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Topic: How do you choose a tone bar? |
Conor Mitchell
From:
Washington, USA
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Posted 29 Jun 2011 6:14 pm |
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So I know there are TONS of different types of tone bars, but where does one start? I have a 6-string lap steel on the way and need something to play with!
I imagine I'll be stringing it w/ flatwounds if that makes a difference, and I'm looking for really clean, pristine tones as opposed to more Dobro/bluesy playing.
Can you point me to a place to start?
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www.mountsalvation.com |
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S.M. Johnson
From:
Oregon, USA
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Posted 29 Jun 2011 8:15 pm Just a tho't
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WHY NOT check what JERRY BYRD has to say about strings and bars and things. He was pretty good at what he did with a single six string lap steel.
jerrybyrd-fanclub.com/ |
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David Matzenik
From:
Cairns, on the Coral Sea
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Posted 29 Jun 2011 8:25 pm
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For a pristine tone from average size hands you can't go wrong with the Broz-O-phonic. The price is right and in the meantime you can save up for those specialty bars.
http://www.elderly.com/accessories/items/BOPGS.htm
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Don't go in the water after lunch. You'll get a cramp and drown. - Mother. |
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Former Member
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Brian Hunter
From:
Indianapolis
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Posted 30 Jun 2011 3:30 am Re: Just a tho't
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| S.M. Johnson wrote: |
WHY NOT check what JERRY BYRD has to say about strings and bars and things. He was pretty good at what he did with a single six string lap steel.
jerrybyrd-fanclub.com/ |
Maybe I don't know where to look but I couldn't find any of that information over there.
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Brian |
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Don McGregor
From:
Memphis, Tennessee
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Posted 30 Jun 2011 4:01 am
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With many opinions on this subject, I will just say that, after experimenting with many different brands and styles, BJS bars have so far given me the cleanest, clearest tones, while at the same time, greatly reducing the scratchy noise between the notes.
The Tribotone is quiet, and is good for certain things, but to my ear, seems to mute the highs a bit. I also just like the weight of my BJS better. Until I got my first BJS, I liked my John Pearse best. The BJS just seems to have a little harder, smoother finish.
3/4" by 2-3/4" or 2-7/8" is considered by many to be the optimum size for a round nose bar on a 6, 7, or 8 string steel to make the most of slant positions. A longer bar might feel more comfortable in a larger hand.
Any bar close to this size and shape will do fine, at least to start with. I keep a Dunlop in my case as a backup. Here's a link to a youtube comparison between several bars, though BJS isn't among them.http://tinyurl.com/3phm6j5 |
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J Fletcher
From:
London,Ont,Canada
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Posted 30 Jun 2011 8:20 am
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Hi Conor
I tried a Jim Dunlop 918, which is the Jerry Byrd model, and liked it. Inexpensive, and gets the job done for me. Fits my hand nicely...Jerry |
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Mike Neer
From:
NJ
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Posted 30 Jun 2011 9:03 am
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Eenie meenie miney mo!
You can start off with something like a Dunlop, but ultimately you will find that there are others bars out there that are much better. Once you know the dimensions of the bar you like and the wieght, there are several people who make great custom bars.
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Links to streaming music, websites, YouTube: Links |
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Twayn Williams
From:
Portland, OR
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Posted 30 Jun 2011 9:34 am
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| J Fletcher wrote: |
| I tried a Jim Dunlop 918, which is the Jerry Byrd model, and liked it. Inexpensive, and gets the job done for me. Fits my hand nicely...Jerry |
+1
Although I like the Paloma ceramic bars and the Diamond Neck Crystal bars alot as well.
BUT...
Don't discount the Shubb SP-2 contoured bar! It's an especially good bar for beginners in that you don't have to think about your grip as much. I always keep one in every steel guitar case I own as a backup in case I break one of my more fragile bars on the gig.
Most bars are cheap enough to try out, only the cost of a few sets of strings, so I have about maybe 14 bars to choose from, though I tend to actually favor only couple of them, the Dunlop, Broz-o-phonic, Paloma ceramic and Diamond Neck.
YMMV!!!!
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Primitive Utility Steel |
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Stephen Abruzzo
From:
Philly, PA
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Posted 30 Jun 2011 10:20 am
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First, get some inexpensive bars (Dunlop, Brozophonic) to figure out what diameter and length is best for you.
If you find that your tone is "lacking", then go the custom route to nail your sound.
