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Author Topic:  Mildest grit scotch brite
Len Amaral

 

From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
Post  Posted 26 Dec 2010 3:01 pm    
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Anyone know the mildest grit of scotch brite or abrasive pad? When I change strings I was using a 0000 steel wool to rub over the fingers on the guitar but the fibers get loose and make a mess.

Thanks,

Lenny
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Barry Blackwood


Post  Posted 26 Dec 2010 3:57 pm    
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Possibly, the ones that are advertised as "won't scratch Teflon," however, why would you do this to begin with? Confused
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Paul E Vendemmia

 

From:
Olney Maryland Mongomery
Post  Posted 26 Dec 2010 4:13 pm    
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Why do you do this you could make a flat spot and make the string buzz or make a braking point.
I never herd of this!!!
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Dave Mudgett


From:
Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee
Post  Posted 26 Dec 2010 6:05 pm    
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There have been a few threads on this over the years - it is recommended by knowledgeable people to use fine sandpaper or emery paper periodically to dress the top of the finger surface, being very careful not to sand a flat spot - e.g.,

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=118670

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=141619

I don't see the really fine sandpaper grits at the usual Joe Q. Public do-it-yourself places like Lowe's or Home Depot. I usually have to go to a specialty shop to get the finer grits, and use Nevr Dull wadding polish to get a fine polish at the end.

I personally think it's a good idea to do this fairly frequently - again, very lightly and taking great pain to not make a flat spot - to avoid getting deep gouges in the top of the fingers. I think this problem gets exponentially harder to fix when as the gouges get incrementally deeper.
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Robert Parent

 

From:
Gillette, WY
Post  Posted 26 Dec 2010 8:10 pm    
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Len,

Does this help?

Colour Code
Dark grey Blending/finishing of stainless steel, weld blending

Brown Blending, deburring, weld cleaning, oxide

Dark green Heavy duty cleaning, oxide removal

Light green Cleaning, equipment maintenance, blending, intermediate finishing

Maroon Fine finishing, cleaning, paint keying, light deburring, blending

Light grey Very fine finishing, light cleaning, die polishing, denibbing

White Light cleaning, will carry compounds very effectively
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Clete Ritta


From:
San Antonio, Texas
Post  Posted 26 Dec 2010 11:09 pm    
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I think 600 is the highest grain ScotchBrite.

Im refinishing an old guitar, and got sandpapers dry/wet up to 800 grit at HomeDepot.
Wouldnt use sand on the changer though.

There are also microfiber finishing cloths from StewMac that are a bit expensive, but range in grades for polishing chrome etc. Work great on guitar frets when filing, or before changing strings too.

Clete
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Len Amaral

 

From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2010 7:30 am    
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Thanks for the replies and info. The 0000 steel wool will not harm the changer finger but like I said, the fibers come apart and it makes a mess. I saw Joe Wright
in Florida several years back break a string and use some sort of abrasive pad to rub over the finger to clean it before he put the new string on.

Maybe I'll contact Joe to see what he uses.

Thanks,

Lenny
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Andy Sandoval


From:
Bakersfield, California, USA
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2010 8:43 am    
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I use my wife's emery boards. Get one with fine on one side and even finer on the other side. You can cut them down to the width of the finger and they're flexible enough to follow the contour of the finger. polish just enough to remove burs and grooves caused by the strings. try a magnifying glass, you'll be surprised to see tiny grooves that might not show up otherwise.
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Chris Lucker

 

From:
Los Angeles, California USA
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2010 1:27 pm    
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Len

Are your changer fingers in contact with the bottom of the case? If so, suspend the changer off the case. The weight of the guitar grinding strings into the fingers probably accounts for more worn fingers than anything else.
_________________
Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars.
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David Mason


From:
Cambridge, MD, USA
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2010 2:03 pm    
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Mr. Lucker speaks truth. If there are deep string grooves in the lining of the top of your case, well.... I made a few little felt-topped posts that sit on either side of the changer.
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Bobby D. Jones

 

From:
West Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2010 8:55 pm     Mildest grade of Scotch Bright
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When you talk about pad to clean fingers with. There are specalized cleaning pads used in factories that can not be bought commercially. The one you seen may have came from a friend or relative who got it some place. I have seen pads of some sort used by Pawn shops and jewelry to clean precious metals. My favorite thing to use and will polish metal till you can see your face in the shine is a set of great stones. They come from Wood Crafters,Parkersburg WV.(they are listed on the internet)
They are in a set of 4 with all shapes for precission sharpening and burr removeal. they are listed at 8000 Grit Yes Eight Thousand Grit. They are straight and hard so they are easy to control. I never found a scotch bright that did not make fine marks on stainless steel guns. I was a police armor for 15 years.
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Clete Ritta


From:
San Antonio, Texas
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2010 10:37 pm    
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8000 grit! Very Happy
Id take that to the bank for making chrome shine like a mirror.

The Stew Mac cloths are ranged up to 12000 grit.
18 Micro-Mesh abrasive sheets (two 3" x 6" pieces of each grit):
1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000-grit



A buffing wheel on a drill works too for removing tarnish and fingerprints on the ends for a brand new look.

BTW these will work well on the changer too

Clete
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 28 Dec 2010 7:52 am    
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If you go to an auto parts store, they should have "emery cloth". That is what I use.
It comes on a roll and is about 1/2" wide.
Just tear off a piece and it is very handy for going over the tops of changer fingers.
Kind of like buffing off your shoes.
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Ron Funk

 

From:
Ballwin, Missouri
Post  Posted 28 Dec 2010 9:25 am     For Paul Vendemmia
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Paul -

please look for an email I sent to you thru Forum.
(different topic)

Thanks -
Ron
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Buddy Castleberry

 

From:
HAWKINSVILLE GA USA - R.I.P.
Post  Posted 28 Dec 2010 10:26 am    
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GO TO A BEAUTY SUPPLY THEY HAVE EMERY BOARDS
OF DIFFERENT GRITS I USE THE ONE THAT POLISHES
THE FINGER NAILS ,IT HAS 4 DIFFERENT GRITS ON THE
SAME POLISH BOARD THEY ARE FLEXABLE AND EASY TO USE
AND ABOUT THE WIDTH OF THE CHANGER FINGER
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post  Posted 28 Dec 2010 12:17 pm    
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I resurface my changer fingers the way Mike Cass taught me.

1] Remove changer and clean w/ solvent

2] clamp the fingers together on the axle and use 3/4" wide crocus clocus cloth. I use it like a shoeshine rag to avoid flattening the radius.

3] Buff the changer (still clamped) with Tripoli Brown compound and finish with White.

BEFORE

DURING

AFTER
[/i]
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Tom Campbell

 

From:
Houston, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 28 Dec 2010 4:39 pm    
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Auto parts stores sell 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit for auto body refinishing. The 1000 grit and above will do a nice job and give a bright shine. You can buy a variety pack that include a couple sheets of each grit.
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Dickie Whitley

 

Post  Posted 28 Dec 2010 4:45 pm    
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Tony, just curious, how often do you go through that procedure? They look great after you're done!
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post  Posted 28 Dec 2010 5:01 pm    
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Dickie Whitley wrote:
Tony, just curious, how often do you go through that procedure? They look great after you're done!


It took me a while. Since my guitar is a P/P I had to remove the necks to pop-out the changers. Also it was a full restoration project so I totally dismantled it, had the body re-miced, cleaned and polished everything, designed and fitted a half-stop and replaced all the axles etc. I did the project in spurts over many months. I think if pulling and polishing the changers was all you did, it would take a couple of afternoons.

BTW: On an all pull, you would need to de-rod it to remove the changer. On a P/P you could leave the rods in, if you unhooked them from the changer, but you'd need to pull the necks if it's a "cut-tail". I'm not sure if that's true for "bolt-ons or wrap-arounds"
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