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Topic: Best Contact Cement for Tolex |
Carl Kilmer
From:
East Central, Illinois
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Posted 6 Apr 2012 12:01 pm |
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Hi Guys, my new speaker cabinets will be here next week.
I was thinking of staining and varnishing them, but then
a good friend gave me some nice black Tolex to cover them.
I just need to know what is the best contact cement to use.
I have a can of Weldwood Contact Cement that I've used for
other projects like seats and pads. Will this kind work ok
for speaker cabinets or should I look for something better.
Thanks for any recommendations.   Carl
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_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal |
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Melvin Elliott
From:
Mississippi, USA
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Posted 6 Apr 2012 1:28 pm
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I'm sure the Weldwood will do the job. I use 3M
Spray adhesive because I'm lazy. |
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Tim Marcus
From:
San Francisco, CA
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Posted 6 Apr 2012 2:33 pm
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I keep a can of spray 77 in the shop for touch ups, not sure if thats great for an entire job though
_________________
Milkmansound.com |
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Tommy Boswell
From:
Virginia, USA
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Posted 6 Apr 2012 5:48 pm
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| I think the Weldwood comes in a couple of different formulas. I use the Gel for tolex on speaker cabs, works great. And if there's a little glue showing at the edge of an overlap seam, it rubs right off after it dries. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 6 Apr 2012 6:10 pm
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I've never used it on Tolex, but I do know the non-flammable (green cans) doesn't work nearly as well. I've used it for similar applications, and I'd use the red regular stuff in liquid or gel without reservation.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 7 Apr 2012 2:09 am
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| I use the regular Tolex glue sold by Antique Radio (www.tubesandmore.com). Other places also sell it. |
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Carl Kilmer
From:
East Central, Illinois
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Posted 8 Apr 2012 6:32 am
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Hey fellows, Many thanks for all of your good information.
The Weldwood I have is labeled "Original" Contact Cement.
I looked at the spray ones, and they look like they're easier,
but also cost a lot more, so I guess I've to try what I have.
Thanks again. Carl
_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal |
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Ransom Beers
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Posted 8 Apr 2012 2:41 pm
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| Carl Kilmer wrote: |
Hey fellows, Many thanks for all of your good information.
The Weldwood I have is labeled "Original" Contact Cement.
I looked at the spray ones, and they look like they're easier,
but also cost a lot more, so I guess I've to try what I have.
Thanks again. Carl |
DO NOT SNIFF THE GLUE!!!!! |
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Bill Moran
From:
Virginia, USA
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Posted 8 Apr 2012 3:02 pm
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| Jack Stoner wrote: |
| I use the regular Tolex glue sold by Antique Radio (www.tubesandmore.com). Other places also sell it. |
Jack has it right. That stuff sticks. Apply to the cab and the tolex. Let it disappear ( dry ) . Then when put together use a hair drier to smooth out or strech when necessary. It is bullet proof.
_________________
Bill |
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George McCann
From:
Maui, USA
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Posted 8 Apr 2012 3:49 pm
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Rick Johnson uses the water based contact cement but also uses a hair dryer to heat it up and get better adhesion. It seems to give him more time to work the glue. Rick has a DVD out that explains all you need to know and shows you a bunch of tricks/shortcuts.
_________________
As I've aged I've wondered why my mental powers haven't expanded like my waist line.
Rain SD-10, Fessy U-12,Harlow Dobro, Eastman 912 mandolin, Zhu Fiddle, guitars, gizmos and buu-kuu Amps |
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Rick Johnson
From:
Wheelwright, Ky USA
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Posted 10 Apr 2012 7:03 am
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[img]
I've had great success with this.....
Don't forgot to use a hair dryer too...
Rick
www.rickjohnsoncabinets.com
Last edited by Rick Johnson on 10 Apr 2012 7:38 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Carl Kilmer
From:
East Central, Illinois
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Posted 10 Apr 2012 7:26 am
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Hey guys, thanks again. I been in contact with George Seymour
for the last few days, and he suggested trying Black Minwax stain.
I got some yesterday, and did the cabs, and they do look great.
That sure is a lot quicker and easier than installing the Tolex. 
Carl
_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal
Last edited by Carl Kilmer on 10 Apr 2012 4:27 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Charlie Thompson
From:
South Carolina, USA
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Posted 10 Apr 2012 4:02 pm
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| Carl That sounds great..How bout some pics? |
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Carl Kilmer
From:
East Central, Illinois
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Posted 10 Apr 2012 4:38 pm
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Hi Charlie, haven't heard from you for a while.
The cabs are all finished except for putting on
the grill. Hopefully they will get here tomorrow.
I'll be gone most of the day, (going to jam with
a friend) but when I get home, I'll take pictures
and put them on here for all to see. They are nice.
Carl
_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal |
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Clete Ritta
From:
San Antonio, Texas
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Posted 10 Apr 2012 7:12 pm
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I use Weldwood with a brush as Rick J. recommends, but good results can be obtained using spray versions as well. If just doing small areas, the brush is easiest. Coat both surfaces, let it tack up for a few minutes then bond together. You can use tape or a heavy flat object to apply pressure if needed.
Clete |
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Carl Kilmer
From:
East Central, Illinois
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Posted 12 Apr 2012 1:50 pm Cabinet pictures
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Ok Charlie, I just tooks some pictures now that their done.
I won't put Tung oil on them until I get back from the show.
I think they look pretty good and really sound good too.
This is the actual color in light. Look at the Dove joints.
_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal |
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