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Post new topic Sho-Bud Refurb - 6/28/2010 ***DONE***
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Author Topic:  Sho-Bud Refurb - 6/28/2010 ***DONE***
Skip Ellis


From:
Bradenton, Fl USA
Post  Posted 15 May 2010 8:27 am    
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Well, I'm going to take the plunge and try to refurb my first steel that I just bought back after it being away for 34 years. It's basically a blond Lloyd Green with a long story attached. I've got a couple questions for you restorers:

1.) The end plates have oxidized to a dull gray color. Can the shine be brought back with a pad on the drill and some Simichrome. The changer housing is in about the same condition.

2.) What's a good product to clean up the changer? I'm thinking lacquer thinner or carb cleaner.

3.) Who carries the white ShoBud fretboards? I want to get rid of the dust catcher.

4.) I want to try to get by without refinishing - what can I use to buff out the nitro finish that will get the grunge and smoke off it?

4.) Should I soak the Grovers in something or just try to buff up the exterior as best I can?

5.) Is there anyplace I can buy a metal Sho-Bud neck - I like the look and sound of metal over wood?

I think that's it for now. I'll try to post a few photos as I go along.

Thanks!!






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2013 Brook Torridge, 2014 Martin 000-18, two homebrew Teles, Evans RE200 amp, Quilter 101R head, understanding wife of 45 years. 'Steeless' at the moment but looking......


Last edited by Skip Ellis on 28 Jun 2010 10:38 am; edited 9 times in total
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 15 May 2010 9:16 am    
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"1.) The end plates have oxidized to a dull gray color. Can the shine be brought back with a pad on the drill and some Simichrome. The changer housing is in about the same condition. "

I have used California Custom products on some guitars. Their "Aluminum Deoxidizer" And "Purple Metal Polish." Alcoa's PDQ products are also very good. On my '67, stuff was just too dinged up to just polish by hand. I sanded the endplates and pedal rack with sandpapers, starting with 220, and working my way up to 1,200 wet and dry. Then took them to a local plater/polisher. I think I paid $30 for the endplates and rack, and they look fabulous. For everything else, I used a bench-mount buffer. About $100 at Sears. $20 at a yard sale.

"2.) What's a good product to clean up the changer? I'm thinking lacquer thinner or carb cleaner. "

I take everything completely apart and soak them in a parts cleaner that I got at a car store. It's a 1 gal. paint can with a parts rack that you submerge into the cleaner. Then I buff the parts with the buffer. Cleans springs nicely too!

"3.) Who carries the white ShoBud fretboards? I want to get rid of the dust catcher. "

James Morehead seems to be supplying those these days, as well as all other parts.

"4.) I want to try to get by without refinishing - what can I use to buff out the nitro finish that will get the grunge and smoke off it? "

Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Swirl Remover 2.0 does an amazing job, and is not aggressive. Follow with their Showcar Glaze.

"5.) Is there anyplace I can buy a metal Sho-Bud neck - I like the look and sound of metal over wood? "

Don't know fur shure. Contact James Morehead.

And get a bench-mount buffer. That's the single tool you will use the most.


1967 before;


After;


Last edited by John Billings on 15 May 2010 9:21 am; edited 1 time in total
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 15 May 2010 9:19 am    
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Addendum;
Hey you're in Bradenton! We may have talked about this before, but my family has a condo on Gulf Drive on Anna Maria. Haven't been there in years, cuz I'm on 24 hour emergency call at the water plant I operate. But when I retire (soon!) we'll have to get together.
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 15 May 2010 9:25 am    
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Another addendum for another 4;
Don't soak the grovers. They're packed with grease. Get the buffer, they'll shine up nicely.
And for small parts like screws;
Cut a piece of wooden dowel stock, drill a hole in the end and screw in the screw. Works well as a fixture to stuff with the buffer, and gives you something substantial to hold onto. Otherwise, the wheel will sometimes grab the screwhead and fling it into the nether regions of your shop!

