover when I take out the changer?
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Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 25 Apr 2012 5:48 pm    
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Lynn, Dont remember if the rods are straight one the end or if they have a 90 on the end to hook into bell crank. If straight you can do that .You can remove without taking of nylon tuners. 'Ive removed the changers on several guitars and have tried to take short cuts and found just easier to go all the way. I'm pretty sure you have to remove neck also to get changer out.
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Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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Lynn Kasdorf


From:
Waterford Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 25 Apr 2012 5:53 pm    
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Henry Matthews wrote:
Lynn, Dont remember if the rods are straight one the end or if they have a 90 on the end to hook into bell crank. If straight you can do that .You can remove without taking of nylon tuners. 'Ive removed the changers on several guitars and have tried to take short cuts and found just easier to go all the way. I'm pretty sure you have to remove neck also to get changer out.

Mine has mostly the old 4 hole bell cranks, but there a couple 14 hole bell cranks, so yes, they wouldn't pull through.
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Mike Archer


From:
church hill tn
Post  Posted 26 Apr 2012 4:05 pm     deleted
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Last edited by Mike Archer on 27 Apr 2012 12:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Lynn Kasdorf


From:
Waterford Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 26 Apr 2012 4:09 pm    
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Keeping track of which rods go where is only part of the task- I'm thinking that it will be useful to record where along the rod it is attached to the bell crank. I think a sharpie mark on both sides of the round piece will help during reassembly.
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post  Posted 26 Apr 2012 6:33 pm    
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Lynn Kasdorf wrote:
Keeping track of which rods go where is only part of the task- I'm thinking that it will be useful to record where along the rod it is attached to the bell crank. I think a sharpie mark on both sides of the round piece will help during reassembly.


Lynn, I think you're making it too hard.

For 4 hole bellcranks: Don't worry about marking each rod. If you make a chart of all the changer & bell crank positions, that should suffice. The position of the rods through the bell crank will be self explanatory. You want to leave only a small amt of slack (1/16" or so) at the open note. Since you are not changing any of the "stops" the rod connection at the bell crank will sort itself out.

If they are 14 hole bell cranks, it's even simpler. The rods are fixed by the bent end at the crank. Tighten the plastic tuners, at the changer, until the change is in pitch. Adjust the stops only if needed.
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Lynn Kasdorf


From:
Waterford Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 26 Apr 2012 6:43 pm    
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Tony Glassman wrote:


Lynn, I think you're making it too hard.


Excellent info, Tony- Thanks!
Yes, I do tend to make things too hard and over-think the problem. It is the German engineer in me...
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Henry Matthews


From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
Post  Posted 26 Apr 2012 7:01 pm    
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Tony is right on. Also, if you do have to take neck off to remove changer, when putting back on, just seat the neck screws. If you tighten them to much, it will kill the tone of the guitar. It's really not that big a deal to do. When I remove a changer, I just get an electric drill with a nut driver and go at it. Then take rods loose from bell cranks and pull out.
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Henry Matthews

D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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