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Topic: A different pedal/lever set-up for E9... |
Georg Sørtun
From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
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Posted 19 Sep 2011 10:15 pm |
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While modifying copedent on a GFI S10 3+5 to suit my preferences better, this is what I found most functional...
Have played it for a couple of days and ain't missing anything, but I am sure you can find some combinations/chords that are missing here ... comments welcome.
The most interesting might be that I can make a continuous change for E strings (4 and 8 ), from lower D# to raise F#, on left knee, instead of splitting raise and lower between left and right knee to achieve a continuous slide as some do. The "C" pedal has also disappeared since there's no need for it with the extended lever raise, IMO.
Am also lowering string 3 to F# along with string 6, and have split-tuned pedal 1 with pedal 0 to C for a functional roll-over from C# down to A with good timing of string 5 and 10. |
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Georg Sørtun
From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
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Posted 19 Sep 2011 10:32 pm
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Aside: I managed to make body-drop on the re-rodded GFI keyless inaudible by switching to heavier strings (Jagwire LG series). And reduced/eliminated hysteresis by pulling the strings up to near "in tune" before tightening the screw, thus making the gap between the tuning "slab" and the fixed nut-bolt really short.
Thought some might want to know. |
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Mike Perlowin
From:
Los Angeles CA
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Paul Sutherland
From:
Placerville, California
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Posted 19 Sep 2011 10:57 pm
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Interesting tuning!!
It seems that you might want to have the 4 & 8 whole tone raise on LKL, so that when you want to get the half tone raise (so called F lever), via the split with LKV, you would hit the LKL & LKV. That might make it easier to also engage pedal 1, for the ever popular A & F change. Right now it would appear you have to move your left knee to the right (and up), which makes for some fancy foot work to get to pedal A.
I don't have any splits on my old steel, so I am a bit envious of all you can make this steel do with relatively few pedals and levers. |
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Georg Sørtun
From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
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Posted 20 Sep 2011 5:09 am
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Mike, I started with a SIT .011, and ended up with a Jagwire LG .0115. Put in "overpull-compensators" on 3d and 6th string to be able to tune in a perfect G split between RKL and the B pedal, so third string actually gets lowered 1/8 tone or so below F# without that split-rod. Still have about 1/8 tone lower left in the changer for 3d string with both a .011 and a .0115.
Paul, after having test-played a while I actually moved the pedals a bit further to the left to get the most comfortable angle for my foot - pedals now more or less where I'm used to having them on a keyed PSG (my Dekleys). Because the LKV on the GFI is hinged on the left side and I didn't move or turn it, my knee slides nicely - almost touching - under LKV to activate LKL or LKR alone. The movement up and to the right to activate LKV and LKR in sync for E to F raise is effortless with or without activating the foot pedals.
I am used to having an E to F to F# lever which involves raising my knee to activate a stop-switch on my old preference PSG, so to me the "backwards" knee-movement while pushing levers feels natural.
I always put in split-rods to get the most out of all pedal/lever combinations. The GFI didn't have any splits originally. |
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