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Topic: Tuning and String Gauge for a Sierra Lap Steel? |
Doug Burling
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 7 Sep 2011 8:29 am |
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| Does anyone know what tuning and string gauges come stock on the Sierra Lap Steel? I would think it would be one of the C6 tuning's since it's such a popular tuning. I'm trying to figure out if I should go with gauges like the GeorgeBoards High G, C6 (011,014,017,020p,026w,032,038,046) or (011,014,017,022w,024,030,034,042). Knowing what the Sierra was originally set up for would be helpful because of the string slots on the bridge and nut. |
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Hal Stackhouse
From:
Muldrow, Oklahoma, USA
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Posted 7 Sep 2011 8:37 am Tuning On A Sierra Lap Steel
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Hi Doug, I am a Authorized Sierra Lap Steel Dealer. If you give Tom or who ever you order the steel through the tuning you want, such as C6 he will put the appropriate string guages and tuning on the guitar for you. I usually have C6 put on the guitars I order in. I currently have 3 guitars in stock and all are tuned C6. I use primarily C6 and A6 for most of what I play. But it is strictly a matter of your own preference. If you want more information or just discuss the guitar e-mail me with your phone number or ask for mine and I will send it to you. The string guages that mine usually come in with are from high to low E-.014/C-.017/A-.022/G-.024/E-.030/C-.036/A-.042/G-.048
Thanks
Hal |
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Doug Burling
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 7 Sep 2011 10:41 am
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| The E,C,A,G,E,C,A,G tuning looks like a simple solution for someone like me just starting out with C6 eight string lap steel. Since most of the tabs I'm finding are for C6 six string, it would play on the first strings rather than playing the middle strings on C6 high G. Maybe I'm wrong, but it looks like an easy fix. I have no idea how I would use the two lower strings on the bass side. |
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George Piburn
From:
The Land of Enchantment New Mexico
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Posted 7 Sep 2011 3:44 pm ****
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****
Last edited by George Piburn on 22 Nov 2012 9:40 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Doug Burling
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 7 Sep 2011 7:19 pm Re: Gauges and who to buy from
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| George Piburn wrote: |
Hello Doug,
GeorgeBoards String Gauges are for our V groove cut depths, we sell sets as a courtesy to our clients and anyone who might like our limited choice of gauges.
We recommend you make your string purchases from the Forum since this is where you have come to seek information and advise.
It is the Right Thing to do, in my view.  |
I've already determined that the best way to go is single strings since I really can't find complete sets that fit the gauges I'll probably use. My dad said I should use the forum to buy strings also. |
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Steve Ahola
From:
Concord, California
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Posted 7 Sep 2011 9:04 pm
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Speaking strictly for myself I find that there is plenty of leeway as to which gauges you can use on which steels. Like for the 1st string you should be able to use a .011 for a high C6 or high E13th tuning, or a .014 or .015 for low C6 tuning. Correct me if I am wrong but I don't think that most builders of lap steels will cut the slots differently on the nut and- optionally- the bridge if the intended tuning is high C6 or low C6.
I have found that some steels have keys or ranges in which they sound much better (it might have to do with the resonant frequency of the body- I dunno). Many times I have switched from the tuning I intended to use on a particular steel to one that matches the steel better.
Another factor is the length of the scale. I think the typical set is based on a 22 1/2" scale; if the scale is longer than that you might want to use lighter strings.
I do recommend that you stick with one brand and type of string for all of the wound strings (plain strings pretty much sound the same from one vendor to another- the only difference I have noticed is in how well the string is wrapped around the ball end.)
Here are 3 sets from the forum here. The first is stainless steel which sounds brighter and seems to last longer and the second is pure nickel which IMO sounds more mellow and sweet. The second set uses slightly heavier gauges which are closer to what was commonly used in the 40's. You can check with b0b (who runs this site) if you want to change some of the gauges- he can usually set you up with what you want:
http://www.steelguitarshopper.com/products/Jagwire-C6th-Herb-Remington%2C-stainless-wound.html
http://www.steelguitarshopper.com/products/SIT%C2%AE-A6th-or-C6th%2C-pure-nickel-wound.html
There is a 3rd C6 set here that uses a low F and not G for the 8th string so you might want to skip that one:
http://www.steelguitarshopper.com/products/Jagwire-C6th-L.T.-Zinn%2C-nickel-wound.html
As your original post suggested it would be good to check with the builder as to what gauges he thinks work best. And if he not available, you might want to check with anyone who has that particular steel.
Good luck- I'm sure that is a really nice steel you just got.
Steve Ahola
P.S. I suggest that you look into the video tutorials that Mike Neer has been putting out, for C6 as well as other tunings. In some of his more recent tutorials he has been tuning the low G down to F or even lower so you might consider getting the L.T. Zinn set with the .050 for the 8th string.
