| Author |
Topic: Does this ever happen to you? |
Anthony Locke
From:
Texas, USA
|
Posted 4 May 2010 6:57 am |
|
I've been encountering some mechanical "catch 22's" when it comes to tuning the C6 neck on my Sho-Bud Pro. When the string (any one) is in tune, and I depress the pedal (any one) and tune the pedal, the string with pedal un-engaged then goes out of tune, creating an impossible situation. Anybody know of any tricks of the trade that I could do from home that would fix this. I'm pretty new to pedals, and would appreciate any input from those folks who are more familiar with the mechanics of this wonderful instrument
Thanks!! |
|
|
 |
Mike Neer
From:
NJ
|
|
|
|
Scott Swartz
From:
St. Louis, MO
|
Posted 4 May 2010 7:14 am
|
|
Its important to note that cabinet drop is typically 3-8 cents (as a rough guideline), so if you are seeing more than that it could be some other mechanical problem such as the changer binding.
Does the un-pulled string return to being in tune when you release the pedal?
_________________
Scott Swartz
Steeltronics - Steel Guitar Pickups
www.steeltronics.com |
|
|
|
Anthony Locke
From:
Texas, USA
|
Posted 4 May 2010 7:46 am
|
|
Thank you for that link, Mike. I will certainly use it as a reference when I get a chance to actually work on the guitar.
Scott-The un-pulled string will return to it's proper tuning only if I don't tune the pedal. Otherwise, the pedal note will be in tune, but the open string won't be...aaarrrgggg!!!
Thanks for the input, gentlemen. |
|
|
|
David Nugent
From:
Gum Spring, Va.
|
Posted 4 May 2010 8:18 am
|
|
| Anthony...The pedals may be "overtuned". On the effected strings, tune the string to standard pitch, then slowly back off the nylon tuning nut that corresponds to the pedal that raises that particular string.. As you are turning the tuning nut (counterclockwise), check to see if the pitch of the string is lowering as you turn. If so, then the raise finger may still be engaged slightly when you fully release the pedal. Continue to back off the tuning nut completely until there is no difference in string pitch whether the pedal is raised or depressed. Tune the string open to pitch and retune your pedal. If the pedal raise cannot be tuned to pitch without the problem returning, you may not have enough throw on the pullrod and repositioning it to a different hole on the bellcrank may help. |
|
|
|
Clete Ritta
From:
San Antonio, Texas
|
Posted 4 May 2010 2:42 pm
|
|
I've noticed that the low 10th string C tends to come back a tad sharp from A when releasing the boo-wah pedal, but returns to normal after being raised to D and back. This is normal hysterisis on a thick wound string I suppose, and a little more noticeable on the low 12th string B on my uni than on D10, but just another physical factor in the mechanism we call PSG.
I thought cabinet drop was the effect of other non-raised or lowered strings going sharp or flat when a pedal or lever is used. Both cabinet drop and hysterisis are present in many PSGs anyway.
The best I can do is set the change as accurately as possible for the raises first, then the lower (hitting the raise between tuning checks) and once tuned, try to play more and tune less. 
Suggestions regarding loosening the tuners and making sure they are not over-tuned is always a good place to start. Also, check your rollers at the keyhead and make sure they are lubed and spin freely. If any dont, they will trap tension from the key to the nut. Check the changer and make sure it is returning fully to its original position. Sometimes spring tension needs to be adjusted if its an older guitar and/or you've changed guages. Start with brand new strings!
Clete |
|
|
|
Brandon Wright
From:
Austin, Texas, USA
|
Posted 5 May 2010 1:16 am asdf
|
|
i only get cabinet drop if i tighten or loosen my hex heads a good deal. I would just kinda gradually tune the string and the pedal back and worth in small ammounts till it works it's self in there. That way it doesn't have the chance to run wild on ya.
Clete is dead on with the lubing of the changer rollers. I've notcied since i've replaced my strings and lubed everything up. I get less string rattle. Less cabinet drop, smoother bends and an all around better sounding guitar.
I pretty much detail and lube her down everytime i change the strings. it's kinda fun. Some people do it with the rims of the car. I do it with my guitar. On a nice sunny day....in the front yard. haha
To agree with Clete again...At one point i found myself tuning more than i was playing and now i don't even worry about it anymore. I just start playing. Cause i figured out sometimes it's all in your head or your just playing sloppy and thats why it sounds ugly to you. Cause you'll go to tune it and everything will be fine. |
|
|
|
Brett Lanier
From:
Hermitage, TN
|
Posted 5 May 2010 9:43 am spring tension
|
|
If you lower a string and it comes back sharp, the return spring could be too tight. If you loosen the spring, just make sure the spring doesn't stretch at all when you raise that string with another pedal/lever.
If you lower a string and it comes back flat, there could be not enough tension from the spring, and may need to be tightened, but check to make sure nothing is catching inside the changer before adjusting spring tension.
When I oil the changer, I like to flip the guitar over about thirty seconds after. A lot of dust, dead skin, and dirty oil will drain onto the rag.
Also check to make sure the tuning keys are tightened up well. |
|
|
|
Herb Steiner
From:
Briarcliff TX 78669, pop. 2,064
|
Posted 5 May 2010 2:42 pm
|
|
Anthony
If you want to bring the guitar over some time, I'll take a look at it and perhaps we can figure it out.
HS
_________________
My rig: Infinity and Telonics.
Son, we live in a world with walls, and those walls have to be guarded by men with steel guitars. Who's gonna do it? You? You, Lt. Weinberg? |
|
|
|
Anthony Locke
From:
Texas, USA
|
Posted 12 May 2010 1:53 pm
|
|
| I finally had the time to address this issue. It WAS overtuned. It took about 10 minutes to fix. Thanks a bunch for the info!! |
|
|
|
