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Author Topic:  Aluminum rod
chas smith R.I.P.


From:
Encino, CA, USA
Post  Posted 30 Dec 2011 1:25 pm    
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Quote:
Go to "onlinemetals.com" or "Speedymetals.com" and you can buy 6061 aluminum rod in 1/8 inch for almost nothing.
The thing with aluminum rods and bending, is the "T" number, which is the hardness number (actually it's how it was aged). 6061 T-6 is likely to crack at sharp bends and T-0 is soft, which bends easily. 1/8 steel welding rods are pretty easy to work with and 1/8 303 or 304 stainless rods are the "friendliest" of the stainless variety.
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Billy Carr

 

From:
Seminary, Mississippi, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 31 Dec 2011 12:16 am     pull rods
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How does brass hold up as pull rods? I see the new BMI's have brass rods. Thanks.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 31 Dec 2011 12:49 am    
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With brass being heavier than steel and more expensive than aluminum or brass, I wonder why they'd choose brass.
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Tony Smart

 

From:
Harlow. Essex. England
Post  Posted 3 Jan 2012 2:11 pm    
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Anybody tried working with Titanium rods?
I know MSA use them. Stronger than Ali, lighter than Steel, but pricey.

Tried to get some but the price is exorbitant here.
Tried the States but no-one ships worldwide. (unless anyone can correct me)
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Keith Russell


From:
Arkansas, USA
Post  Posted 3 Jan 2012 4:34 pm     Pull Rods
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Guys, I bought some 3ft. bronze coated welding rods at a local hardware store for a dollar each. They thread and bend easily and never tarnish and I may be wrong but I suspect this is what is under my BMI.
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Joe Naylor


From:
Avondale, Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 3 Jan 2012 5:44 pm     Why
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I agree with WHY

If you bend 6061-T6 Aluminum rod 90 degrees it will crack because it is heat treated. You man not see it right then but it WILL break in that bend. Same with the 7000 series Aluminum

2000 series is typically softer

Why not just use stainless - I have explained this before that what makes stainles steel stainless steel is nickel - it is not tougher it is softer and can be bent 90 degrees without cracking.

Don't even bring up the weight deal because in is very very little weight

Joe Naylor
www.steelseat.com
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Joe Naylor, Avondale, AZ (Phoenix) Announcer/Emcee owner www.steelseat.com *** OFFERING SEATS AND Effects cases with or without legs and other stuff ****** -Desert Rose Guitar S-10, Life Member of the Arizona Carport Pickers Assoc., Southwest Steel Guitar Assoc., Texas Steel Guitar Assoc., GA Steel Guitar Assoc., KS Steel Guitar Assoc. (Asleep at the Steel) tag line willed to me by a close late friend RIP
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chas smith R.I.P.


From:
Encino, CA, USA
Post  Posted 3 Jan 2012 6:02 pm    
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Quote:
Anybody tried working with Titanium rods?
I know MSA use them. Stronger than Ali, lighter than Steel, but pricey.

Tried to get some but the price is exorbitant here.
Tried the States but no-one ships worldwide.


Tony, I use Titanium Joe, which is surplus and it's still very pricey and, not to mention, "unfriendly" to work with. I can't afford retail.

http://www.titaniumjoe.com/
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Tony Smart

 

From:
Harlow. Essex. England
Post  Posted 4 Jan 2012 6:57 am    
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Thanks Chas.for the reply.

I tried Mcmaster-Carr and got the very curt reply,

1. We do not ship worldwide.
2, We will not fulfil your order.
3. We will not deal with you.

I got the message.
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Joe Naylor


From:
Avondale, Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 4 Jan 2012 7:06 am    
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Tony go to a welding supply store an get rod there is a good option.

Most in the UK are cash and carry - I have been there done that before.

Stainless steel will work.

Joe
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Joe Naylor, Avondale, AZ (Phoenix) Announcer/Emcee owner www.steelseat.com *** OFFERING SEATS AND Effects cases with or without legs and other stuff ****** -Desert Rose Guitar S-10, Life Member of the Arizona Carport Pickers Assoc., Southwest Steel Guitar Assoc., Texas Steel Guitar Assoc., GA Steel Guitar Assoc., KS Steel Guitar Assoc. (Asleep at the Steel) tag line willed to me by a close late friend RIP
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Tony Smart

 

From:
Harlow. Essex. England
Post  Posted 4 Jan 2012 7:08 am    
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Thanks Joe.
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Doug Earnest


From:
Branson, MO USA
Post  Posted 4 Jan 2012 7:11 am    
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ZumSteel did use aluminum rods for quite some time. The switch to steel rods was made several years ago.
It was explained to me that under extreme thermal conditions the aluminum rods could potentially create problems. The primary reasons for the change were to accomodate a new bellcrank design, and that manufacturing the aluminum rods with those stinking little pins through them was an ordeal.
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Tony Smart

 

From:
Harlow. Essex. England
Post  Posted 4 Jan 2012 7:47 am    
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My mate here in Harlow, Bob Haskell, has a Sho-Bud Professional which has the rack and barrel undercarriage. He bought it in the 70's and after only about 10 years the Aluminium rods were wearing through. (rubbing on the rack)

Being in the trade, I was able to remake them out of 1/8" stainless welding rod.

Since then I've always been wary of Ali. rods.


Last edited by Tony Smart on 5 Jan 2012 1:10 am; edited 2 times in total
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Ron Pruter

 

From:
Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 4 Jan 2012 1:24 pm     Tone?
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One question I have. I've a 73 Profesional, and in my brain, I've been weighing (no pun) the idea of going alum. rods just to lighten the load a tad. Being a tone freak, the fear of altering the tone my just keep me from doing that. Ron
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Joe Naylor


From:
Avondale, Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 4 Jan 2012 2:35 pm     weight
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Ron - waste of time (you will save ounces not pounds)

There is really not that much difference in weight.

and I go back to the breakage problem in the bend

my 2 ounces worth - and I ment the pun

Joe
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Joe Naylor, Avondale, AZ (Phoenix) Announcer/Emcee owner www.steelseat.com *** OFFERING SEATS AND Effects cases with or without legs and other stuff ****** -Desert Rose Guitar S-10, Life Member of the Arizona Carport Pickers Assoc., Southwest Steel Guitar Assoc., Texas Steel Guitar Assoc., GA Steel Guitar Assoc., KS Steel Guitar Assoc. (Asleep at the Steel) tag line willed to me by a close late friend RIP
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chas smith R.I.P.


From:
Encino, CA, USA
Post  Posted 5 Jan 2012 10:55 am    
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With the Professional, and the Permanent that I'm currently rebuilding, threading the 1/8 rod for 5-40 threads means finding a 5-40 die. Sho-Bud used a 6-40 die for some of the rods I've been having to work with.
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Tony Smart

 

From:
Harlow. Essex. England
Post  Posted 5 Jan 2012 12:52 pm    
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Chas. I've asked this question before on here.
Some builders, Sho-Bud and Franklin for instance use a 6-40 die, which doesn't give a full thread depth and is really meant for .138" rod, rather than a 5-40 or 5-44, which is the correct size for 1/8"

Perhaps someone can enlighten us this time?
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chas smith R.I.P.


From:
Encino, CA, USA
Post  Posted 5 Jan 2012 6:41 pm    
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Tony, the correct size for 1/8" is a 5-40. 6-40 is #6 fine thread, 6-32 is #6 coarse thread. Because 6,8 and 10 are common screw sizes, the taps and dies are easy to find.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 5 Jan 2012 8:25 pm    
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FWIW chas, you can find 5-40 dies here at reasonable prices. No experience with the company, I just ran across the site some time ago in a search.

I found 5-40 at my local Ace Hdwe. store.
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