push/pull problem that is driving me nuts

Luke Schneider · From: Nashville

my E-D# (string 4) lower (LKR) won't lower far enough. The D# is too sharp and the finger is stopping before it even hits the lower adjustment/tuning screw. in other words, turning the set screw you typically tune your lowers with makes no difference. The bottom E lowers all the way to D# and hits that tuning screw just fine.

is there a simple fix for this? i've tried a few things that looked obvious but i can't figure this out.

thanks in advance

Jim Eaton · From: Santa Susana, Ca

Check for a broken spring between the rod collar and the bellcrank swivel. My 79 S-10 PP had that happen a few months back on the 8th Stg lower.
JE:-)>
_________________
Emmons D10PP 8/4 -75'
Emmons S-10PP 3/4 - 79'
Emmons S-12PP 3/4 -78'
MSA Legend SD12 5/5 -06'
Mullen S-12 4/5 - 1986
Nashville 112 x2 W/Knob Guards - Don't leave home with out one!
Walker SS rack system - 12"BW's
Quilter Steelaire Combo

Bill Moore · From: Manchester, Michigan

You probably need more tension on the spring that pulls and holds the finger in the forward position. These are the springs located close to the body, near the changer. Loosen the collar and pull out on the spring, re-tighten the collar.

Cal Sharp · From: the farm in Kornfield Kounty, TN

Or the E to F# pull isn't leaving enough slack for the E to Eb to go far enough to tune.
_________________
C#
Me: Steel Guitar Madness
Latest ebook: Steel Guitar Insanity
Custom Made Covers for Steel Guitars & Amps at Sharp Covers Nashville

Erv Niehaus · From: Litchfield, MN, USA

I think Cal hit it on the head.
On a push/pull changer, the raises have priority over the lowers. If you don't have enough slack in the raises, you can't get the lowers to work.

Mike Cass · Posted 26 May 2011 1:41 pm

check for a loose bellcrank first, its the #1 cause of loss of the E lower. If its not loose, then hand tune the changer by reaching under and gently pulling the raise finger towards the endplate until it hits the screw, and then turn the screw until you get the lower. If it wont go to Eb that way then Cal is correct. If you can get to Eb then you may have other issues. Feel free to call me @ 615-446-5952. Im in Dickson and would be happy to take a look at it for you.
Mike Cass

Factory Authorized Emmons Dealer/Repair Station since 1987.

Ray DeVoe · From: Hudson, FL

Hi Luke

This is a common problem which can usually be corrected fairly easily.

I currently own two P'P's and have experienced the same problem.

Its usually all a matter of adjustment and travel. Most PP owners will tell you to loosen up your lock collars ( the ones that are pushed or pulled by the bell crank ). Do this on both the 4th string pull rod as well as the push rod. This should allow the changer or finger to move to its normal position.

This is normally refered to as starting over when everything else has failed.

Once this is done, one way to start the set up is to start with the 3rd pedal. ( the pedal that pulls the E to F# ) Start by moving the collar on the pull rod back in towards the bell crank and tighten the set screw but only allow the collar to move in far enough so that the pedal has to travel all of the way to the pedal stop before the finger is pulled all of the way open. Your F # and pedal adjustment should then be set.

Once this is set, then go to your knee lever that lowers the E to D#. Slide the collar all of the way up to the bell crank and tighten the set screw. Move your lowering knee lever and see if the finger will move all of the way to the D# stop ( tuning set screw )

If it will not lower all of the way there is usually two things that can cause this. Both are pedal / knee lever travel adjustments. The 3rd pedal may need to be adjusted so that it pushes further which then results in more bell crank / rod travel.

The 4th string pedal and knee lever travel and rod adjustments must be set accurately as there is not much room for a mistake.

Once these settings are working correctly, then adjust your knee lever that raises the E to F by moving that collar in toward the finger screw adjustment. Once you set this to pull to F, then the guitar should be set up.

But if your E will not lower to D# again, then one of the other two adjustments is keeping it from traveling all of the way.

Someone else may be able to explain this a little better but this is what needs to be done when the adjustment and travel gets messed up.

PP's are wonderful instruments once you learn your way around them.

I hope this helps you get back on track.
------------------------------------------
If all of this fails, call Mike Cass. He is the Emmons setup guy. I see he responded to your post while I was writing all of this stuff out.

Mike: Please feel free to correct me if anything I stated is not the best way to do this.

Ray DeVoe
_________________
Zum SD 10 Hybrid, Zum D 10 Hybrid, Emmons SD 10 P.P.
SMS: Revelation & Classic Preamps: Furlong 12" Splits.
Webb 15" Splits: Telonics 500 C: Head and 12" cabinet:

chris ivey · From: california (deceased)

my first thought was that tha bellcrank slipped a little
the little set screw really has to be firm and tight against the flat spot on the round crossrod.

John McGuire · From: Swansea,Illinois, USA

Listen to Mike Cass. If that don't work take it to Mike Cass!

Forum Index > Pedal Steel		Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic

All times are GMT - 8 Hours	Jump to: