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Topic: Dekley part 2: cleaning the changer |
Dan Beller-McKenna
From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
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Posted 29 Nov 2011 7:47 pm |
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After much helpful advice in communications with Georg Sortun, I held my breath and disassembled the Dekley (most of the way: haven't pulled the knee lever assemblies and cross shafts yet; still working on those %$^!#$@%! stripped Allen screws). I didn't pull the neck and pick up either: I don't really have any reason to, as far as I can tell.
Per the changer, one oddity was that the (nylon?) spacers at either end of the changer axle were unevenly distributed: four at one end, sixteen at the other (these are extremely thin spacers). What's up with that?? Also, should these be replaced?? Perhaps the biggest surprise was how little debris, gunk, what-not, there was in the changer. It was well lubed with little if any sign of dirt, or build up. Seems like the previous owner used a good quality lubricant. I test cleaned one finger assembly. It's not clear to me why, though: seems like I'm removing good lubrication just to put more on(?) I suppose there may be some hidden grit in there that could cause friction, and I guess it can't hurt to clean it off and start anew, right?
There are a few parts I'll need to think about replacing, however. The stop plate (as I knew before I bought the guitar just from looking) is pretty badly bowed. I imagine flattening it out will only further weaken the metal. Is it worth getting a shop to make a replacement part, perhaps of stronger metal??
Also the bolts anchoring the changer to the body, and the screws holding the key heads on are all slightly twisted, presumably from all the force they absorb when the pedals and levers are activated. Worth changing? Will new straight ones not be a comfy fit in the twisted channels the old ones left?
Finally, the return springs are pretty beat. Does anyone carry these parts? They look a little too specialized to find at a hardware store.
Dan |
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Ken Byng
From:
Southampton, England
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Posted 30 Nov 2011 4:44 am
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Dan
I would post your anchor bracket to forummite Michael Yahl, to see if he could make you a replacement. He could also sell you replacement springs and adjusting bolts.
_________________
Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, |
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Michael Yahl
From:
Troy, Texas!
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Posted 30 Nov 2011 6:20 am
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Dan,
If you could spare the parts for about 7-10 days (total turn around) I would like to reverse engineer that plate, the spring assembly and a finger assembly.
I'd probably have to order some materials but could definately make you a replacement plate and springs.
Michael
_________________
"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp
PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/ |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 30 Nov 2011 6:39 am
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If someone has both a Dekley and a Zum, they could take some measurements for the springs and screws. They sure look close. That bar don't look familiar, though.
Michael is good: I'm a satisfied customer.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Ross Shafer
From:
Petaluma, California
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Posted 30 Nov 2011 9:15 am
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I've been machining and fabricating metal stuff for 35 years, I'd straighten that plate and slap it back on and make sure its mounted straight with even tension on the mounting screws. I'd be surprised if the bend is from normal use and would guess that something else caused the bowing (rough handling, uneven tension on the mounting screws or improper mounting). I definitely could be wrong, but I doubt you'll change the durability of that plate significantly (or at all) by carefully massaging it back to be straight.
I rebuilt the changer on a friend's Dekley. It had the same weird spacer distribution My pal thought the string spacing felt a bit narrow and when compared to other steels I had here, it was...I was able to redistribute all the washers evenly between the fingers to successfully widen the string spacing...as I recall it was still a tad narrow compared to the other steels, but closer than it had been. There just happened to be the exactly correct number of spacers to do this.
Again, if I'm recalling correctly, my pal told me he'd read (on the Dekley forum) that some of them had narrower spacing due to some narrower than planned pole spacing on some pick ups.
Happy Holidays! |
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George Duncan Sypert
From:
Colo Spgs, Co, USA
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Posted 30 Nov 2011 9:19 am Dekley
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Dan,
Contact Jim Smith in Ft Worth. He was involved with the production of these guitars. |
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Dan Beller-McKenna
From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
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Posted 30 Nov 2011 10:58 am
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Thanks for all the good advice folks.
I 'm gonna go ahead straighten and slap that plate back on.
The spacing is a bit narrower on my Dekley than my Fessenden. It's deceptive, because the Dekley neck is so wide; there's just a lot of empty space on the edges. I might try redistributing those spacers. They are so thin that I doubt it can make much of a difference.
Still not having any luck with those stripped screws. I think the epoxy trick is in my future. :0(
Dan |
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 30 Nov 2011 4:18 pm
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Dan, Have Mike Yahl make you a new adjustable spring plate.. his work is spectacular... bob
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 30 Nov 2011 5:12 pm
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| There's a great product from DAP. Can't find my bottle of it at this moment. But it's made to fix loose joints in chair rails, etc.. A couple of drops in a screw hole swells the wood back up, and lets screws fit very tightly. |
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