_________________
www.blueguitar.org
Recordings on electric guitar:
http://www.box.net/blue-diamonds
http://www.box.net/the-culprits |
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Doug Burling
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 8 Sep 2011 5:17 am
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| Steve, thanks for your help and suggestions. The problem I'm having is the seller of the Sierra had set it up for left hand. In doing so, he hacked up the slots in both the nut and bridge to fit the string gauges for left hand. It's a mess. When The Sierra is set up for right hand, which I am, the strings are not close to being level and there's some rattles and bad sounds because of the hacked up slots. Dad had a luthier look at it and he said we should replace the nut and bridge. We've both been trying to contact Sierra for the replacement nut and bridge and I found a dealer who can help us. Dad also talked to Hal Stackhouse yesterday about this and said he was extremely helpful. Dad is sick over this whole thing. He bought the Sierra for me as an early birthday gift. Dad said he had ask the seller very specific questions and had asked if anything else had been altered besides the addition of the Aiello MRI pickup. Anyway, Dad is dead set on getting the Sierra back to the way it should be. I was told it's going to cost $91.00 for the new nut and bridge. Out side of that, the Sierra is in great condition. I may try it with the original pickup once we get the new nut and bridge installed. I love the sound of the Sierra that Doug Beaumier played in his youtube video's. That's why I wanted the Sierra over other lap steels I listened to. |
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Steve Ahola
From:
Concord, California
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Posted 9 Sep 2011 10:26 pm
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| Doug Burling wrote: |
| I was told it's going to cost $91.00 for the new nut and bridge. |
Ouch! That's one problem with the really nice lap steels- it's not like you can just slap on a nut or bridge that you made from angle iron from the hardware store (as I do with my cheap "disposable" lap steels).
I went to the Sierra site. Does your steel look like their Laptop 8?
http://www.sierrasteels.com/pages/laptop.html
If that is the type of bridge you have you could have a machinist cut it down 1/8" and add an 1/8" shim under it to raise it back up. Or it give it a shot in your own garage or shop (much easier if you have a vise and a grinder). If you become a lap steel fanatic you will probably want to fabricate your own nuts and bridges from time to time so it is a good skill to learn.
It looks like the nut is basically a round bar, obviously with some sort of device to secure it to the body; you might be able to have that fabricated locally as well.
Good luck!
Steve Ahola (the habitual DIY-er)
_________________
www.blueguitar.org
Recordings on electric guitar:
http://www.box.net/blue-diamonds
http://www.box.net/the-culprits |
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Doug Burling
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 10 Sep 2011 4:39 am
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| Steve Ahola wrote: |
| Doug Burling wrote: |
| I was told it's going to cost $91.00 for the new nut and bridge. |
Ouch! That's one problem with the really nice lap steels- it's not like you can just slap on a nut or bridge that you made from angle iron from the hardware store (as I do with my cheap "disposable" lap steels).
I went to the Sierra site. Does your steel look like their Laptop 8?
http://www.sierrasteels.com/pages/laptop.html
If that is the type of bridge you have you could have a machinist cut it down 1/8" and add an 1/8" shim under it to raise it back up. Or it give it a shot in your own garage or shop (much easier if you have a vise and a grinder). If you become a lap steel fanatic you will probably want to fabricate your own nuts and bridges from time to time so it is a good skill to learn.
It looks like the nut is basically a round bar, obviously with some sort of device to secure it to the body; you might be able to have that fabricated locally as well.
Good luck!
Steve Ahola (the habitual DIY-er) |
Steve, that's the S-8 I have (cherry model). The nut is not a round bar, it's a polished aluminum plate that's rounded where the slots are. Since we want to keep the Sierra original and don't want to take the chance on it not being right, we didn't want to take a chance on having the nut and bridge rebuilt. At this point all I want is the Sierra to play and sound the way it should. The nut and bridge have been ordered and should be here in another week to ten days. I received the George L 10-1 and looking forward to trying it out. Who knows, I may be putting the MRI pickup back in the guitar after trying the George L. |
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Steve Ahola
From:
Concord, California
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Posted 10 Sep 2011 10:53 pm
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Doug:
With the OEM parts available I agree that you should use them. The price is reasonable when you consider what a machinist would charge to fabricate identical replacement parts.
Let us know what you think of the George L 10-1 pickup. His E-66 seems to be the most popular model, but the Jimmy Day sound of the 10-1 is very tempting!
Steve
_________________
www.blueguitar.org
Recordings on electric guitar:
http://www.box.net/blue-diamonds
http://www.box.net/the-culprits |
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Ian McLatchie
From:
Sechelt, British Columbia
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Posted 11 Sep 2011 3:21 pm
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| I sent you a p.m., Doug. |
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Doug Burling
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 15 Sep 2011 4:37 am
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| I received word yesterday that my new nut and bridge are on the way. As soon as they get here Rob Ellig is going to install them and set up the Sierra with the George L 10-1. I'll be so glad to get the strings leveled and in the proper fitted slots. It's got improve my playing. As far as the pickups go, either the George L or the Aiello/Lollar MRI will soon be for sale. |
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Ian McLatchie
From:
Sechelt, British Columbia
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Posted 23 Sep 2011 1:42 pm
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| Doug: I was having log-in problems and wasn't able to access my p.m. for a few days - a problem which Bobby has now helpfully resolved. I finally got your p.m. and just sent you one in return. |
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