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Skip Ellis


From:
Bradenton, Fl USA
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 1:17 pm    
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Been getting some good advice and managed to get the guitar stripped down to bare wood. I had forgotten that when we built it, we built the cabinet in two pieces - just overlapped and screwed. Between the 3 screws and the endplates it has been solid as a rock for 34 years so I guess it's OK. It will definitely make it easier to refinish so I think I'll go ahead with it. Not sure yet whether to go two tone or natural. Got all the parts for each lever and pedal in its own little bag. Endplates and pedal go off to the polisher tomorrow. Stay tuned for more thrilling adventures.
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2013 Brook Torridge, 2014 Martin 000-18, two homebrew Teles, Evans RE200 amp, Quilter 101R head, understanding wife of 45 years. 'Steeless' at the moment but looking......
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 1:30 pm    
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Skip, the two Perms I have are two piece bodies also. You've decided to refinish it, eh? I didn't think the body looked too bad. Bar dings, etc.?
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Skip Ellis


From:
Bradenton, Fl USA
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 1:38 pm    
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John - it's just kind of dirty looking and I'd really like to get the inlays all matching. Also there are a few runs. If I go natural, I'll put some aging toner in the first coat of lacquer and then spray it clear. I didn't realize Sho Bud built these in 2 pieces - I guess I did something right and didn't know it.
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2013 Brook Torridge, 2014 Martin 000-18, two homebrew Teles, Evans RE200 amp, Quilter 101R head, understanding wife of 45 years. 'Steeless' at the moment but looking......
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 1:46 pm    
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Sounds like a good plan, Skip! I think ShoBud didn't make all double necks in two pieces. My '67 S-10, with the shelf, is glued up into one piece. My circa '63 Perm body has damage from the screws, a split in the rounded edge of the E neck. I'm pretty sure the '72 that I had was glued up.
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Skip Ellis


From:
Bradenton, Fl USA
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 2:26 pm    
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This is the one!!

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2013 Brook Torridge, 2014 Martin 000-18, two homebrew Teles, Evans RE200 amp, Quilter 101R head, understanding wife of 45 years. 'Steeless' at the moment but looking......


Last edited by Skip Ellis on 17 May 2010 6:15 am; edited 3 times in total
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 2:29 pm    
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Looks good Skip. BTW, I really liked the thick honey color that the guitar was.
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Skip Ellis


From:
Bradenton, Fl USA
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 2:34 pm    
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Thanks, John - that's 34 years worth of cigarette smoke. I think I can duplicate it with toner. As to the banding I canceled the order for this one - I think it really something with a dark border to set off the natural. I'll pick a different one.
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2013 Brook Torridge, 2014 Martin 000-18, two homebrew Teles, Evans RE200 amp, Quilter 101R head, understanding wife of 45 years. 'Steeless' at the moment but looking......
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 2:36 pm    
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Which company are you lookin' at Skip? I lost my info on inlays.
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Skip Ellis


From:
Bradenton, Fl USA
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 2:43 pm    
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I'll probably end up going to Constantine's but there are some other places if you a search for 'inlay banding'.
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2013 Brook Torridge, 2014 Martin 000-18, two homebrew Teles, Evans RE200 amp, Quilter 101R head, understanding wife of 45 years. 'Steeless' at the moment but looking......
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 2:47 pm    
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Thanks. I think Constantines was the one I thought I had saved.
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Fred Shannon


From:
Rocking "S" Ranch, Comancheria, Texas, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 5:20 pm    
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Skip darn good thread and John thanks for all the good info. Lots of people need to read this one. Ain't it amazin' when two people really get their heads together?


phred
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Larry Bressington

 

From:
Nebraska
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 6:16 pm    
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Fred Shannon wrote:
Skip darn good thread and John thanks for all the good info. Lots of people need to read this one. Ain't it amazin' when two people really get their heads together?


phred


I agree fred, good stuff!
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Rusty Rhoads

 

From:
The Motor City
Post  Posted 16 May 2010 7:11 pm     Referbishing
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Hi guys pass this around the forum i'am starting to do referbs on sho buds i can get any parts for your tired aho buds and iam resonable and will do some trade off's if u have any vintage fender guitars or amps pre -90s for trade on a referb contact me at 615 524 8969 Rusty
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Skip Ellis


From:
Bradenton, Fl USA
Post  Posted 17 May 2010 8:14 am    
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Just got back from the polisher's shop - can't afford him - not even close, so I guess I'm on my own. We'll see how it goes.
_________________
2013 Brook Torridge, 2014 Martin 000-18, two homebrew Teles, Evans RE200 amp, Quilter 101R head, understanding wife of 45 years. 'Steeless' at the moment but looking......
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 17 May 2010 8:17 am    
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How much did he want? I found a small shop that was willing to do the job. The day I dropped my parts off, he was polishing up the aluminum engine parts from a '54 BSA Road Rocket. Some shops will only do large orders.
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Skip Ellis


