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Topic: Finger bend, finger pull, or behind the bar bend |
Jonathan Slyker
From:
Montclair, New Jersey, USA
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Posted 15 Jul 2010 7:01 am |
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I'm a newbie. I've heard several players refer to the technique of putting more tension on a string behind the bar by pushing (string 10) or pulling with the finger. I know this is common but I couldn't find the topic when searching the forum with the above terms. anybody remember a previous post and can help me find it, or help me learn more about the technique?
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MCI D-10 (Curly Chalker's last guitar) Curly's C6th on front neck; Johnny Cox’s E13th on back with E9th pedals.
Widgren custom-built 12 string keyless lap. |
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Bill Terry
From:
Bastrop, TX
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Posted 15 Jul 2010 7:28 am
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I don't know about others, but for the first string I just grab it behind the bar with the ring finger on the bar hand and pull it, while leaving the bar in position. It's easier than it sounds. The 10th string might be another matter all together..
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Lost Pines Studio
"I'm nuts about bolts" |
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Jonathan Slyker
From:
Montclair, New Jersey, USA
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Posted 15 Jul 2010 7:36 am Behind bar pull
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I hate to be a wimp, but have you ever had strings bust because of doing this? it seems like I have to pull real hard to get the pitch up a half step. is half step all the raise you're able to get with the pull?
_________________
MCI D-10 (Curly Chalker's last guitar) Curly's C6th on front neck; Johnny Cox’s E13th on back with E9th pedals.
Widgren custom-built 12 string keyless lap. |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 15 Jul 2010 10:43 am
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I use the "choke" pull on the first string sometimes. I have whole tone raise with a half stop to take it F#/G/G#, but if just want a quick slur or bend, it's easier to just pull behind the bar as stated. You can do it quite easily with a little practice.
You're pulling it sideways, so I don't know if it puts more stress on the string, finger and roller that way. I suppose it could shorten the life to some degree, but I doubt there would be any more fatigue than bending it a whole tone on a lever.
I wouldn't want to try to pull it a whole tone that way though.
I don't have any experience pushing or pulling the 10th string in this manner so can't comment on that. |
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Jonathan Slyker
From:
Montclair, New Jersey, USA
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Posted 15 Jul 2010 10:48 am
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the forum is awesome. thanks, you guys.
_________________
MCI D-10 (Curly Chalker's last guitar) Curly's C6th on front neck; Johnny Cox’s E13th on back with E9th pedals.
Widgren custom-built 12 string keyless lap. |
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Clete Ritta
From:
San Antonio, Texas
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Posted 16 Jul 2010 1:37 am
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I don't use behind bar pulls yet, but I like to press on the strings behind the nut when playing open or harmonics on steel or guitar. the longer strings are easier 
Here's a thread.
Search for behind bar pull (all terms) for others.
I always enjoy ed packards posts.
here's one on topic from this post here.
| ed packard wrote: |
This subject is not much discussed re pedals: Finger pulls behind the bar, and slants.
If you have a 6th type tuning = E6, A6, C6, B6 on your PSG (with or without pedals/levers engaged), you have strings that give 1,3,5,6 intervals...often on adjacent strings.
If you finger pull the 3, you get the 6s4 chord.
If you finger pull the 6, you get the 7 chord.
If you finger pull the 1 and 7 you get the m6b5 (dim7) one fret down.
If you finger pull the 5 & 7 you get the 7#5 chord.
Finger pulling string 1 (F#) on the E9 is good for a
#9...same if you have a str 1 D above your C6.
The string 1 pull on an A6 (P1P2 on E9) adds a 7 to the A chord.
String 1 pulls are the easiest.
Pulls below the 4th fret will be more difficult in general.
Finger pulls may be combined with each other, and combined with slants.
If you have adjacent strings = 1,3,5,6 (think C,E,G,A = the I chord)on some fret, a forward slant can get you C,F,A = the IV chord inverted, and up two frets gets you the V chord (D,G,B) on the same strings.
If your 6th based tuning(via with or without changes)is re-entrant = 1,3,5,6,1,3,5,6 or similar, then there are many more options.
I can hear it now...that is what we have pedals and levers for.
Anyone else use these approaches?
After thought = this could be made easier if the string spacing was "changer wide" at both ends as on my BEAST. The Beast is also a 30 inch scale, which allows f pulls on more frets. |
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Jonathan Slyker
From:
Montclair, New Jersey, USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2010 5:11 am behind bar string pull
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oy o boy. be careful what you ask for, you just might get it. How rich. this is why I love the forum. thanks so much.
_________________
MCI D-10 (Curly Chalker's last guitar) Curly's C6th on front neck; Johnny Cox’s E13th on back with E9th pedals.
Widgren custom-built 12 string keyless lap. |
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Jonathan Slyker
From:
Montclair, New Jersey, USA
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Posted 16 Jul 2010 5:27 am pulls and slants
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When I thought this material over further, it intersected with another "newbie" type question I have. I just started playing much more lap. My lap and the pedal C6 have the same tuning (C6). I'm also focusing a lot on C6 (Pedal)these days, but actually get to play more on the lap. My question is this: if the basic harmonic structure is essentially equivalent betweem the lap and the C6, do you more advanced players use your knowledge about string relationships (e.g. lowering S6 with C to go from M to m)to think slant on lap and think pedal (i.e. P6) on pedal C6? Do you work it the other way around, like using slants on pedal C6 to substitute for a slant that you would normally use on lap? Do more people start on lap and go to pedal or the other way around? Forgive the obsess, maybe it's obvious.
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MCI D-10 (Curly Chalker's last guitar) Curly's C6th on front neck; Johnny Cox’s E13th on back with E9th pedals.
Widgren custom-built 12 string keyless lap. |
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Bill Ford
From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
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Posted 17 Jul 2010 11:58 am
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Here is a good example of pulling/pressing behind the roller nut.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w1s054PrC-o
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Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!! |
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