In no particular order or reason...I'm usually reaching for either a BJS (steel), Paloma (stoneware) or Tribotone (polymer). |
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Bob Russell
From:
Virginia, USA
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Posted 30 Jun 2011 10:26 am
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| J Fletcher wrote: |
Hi Conor
I tried a Jim Dunlop 918, which is the Jerry Byrd model, and liked it. Inexpensive, and gets the job done for me. Fits my hand nicely...Jerry |
I've been through a few different bars and I keep coming back to my trusty old 918. I'm just getting to the point where I think an "upgrade" bar might make a difference, so I'm glad I already got the basic issues of size and shape sorted out with less expensive bars. |
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Conor Mitchell
From:
Washington, USA
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Posted 8 Jul 2011 4:38 pm
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Thanks sincerely for the suggestions, all! I went w/ a Broz-o-phonic for now and we'll see where that takes me...
_________________
www.mountsalvation.com |
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Steve Ahola
From:
Concord, California
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Posted 8 Jul 2011 10:49 pm
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| Bob Russell wrote: |
| J Fletcher wrote: |
Hi Conor
I tried a Jim Dunlop 918, which is the Jerry Byrd model, and liked it. Inexpensive, and gets the job done for me. Fits my hand nicely...Jerry |
I've been through a few different bars and I keep coming back to my trusty old 918. I'm just getting to the point where I think an "upgrade" bar might make a difference, so I'm glad I already got the basic issues of size and shape sorted out with less expensive bars. |
If the 3/4" diameter 918 JD works for you (it works for me!) I highly recommend getting a 13/16" bullet bar from Jim Burden. One thing I like about it is that it is very easy to hold and manipulate (just like the 918 bar) but the weight is closer to that of the 7/8" 920 bar which helps the sound ring out strongly. (If weight is an issue I believe that Jim can hollow out the bar for you.)
The other thing I like about it is that the bullet end taper he uses is not as blunt as the JD bars, which allows you to go seamlessly from a single string to two strings to full bar.
The last I checked he charges $30 including shipping (at least within the US) and will make the bar whatever length you want. I wanted something a little bit longer than the 918 so I tried shimming up the 918 with small bottle caps until I figured out the exact length I needed.
http://www.bulletbars.com/
Steve Ahola
_________________
www.blueguitar.org
Recordings on electric guitar:
http://www.box.net/blue-diamonds
http://www.box.net/the-culprits |
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Bob Russell
From:
Virginia, USA
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Posted 9 Jul 2011 5:35 am
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| Steve Ahola wrote: |
| Bob Russell wrote: |
| J Fletcher wrote: |
Hi Conor
I tried a Jim Dunlop 918, which is the Jerry Byrd model, and liked it. Inexpensive, and gets the job done for me. Fits my hand nicely...Jerry |
I've been through a few different bars and I keep coming back to my trusty old 918. I'm just getting to the point where I think an "upgrade" bar might make a difference, so I'm glad I already got the basic issues of size and shape sorted out with less expensive bars. |
If the 3/4" diameter 918 JD works for you (it works for me!) I highly recommend getting a 13/16" bullet bar from Jim Burden. One thing I like about it is that it is very easy to hold and manipulate (just like the 918 bar) but the weight is closer to that of the 7/8" 920 bar which helps the sound ring out strongly. (If weight is an issue I believe that Jim can hollow out the bar for you.)
The other thing I like about it is that the bullet end taper he uses is not as blunt as the JD bars, which allows you to go seamlessly from a single string to two strings to full bar.
The last I checked he charges $30 including shipping (at least within the US) and will make the bar whatever length you want. I wanted something a little bit longer than the 918 so I tried shimming up the 918 with small bottle caps until I figured out the exact length I needed.
http://www.bulletbars.com/
Steve Ahola |
I ordered a 13/16" from Jim a few days ago, based on the rave reviews I've read from many of my FoBros. I love the size of the 918 bar but have found myself wishing for just a little more heft and a little less length. The Bullet Bar should get here in a couple of days; I'm looking forward to trying it out. (The price of the Bullet Bars is now $40 including shipping, which is extremely reasonable for a custom-built bar.) |
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Bob Russell
From:
Virginia, USA
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Posted 11 Jul 2011 7:24 pm a follow-up
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My Bullet Bar (www.bulletbars.com) came in the mail today from Jim Burden, and it's beautifully made. I asked Jim for a 13/16" by 2 3/4" size, a little fatter than a Dunlop 918 and not quite as long, since I have short fingers. I'm lovin' it so far, especially the rounding on the nose. Makes split- string slants a lot easier to get in tune. Also, the 45 degree indent on the back of Jim's bar works much better for me than the Dunlop's 90 degree setup.
Jim was great to communicate with and downright speedy at getting my bar to me. Thanks, Jim! |
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Whip Lashaway
From:
Monterey, Tenn, USA
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Posted 11 Jul 2011 7:31 pm
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Go somewhere that has several and do side by side sound comparisions. Then buy the BJS!
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Whip Lashaway
Sierra E9/B6 12 string
Sierra E9/B6 14 string
Excel S12 8x9 blue
Excel S12 8x9 black |
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