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Topic: Changing strings... |
Jack Willis
From:
California, USA
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Posted 24 Oct 2010 8:14 pm |
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I am planning to change the strings on my SD-10 this week. This will be the first time for me on a PSG. I know it is a routine thing to do for most of you. I am seeking a little input or advice on any tricks of the trade or pitfalls I may encounter. Thanks
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Mullen SD10 pre RP, Milkman 40w mini steel, Wet reverb mono, Profex II, Yamaha keyboard, lots of books about music theory and PSG. |
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Arne Odegard
From:
Norway
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Jack Willis
From:
California, USA
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Posted 25 Oct 2010 4:34 am Tutorial
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Thanks Arne. I will check this out more thoroughly after work today. It looks like everything I will need to know.
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Mullen SD10 pre RP, Milkman 40w mini steel, Wet reverb mono, Profex II, Yamaha keyboard, lots of books about music theory and PSG. |
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Michael Robertson
From:
Ventura, California. USA
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Posted 25 Oct 2010 7:19 am Lubricate
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| Jack, changing strings is a great time to lubricate everything as well. |
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Alan Sparkman
From:
Mansfield Texas, USA
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Posted 25 Oct 2010 7:34 am
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| Jack, if you go to Bobbe Seymour's website steelguitar.net there is a link on the left side of the home page for "video clips". Follow that link for a great video tutorial on string changing. |
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Stu Schulman
From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
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Posted 25 Oct 2010 8:37 am
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Jack,if you have an electric screwdriver or drill they make a bit that goes on the tuning pegs and makes it much faster.
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Steeltronics Z-pickup,Desert Rose S-10 4+5,Desert Rose Keyless S-10 3+5... Mullen G2 S-10 3+5,Telonics 206 pickups,Telonics volume pedal.,Blanton SD -10,Emmons GS_10...Zirctone bar,Bill Groner Bar...any amp that isn't broken.Steel Seat.Com seats...Licking paint chips off of Chinese Toys since 1952. |
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Ronnie Boettcher
From:
Brunswick Ohio, USA
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Posted 25 Oct 2010 9:01 am
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If you can find one, get the plastic crank-type, string winder. It is cheap, and works well. Only advice I can give, is after you hook the string on the finger, pin, or slot, hold it there, and cut the string 3" longer than the peg it is going to be wound on. Then wind the string on it with just having the string protude through the hole about a 1/8". Make sure you wind all the strings so that they wind fron the top. Bring the string up to a note lower than it's supposed to be, and do all strings that way. Then tune to pitch.
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Sho-Bud LDG, Martin D28, Ome trilogy 5 string banjo, Ibanez 4-string bass, dobro, fiddle, and a tubal cain. Life Member of AFM local 142 |
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Willis Vanderberg
From:
Petoskey Mi
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Posted 28 Oct 2010 5:35 am
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| Wind the string as close to inline with the keyhead roller as you can.Some strings will be wound inward of the hole and some outward to achieve this. Cutting three inches is too much on the wound strings. It is easier to wind number ten before eight and nine too. |
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Don Brown, Sr.
From:
New Jersey
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Posted 28 Oct 2010 9:58 am
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Jack, if you're new to pedal steel, then you might also want to make sure you replace them with the same gauge (size) as the one's you're removing. If not, and being new to steel, you'd more likely than not, run into problems, that you may otherwise avoid.
It's also a good practice to make sure that the cut off ends, of the strings (at the Ball End wraps, are facing out (and away) from the Fingers. That avoids scratching the fingers.
As has already been said. A great time to make sure the nut rollers are rolling smooth & free, as well as a drop of light oil on the shaft and a drop between the fingers too...........
Note:
It's not good wrapping strings over themselves, but it is good to make the first (half) of the wrap (on the opposite side of the string you cut off that you'll be winding) and then cross over to the opposite side you'll be winding the rest of the turns on.
That effectively, sandwiches the string (while not crossing over itself) in place, with Zero slippage..........
And have fun, it's all a big part of it.  |
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C Dixon
From:
Duluth, GA USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2010 8:20 pm
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All posters have given great advice, including the link in the 2nd post.
I agree with EVERY thing written, with one exception.
You do NOT need to overlap the string, IF you end up with enough windings on the peg. A locomotive could NOT cause that string to slip if you have 4 or 5 wraps on the smaller gauge strings; particularly string 3.
So I recommend a sligthly longer piece of tail than he suggests, so that when you are done, you have at least 4-5 complete wraps on said strings.
Finally, I would suggest you make the following procedure change in the instruction video:
1. Instead of bending that hook in the end of the string as he showed. Bend it with the end of needle nose pliers. Make sure it is not a V bend; rather a U bend by how you hold the string in the pliers.
And as he said, do not leave the short piece long enough to scratch the top of the guitar when winding the string. 1/4" to 3/8" sticking out is fine.
2. This will give you a built in aid. IE: simply turn the key until the hole is horizontal to the top of the guitar.
3. Now hook the string in the hole from the left end of the guitar direction.
4. With your left hand, hold the string up in the air and begin winding the string with either your right hand fingers, a string winder or the more prefered electric screw driver equipped with an attachment that fits over your keys.
5. Keep the wire taught as it gets closer and closer to horizontal ending up in the groove of the nut roller.
6. Watch the changer and make sure the string is centered as it begins to tighten.
7. Wind in the direction that will cause the string to be pulled OVER the keypeg rather than under it. This is important to reduce hysterisis* problems.
Finally, as one poster said, wind the strings on some pegs so the wrap goes from the center of the hole towards the end of the peg. While you wind other strings so the wraps goes from the center to the base of the peg.
What determines this is how you want to end up as he said in the video. The ideal condition is where
ALL strings are parallel to the front or back edge of the guitar. This is important, to prevent as much hysterisis as possible.
Hope this helps and may Jesus bless you in your quests.
c.
* Hysterisis is a phenomenon that occurs on Keyed guitar (and poorly designed keyless guitars), where by strings that are raised AND lowered, come back slightly sharp when it is lowered and released.
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A broken heart + † = a new heart. |
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Charles Davidson
From:
Phenix City Alabama, USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2010 9:28 pm
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Can't add much except what Don Brown said, USE THE SAME GAUGE STRINGS.YOU BETCHA,DYK?BC.
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Hard headed, opinionated old geezer. BAMA CHARLIE. GOD BLESS AMERICA. ANIMAL RIGHTS ACTIVIST. SUPPORT LIVE MUSIC ! |
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George Kimery
From:
Limestone, TN, USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2010 3:38 am Changing Strings
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| If your guitar has a pin that you insert the hole in the ball end of the string into, then you should seriously consider my Third Hand String changing gadget. It will push the string completely up onto the pin and hold it in place, leaving both hands free to work the tuning peg end. They are $3.00 plus $2.00 shipping. You can see a photo under "For sale amps and accessories." |
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Jack Willis
From:
California, USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2010 4:38 am Great advice
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Thanks to everyone for the info and advice. Tomorrow is the big day. The old strings gotta go and the new ones want to sing!
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Mullen SD10 pre RP, Milkman 40w mini steel, Wet reverb mono, Profex II, Yamaha keyboard, lots of books about music theory and PSG. |
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Alfred Ewell
From:
Virginia, USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2010 4:58 am
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If your steel, like mine, doesn't have rollers at the nut end, then a tip from the fiddle world is to use a pencil to lube the grooves the strings will slide through with graphite. (It's not really lead.) A little dab'l do ya, but anything to avoid (postpone) a break is good.  |
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