Author |
Topic: Hopefully one of you 10,000+ will offer a solution....... |
S.M. Johnson
From: Oregon, USA
|
Posted 15 Aug 2011 4:27 pm
|
|
A good friend of mine has a JERRY BYRD, double-8, non-pedal, Model Excel steel guitar.
The fret board between the nut and the third fret has buckled upward more than 3/8's of an inch.
There is no visible damage that might have caused it and the rest of the fret board is down flat and SOLID.
QUESTION:
WHAT WOULD YOU DO to correct the problem?
HOW WOULD YOU LIFT UP the rest of the attached fret board?
This is an Excel "Orange" colored MICA. Is that what caused the problem. ........since it's not black? |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Alan Brookes
From: Brummy living in Southern California
|
Posted 15 Aug 2011 4:40 pm
|
|
Would you show us a photo of the problem. What is the fingerboard made of, and is it glued, nailed or screwed to the body ? |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Dana Blodgett
From: California, USA
|
Posted 15 Aug 2011 4:49 pm hopefully one of you 10,000 cwill offer solution...
|
|
I had a similar problem with my '73 Sho-Bud and Jim P. solved the problem with a couple pieces of thin double sided tape...holding now for over a year!
It's a cheap fix, I don't know if I would remove the fingerboard to fix this. Possibly some kind of luthier's glue/adhesive such as titebond.
If you were to remove fingerboard consider a tool such as a bridge spatula(similar to a puddy knife) but rounded off. _________________ Dana Blodgett
From Los Osos,Ca.
'74 ShoBud 6140 3+4, Martins HD28,D-12-28, D-15,'65 Gibson LG-1, '77 Gibson Les Paul special dbl cut p-90's, Les Paul Special p-100's,Les paul Special Hybrid(maple top) hbkr's,'68 Fender Strat reissue, Fender Squire Jazz bass,Epi mandolin,Epi Wilshire '66 reissue, Kamaka Concert uke, 70's Kamaka Soprano Uke, Fender Super amp, Ampeg ba112 bass amp,60's harmony banjo,'00 Gibson SG Supreme |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Todd Brown
From: W. Columbia , South Carolina
|
Posted 15 Aug 2011 5:49 pm guitar string
|
|
Use an .11 gauge, or smaller guitar string to remove the fretboards. Probably would look better with new ones anyway!! |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
David Nugent
From: Gum Spring, Va.
|
Posted 16 Aug 2011 4:09 am
|
|
When you stated that the fretboard,"buckled up", did it remain attached at the nut and raise up between the nut and third fret? If the fretboard is pushed down, does it resume its original position and lie flat, or does it make contact with the nut thus preventing this? |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
basilh
From: United Kingdom
|
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Barry Blackwood
|
Posted 16 Aug 2011 6:05 am
|
|
I concur, Basil. S.M., we will need a picture before solving the problem. ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
S.M. Johnson
From: Oregon, USA
|
Posted 16 Aug 2011 8:44 am Many thanks to each of you!
|
|
I appreciate each of your suggestions.
I'll attempt to get a photo for you within the next day or two. Thanks so much. |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Sonny Jenkins
From: Texas Masonic Retirement Center,,,Arlington Tx
|
Posted 16 Aug 2011 9:02 am
|
|
If the problem is what I see in my mind when I read this,,,go to a carpet/floor covering store, get a small piece of double sided carpet tape (it will be sticky on one side, peel off paper on the other) insert it as best you can, make sure it is flat and not wrinkled up, clamp it down tight for a day or two. If you can remove the whole fret board (use the .011 string mentioned earlier) you could get a much cleaner procedure.
***The thickness of this tape is insignificant,,,much like scotch tape only much stickier and more permanent.
Not as messy as glue. Carpenters glue is OK for raw wood,,,not plastic or finished surface.
Last edited by Sonny Jenkins on 16 Aug 2011 1:41 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Erv Niehaus
From: Litchfield, MN, USA
|
Posted 16 Aug 2011 10:22 am
|
|
Or you could just squirt some carpenters glue in under the bulged up part, clamp it down and wait for it to dry. ![Very Happy](images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif) |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Glenn Uhler
From: Trenton, New Jersey, USA
|
Posted 16 Aug 2011 2:38 pm Hair dryer
|
|
Before you try anything else, try heating the lifted end with a hair dryer. That could relax the glue just enough to let the bump flatten out. Hold the raised area down while it cools. _________________ 1974 Marlen S-12 1968 Tele 1969 Martin D-35H |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Kevin Hatton
From: Buffalo, N.Y.
|
Posted 16 Aug 2011 7:39 pm
|
|
Blow torch. No, but seriously folks, Glenn's suggestion above is a good one. |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
basilh
From: United Kingdom
|
Posted 17 Aug 2011 12:16 am
|
|
I'm quite surprised no one has given a link to THIS very helpful video ! |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
S.M. Johnson
From: Oregon, USA
|
Posted 17 Aug 2011 8:35 am Leave it to Basil............................
|
|
Basil how do you manage to come up with all of this insider knowledge and resources?
THanks to all...........and to you Basil.
Do you suppose that would work, as demonstrated, on a non-pedal steel? (Joking!) |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
basilh
From: United Kingdom
|
Posted 17 Aug 2011 8:48 am
|
|
I think the best way of making the required tool would be to convert a "Tile Saw".... change the blade for a 0.011" string or maybe a .0115 short twist..
Most of us can find or need a hair dryer, so that's half of the required implements, add this and hey presto
Personally I'd go for a black handle..You know what they say.. BTW that device is a genuine Push-Pull.. |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Alan Brookes
From: Brummy living in Southern California
|
Posted 17 Aug 2011 9:03 am
|
|
basilh wrote: |
I'm quite surprised no one has given a link to THIS very helpful video !
I think the best way of making the required tool would be to convert a "Tile Saw".... change the blade for a 0.011" string or maybe a .0115 short twist..
Most of us can find or need a hair dryer, so that's half of the required implements, add this and hey presto
.. |
I was contemplating a similar method, such as how they remove the neck from a guitar. They inject steam into the wood joint with a special tool which has what looks like a hyperdemic on the end, after first drilling a small pilot hole in a fret slot. Then when the fret is put back the hole is not visible.
The idea that Basil pointed to in the video works well, THIS as long as you're working with a metal fingerboard, but don't try it on a plastic one, or the heat will warp it. |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Alan Brookes
From: Brummy living in Southern California
|
Posted 17 Aug 2011 9:12 am Re: Leave it to Basil............................
|
|
S.M. Johnson wrote: |
Basil, how do you manage to come up with all of this insider knowledge and resources? |
'cause he's smart. He's a professional musician and has been working with steel guitars for his whole life.
He's a great resource for anything. You should read the magazine that he produces, Aloha Dream, a magnificent publication with colour cover, and full of the most intricate information about Hawaiian music. ![Cool](images/smiles/icon_cool.gif) |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |