Knee Levers and Volume Balance on Emmons Student

Eruera Tait-Jamieson · From: Palmerston North, New Zealand

Hi all!

I'm new here, been fiddling around on an old Emmons Student model (any idea where I can find the serial on it???) and I was wondering where I can get hold of knee lever kits.

I currently have what b0b's E9 theory page calls the E lever, dropping my E's to D#'s, which is located by my right knee and pushed further to the right to actuate.

I'm looking to add a lever to retune those strings up 2 F's instead.

Is it more conventional to have these 2 located on the same side i.e. RKL to flatten and RKR to sharpen or have them on either side of the instrument?

I think I can live without the D pedal (dropping hi-D# to D) for now, but I keep wanting to get those F-naturals!

I am also having trouble with volume balance between strings, since the pickup has no adjustable pole pieces how can I fix this (apart from my own picking dynamics)? Are there adjustable pickups to fit this model?

Many thanks Very Happy

P.S. Sorry if I'm repeating a previous thread here, I have been browsing the forums for a while but haven't quite been able to find clear answers.
_________________
PSG: Emmon's Student 3+1, Roadhog Cables, Boss VP, Modified Epiphone VJr
EG: Epiphone Sheraton II w/SD P-Rails, Randall Modular 50w All-Valve, TC Gmaj2
AG: 1954 Hofner Diplomat Arch-top w/Schatten transducer, Tech21 Bronzewood
BG: Fender USA Jazz w/Nordstrand p/u, Kala UBass (fretless), Phil Jones Flightcase 300

Dave Grafe · From: Hudson River Valley NY

You have some worthy questions and as I am first in line here I will do what I can...

The Eb and F levers are both pretty important to get the most from the E9 tuning, a third lever to drop the 2nd string from Eb to D is close behind. The Eb lever yields a third location for the major 6/minor triad/major 7 chords within a given octave as well as providing a very useful dominant 7 option; the F lever provides a third location for the major triad and another very useful dominant 7 amongst other niceties, your yearning for the F lever is understandable, I for one would feel very limited without it.

I have a ShoBud Pro I with only two levers and both are on the right knee - RKL (Right Knee moving Left) lowers E's to Eb and RKR raises them to F. This is not all that common but has the advantage of keeping the knee levers independent of foot pedal action, and since you do not have to allow for the swing of the knee when rocking the A or B pedals these levers can be adjusted very close to the right (VP) knee, making for a very quick action when swinging from Eb to F and back on the 4 & 8 strings. As this is where the two primary dominant 7 locations are it is a meaningful advantage when playing passing chords.

The next step, in terms of a "conventional" setup, would be to move the E > F to LKL, where it can be operated in conjuntion with the A pedal to get that major triad, and leaving the E > Eb on RKL. You are then free to put the third common change, 2nd string Eb > D and 9 string D > Db, on your RKR (some folks take the 2 string down to Db as well). This is how many older 'Buds were set up and plenty of folks still prefer this arrangement, sometimes called the "ShoBud" setup, and you could play for years with very few limitations thusly.

The popular 4-knee "Emmons" setup generally moves the E > Eb lever to LKR and uses RKL for a 1st string F# > G# raise, also commonly dropping the 6 string G# to F# simultaneously, but at this point individual copedants vary widely. This is how my Emmons guitar is currently set up, although this last lever is the least used, often for "trick licks" rather than the moving chordal activity facilitated by the other pedals and levers.

The "Day" setup reverses the A,B & C pedals and most folks reverse the LKL and LKR accordingly, as the E > Eb lever is commonly used with the B pedal and the E > F lever with the A pedal but rarely the other way around.

I cannot speak to the ease - or lack thereof - of making changes on your student guitar, but knee lever kits are made and/or sold by several forum members, check the "For Sale" threads to see what you can find. If you continue to peruse the forum and learn about other players' preferences you will see that there are a lot of ways to do it, but there are some solid reasons for these particular pedal and lever locations to have become more-or-less standardized over the past fifty-odd years.

As for adjustable pickup poles no doubt there are options out there but I recommend that you just keep working on your right hand technique and you may find that this becomes a moot issue in time.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Stupid question time. Got new strings on it? Old strings go wonky with time and will play unbalanced.
Other than that, Dave has it covered
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Frank Montmarquet · From: The North Coast, New York, USA

I also have an old Emmons student model, serno should be on the underside of the end casting near the changer.

I had the same question about where to put the knee lever changes. Emmons put both the E to F and E to D# changes on the left side, presumably because since you will never use them at the same time they should be on the same knee. One of Paul Franklins setups has the E to D# on the RKL. with the 2/9 to C#s on the LKR. I have read an explanation why, but can't find the link. I have decided to go with the Emmons setup.

I have not been able to find knee levers or bell cranks. So it will be a home shop project. Will probably do something like this:

Use standard 5/16" round stock for cross shafts, use standard brass/bronze flange mounted bushings to mount. Will need some springs/washers for thrust bearing in the bushings. For bell cranks, file a flat spot on the shaft, use standard angle brackets, drill a hole in the shaft and bolt it on. For pulls just hook the rod through a hole in the bracket, I plan on using a turn buckle to adjust. For a push take a spare swivel from an existing bell crank and mount on the bracket. The levers will be made of wood and mounted with hinges. I will post a how to if and when I get to it. Probably in Jan or Feb.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Bobbe sells bellcranks

http://www.steelguitar.net/emmonsparts.html
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Frank Montmarquet · From: The North Coast, New York, USA

Out of stock.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I wonder if Jim Palenscar wouldn't have them. His site doesn't list all the stuff he's got.
I would imagine if Michael Yahl made them, they'd be on his site

I'm sure SOMEONE makes those, as well as the barrels for strings with multiple raises.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Eruera Tait-Jamieson · From: Palmerston North, New Zealand

Hi all, thanks for the great replies.

The strings are pretty new but have been corroding quickly in the spring humidity so I'll chuck some fresh ones on and see if that helps. I suspect my RH technique really.

Will follow up some of those leads on knee kits and hope something comes through.

Thanks again Smile

_________________
PSG: Emmon's Student 3+1, Roadhog Cables, Boss VP, Modified Epiphone VJr
EG: Epiphone Sheraton II w/SD P-Rails, Randall Modular 50w All-Valve, TC Gmaj2
AG: 1954 Hofner Diplomat Arch-top w/Schatten transducer, Tech21 Bronzewood
BG: Fender USA Jazz w/Nordstrand p/u, Kala UBass (fretless), Phil Jones Flightcase 300

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