From:
Bradenton, Fl USA
Post  Posted 17 May 2010 8:46 am    
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He wanted $125.00 for the 2 end plates, 4 knee levers and changer housing. I thought that was a little much since I did one of the knees with my Dremel in about 10 minutes last night! I got me a jar of Mothers and a cloth wheel on my drill, so I'm headed for the garage.
_________________
2013 Brook Torridge, 2014 Martin 000-18, two homebrew Teles, Evans RE200 amp, Quilter 101R head, understanding wife of 45 years. 'Steeless' at the moment but looking......
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John Billings


From:
Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 17 May 2010 8:50 am    
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He's nutz! With the big buffing wheels those guys have, that's about a 1/2 hour job!
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Skip Ellis


From:
Bradenton, Fl USA
Post  Posted 17 May 2010 8:59 am    
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That's what I thought - he tested one of them - he did the short side of one of the endplates in about 2 minutes. I told him thanks anyway but my budget wouldn't cover it. I'd have been OK with $25 or $30 which the job is probably worth.
_________________
2013 Brook Torridge, 2014 Martin 000-18, two homebrew Teles, Evans RE200 amp, Quilter 101R head, understanding wife of 45 years. 'Steeless' at the moment but looking......
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Jim Lindsey (Louisiana)


From:
Greenwell Springs, Louisiana (deceased)
Post  Posted 17 May 2010 3:22 pm    
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Skip Ellis wrote:
This is the one!!


Hi, Skip ... this is the same trim that's in my Mullen and I love it. Where do you purchase or order this particular trim?
_________________
1986 Mullen D-10 with 8 & 7 (Dual Bill Lawrence 705 pickups each neck)
Two Peavey Nashville 400 Amps (with a Session 500 in reserve) - Yamaha SPX-90 II
Peavey ProFex II - Yamaha R-1000 Digital Reverb - Ross Time Machine Digital Delay - BBE Sonic Maximizer 422A
ProCo RAT R2DU Dual Distortion - Korg DT-1 Pro Tuner (Rack Mounted) - Furman PL-8 Power Bay
Goodrich Match-Bro by Buddy Emmons - BJS Steel Bar (Dunlop Finger Picks / Golden Gate Thumb Picks)
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Skip Ellis


From:
Bradenton, Fl USA
Post  Posted 17 May 2010 3:33 pm    
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Hi Jim - I ordered it from Constantine's Woodworking. I ordered it online and they ship it to me from a store they have here in Florida. I ordered the last 4 pieces they had and one was broken but it was still long enough to do the neck so I went ahead and took it. I'm sure they'll restock it. It's 3/8" wide and what's in the original neck is 5/16" but I found a 3/8" cutting height rabbeting bit that will cut out the old and leave the right width slot for the new one.
_________________
2013 Brook Torridge, 2014 Martin 000-18, two homebrew Teles, Evans RE200 amp, Quilter 101R head, understanding wife of 45 years. 'Steeless' at the moment but looking......
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Jim Lindsey (Louisiana)


From:
Greenwell Springs, Louisiana (deceased)
Post  Posted 17 May 2010 5:47 pm    
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Thanks, Skip ... I think you've chosen a very nice inlay and it's always been one of my all-time favorites. I've looked on and off for that trim and had not found it available. When I'm in better position financially, and when they restock it, I'll contact Constantine's and order a stock of it to have on hand (I want it for my next guitar, too ... that is, if I ever get the money to have a next guitar Wink). Here's a photo of how my current guitar looks with that trim on it ...



Skip Ellis wrote:
... that's 34 years worth of cigarette smoke. I think I can duplicate it with toner.

I'm eager to see how your guitar comes out. I think the guitar trimmed out in the inlay you've chosen is going to look fantastic. Smile

By the way, the Meguiar's product mentioned earlier should do a fantastic job on the lacquer if you're trying to avoid refinishing. Years ago, before selling my MSA Classic XL, I wanted to really clean the guitar up so it'd look great for whoever bought it. I used a Meguiar's cleaner/polisher product on it to get all the built up nicotine off of it, then followed up with a final polish using Excalibur Carnauba Auto Polish ... it turned out so good I nearly backed out of selling it.
_________________
1986 Mullen D-10 with 8 & 7 (Dual Bill Lawrence 705 pickups each neck)
Two Peavey Nashville 400 Amps (with a Session 500 in reserve) - Yamaha SPX-90 II
Peavey ProFex II - Yamaha R-1000 Digital Reverb - Ross Time Machine Digital Delay - BBE Sonic Maximizer 422A
ProCo RAT R2DU Dual Distortion - Korg DT-1 Pro Tuner (Rack Mounted) - Furman PL-8 Power Bay
Goodrich Match-Bro by Buddy Emmons - BJS Steel Bar (Dunlop Finger Picks / Golden Gate Thumb Picks)
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