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Author Topic:  Changers
Ron Ross

 

From:
Midwest City,Oklahoma
Post  Posted 1 Aug 2010 6:07 pm    
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as a newbie is was wondering what are changer pieces made out of..ive seen some fingers that are stainless steel and some are aluminum..Which is better?.What anout plated steel? I was also wonder what ecatly is the big difference between 24" and 24 1/4 scale?any help will be appreciated.thanks Ron
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 1 Aug 2010 6:21 pm    
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Ron, I think most of the fingers are made out of aluminum.A few are made out of stainless steel.
I make my fingers out of 6061 aluminum and the scissors - raise and lower bars - I make them out of 16 gauge galvanized steel.
I don't see where there is much of a difference between 24 and 24 1/4" scale
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Ron Ross

 

From:
Midwest City,Oklahoma
Post  Posted 1 Aug 2010 6:27 pm    
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thanks for your response..i was told by a friend of mine that the aluminum fingers wont stay in tune...just not sure
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 7:40 am    
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Then there sure must be a lot of out-of-tune guitars out there. Whoa!
I think you need to get a friend who knows what he's talking about. Very Happy


Last edited by Erv Niehaus on 2 Aug 2010 8:44 am; edited 1 time in total
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richard burton


From:
Britain
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 8:36 am    
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There are Shocked
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 8:43 am    
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Richard,
That's what those little thingies on the left end are for. Whoa!
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richard burton


From:
Britain
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 8:44 am    
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if you know how to use them
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 9:32 am    
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Ron, just to clarify before this one takes off into outer space...
The fact that the fingers are aluminum does not make a steel go out of tune. Your friend is mistaken here.
The worst part of an aluminum finger, is the theory that the wound string can mark the aluminum and create some buzz and nastiness like that. If this occurs, the picker knows enough to sand/polish/buff out the marks and the finger is good for many more miles. Aluminum fingers have been known to last for 35 years and more. Some builders, however, make it out of stainless steel..a much more difficult process with specialized equipment etc. From what I have read, the sound might become a bit brighter with SS.
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Jim Smith


From:
Midlothian, TX, USA
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 9:36 am    
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Dekley used chrome plated steel fingers. My 30 year old D-12 was played six nights a week for many years and the fingers still look like new. Smile
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Andy Sandoval


From:
Bakersfield, California, USA
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 10:49 am    
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"Chrome plated steel" and "stainless steel" fingers vs "aluminum". Is there that much difference in sound that your amp can't compensate for? Not havin to polish out grooves and burrs might be worth the trade off.
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 10:58 am    
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You could be right, Andy. Myself I, believe it's true what you say. Thing is, it is more expensive to fab the stainless fingers. I hear they are cut with laser.
So of course the extra cost gets relayed to the customer.
I do believe in chrome plating though. I have this idea that chrome plated brass or bronze would make good tone. Just listen to a ship - or church bell; crystal clear and sustains forever.
But good old aluminum must be great though..most builders use that.
I know it would cost me about $75.00 more for chrome plated brass
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Pat Comeau


From:
New Brunswick, Canada
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 3:37 pm    
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Hi Bent...do you know of any PSG having lower and raise fingers scissors made out of aluminum? Confused

Pat C Smile
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 4:28 pm    
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Hi Pat, I don't know of any steel that actually has it. But Martin Weenick (respected builder) told me once that sure, you can make the raise/lower scissors out of aluminum.
You'd have to hog it out of 1/4" or 5/16" tick aluminum though.

Martin, please tune in here if I heard you wrong or plain misunderstood. It sure wouldn't be the first time Smile
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Martin Weenick


From:
Lecanto, FL, USA
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 4:37 pm    
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Bent , Pat, yes I have made the bottom end of the fingers out of aluminum. They were the old original ShoBud fulcrum type and not the scissors type that you see now. They worked great but would wear quickly if you didn't have the pull rods lined up perfectly straight. Martin.
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Ron Ross

 

From:
Midwest City,Oklahoma
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 5:19 pm    
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so if a changer had aluminum fingers and plated steel scissors it would be ok? and thanks to everyone who responded...you giys are a wealth of information for a total beginner
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 6:08 pm    
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Yes, Ron, that would be ok. Plated or galvanized.
Are you building a steel?
Lots of info here for a builder. Same goes for the steel guitar builders forum on my signature line below.
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Ron Ross

 

From:
Midwest City,Oklahoma
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2010 6:50 pm    
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no...i just believe in doin my research..getting REAL close to buying a new steel guitar...and just dont want to make a poor decision
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Jim Palenscar

 

From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
Post  Posted 3 Aug 2010 7:23 am    
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The Infinity guitar made by Frank Carter (no relation to Carter Guitars) as aluminum fingers and scissors and a newly designed ramp for the lowering half of the scissor that makes for a wonderful changer!
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Jim Pitman

 

From:
Waterbury Ctr. VT 05677 USA
Post  Posted 3 Aug 2010 9:17 am    
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Speaking of changers, when is someone going to design one that equalizes string tension on the top side of the top shelf of the guitar with pull/tuning tension on the bottom side of the top shelf?
I trully believe this will eliminate most of the cabinet drop issues.
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 4 Aug 2010 3:10 pm    
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Jim, I didn't quite understand that.. would you explain more in detail please?(So as to get thru to this dense mind)
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Pat Comeau


From:
New Brunswick, Canada
Post  Posted 8 Aug 2010 6:45 pm    
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Tim Heidner wrote:
Has anybody ever seen these crack? I can't get my 3rd string to stop that jangly sound, I tried smoothing out the surface where the string goes over the top but it didn't help, and it looks like it has a crack in it. It goes dead straight sideways across the finger.


Tim, it is probably worn to a ponit where you have to change it or really sand it a little deeper to get that crack smooth out and than polish , or...you can switch it from another fingers that was for bigger strings, for that you have to take the whole changer out.JMO Smile
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Comeau SD10 4x5, Comeau S10 3x5, Peavey Session 500,Fender Telecaster,Fender Stratocaster, Fender Precision,1978 Ovation Viper electric. Alvarez 4 strings Violin electric.

Click the links to listen to my Comeau's Pedal Steel Guitars.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hIYiaomZx3Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2GhZTN_yXI&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvDTw2zNriI
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 8 Aug 2010 6:52 pm    
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Thanks Pat, I just sanded it down some more and put a new string on and it sounds pretty good so far...maybe that string was getting wore out before it broke earlier.
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Bill Ford


From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
Post  Posted 10 Aug 2010 2:48 pm    
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Tim,
If the crack is parallel with the string, you have solved the problem by sanding/polishing it out. If it is parallel with the changer axle, you need a new changer finger.

When sanding/polishing the top of the changer, be careful not to change the arc, and keep it flat side to side. Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat object, and follow the contour of the finger.

Bill
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John Polstra


From:
Lopez Island, WA, USA
Post  Posted 11 Aug 2010 7:28 am    
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How do you guys keep the metal filings from falling into the changer mechanism?

John
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 11 Aug 2010 3:33 pm    
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John Polstra wrote:
How do you guys keep the metal filings from falling into the changer mechanism?

John
I didn't worry about it, I did cover up as much as I could around the changer and on the pickup with tape.
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