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Topic: Bridge advice |
Mark Bracewell
From:
Willow Glen, California
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Posted 13 Jun 2009 9:14 pm |
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Hi all, newbie here. I've just completed my first lap steel and before I finish the next one (I'm hooked) I need some general advice about bridges. What do you love in a bridge, what do you dislike? Do you like a sharp bend of the string or a softer one? Do you like a bridge that's rounded like a tone bar, or one that's got pointy notched saddle (like a tuneomatic for example). Do you want to be able to damp strings back there, or do most folks play away from the bridge? Do you think there's any value in having compensation in the bridge (that's prolly a can-o-worms question, never mind!) How about compensation for height (same as at the nut where you want the string tops to be all the same height)?
Sorry, lots of questions 
Here's my first shot at it...
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Roger Palmer
From:
Rossendale, UK
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Posted 14 Jun 2009 12:28 am
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Nice work Mark,
Looks like you've already got a nice bridge there already......did you make it or buy it? |
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norm mcdaniel
From:
waco tx
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Posted 14 Jun 2009 5:23 am
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Hi Mark---Looks like you already have a great start on building. Im hooked as well. I was wondering where you got the bridge from did ya order it from some place? Help me Please. Keep on building!!!!!
Norm McDaniel
Waco Tx |
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Mark Bracewell
From:
Willow Glen, California
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Posted 14 Jun 2009 11:09 am
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I made this one - brass plate and bar stock, pretty easy to work with. It's going to tarnish quickly.
Part of the reason for all the questions is I'd like to make a bunch of them once I get a design that's good, probably out of silicon bronze which looks nice and according to wikipedia is resistant to barnacles - that can't hurt eh?
Then perhaps I could trade or sell some of them. The number and spacing of strings would be custom.
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Jim Dickinson
From:
Washington, USA
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Posted 14 Jun 2009 12:21 pm
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Nickel plate it, it's easy. You need a power supply that puts out about 3 volts, a glass jar and the right kind of acid and some wires. You can buy a very bright nickel solution from Rio Grande (jeweler's supply) that works great, they also sell the nickel anode. You can even use a piece of stainless steel for the anode, it works fine.
When plating on steel, one has to use a copper flash plating on it to get the Nickel to stick. You already have the base so you can just plate the nickel on top of it. You will want to polish the copper real good before plating, the finish depends a lot on the smoothness of the base, and it has to be perfectly clean.
Then hang your item from an attached copper wire into the solution, apply the 3 Volts, plus to the Nickel donator plate, minus to the bridge, and hold it in the solution, jiggle it around some. Won't take long, the longer you submerse it, the thicker the plating. Then remove it, wash it off, and polish it, wax it to keep it form oxidizing, looks great.
Copper/Nickel plating is the base for Chrome, but Chrome plating chemicals are real nasty, leave that to a plating shop, Nickel's easy.
By the way, nice job.
Jim |
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Jim Konrad
From:
The Great Black Swamp USA
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Posted 14 Jun 2009 1:36 pm
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Looks good and also looks like it should sound great. What about a string through version?
Not sure if it would make a difference but you might also consider putting a couple of screws through the heavy brass part of bridge. Maybe 3 total, 2 in the bridge and one behind it?
There is IMO no need for any height adjustment. I would just find out what is the accepted height for strings and go with that. Your angles also look good to me.
Cool!! |
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Mark Bracewell
From:
Willow Glen, California
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Posted 15 Jun 2009 7:46 pm
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Thanks Jim & Jim -
plating sounds like my kind of fun - thanks for the tips! |
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Thomas Ludwig
From:
Augsburg, Germany
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Posted 16 Jun 2009 2:12 am
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Mark,
nice work, your lapsteel looks perfect.
Thomas |
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Rick Collins
From:
Claremont , CA USA
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Posted 16 Jun 2009 8:04 am
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...good job, Mark. You probably could not do better on the bridge.
Here's an idea the picture gave me:
For flexibility and experimentation, you might drill eight small holes in the body
to accommodate mounting "strings through the body".
Some strings you might want to go through the body,
some you might want to mount in the same fashion shown in your picture. |
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Mark Roeder
From:
Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 16 Jun 2009 9:37 am
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Nice job, looks great. String through design may give you more sustain. Not sure if it has been scientificly proven. Its great to see homemade instruments.
_________________
www.deluxe34.com lap steel stands, Clinesmith, Gibson Console Grande, Northwesterns, The Best Westerns
https://www.facebook.com/TheBestWesterns |
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Al Szwarc
From:
Metuchen, New Jersey, USA * R.I.P.
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Posted 16 Jun 2009 10:22 am Lap Steel
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| Don't stop now. Looks like you have something there. Ezcellent job, appealing details, nice body shape. Let us see more when you build. Thanks al |
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Mark Mansueto
From:
Michigan, USA
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Bill Creller
From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
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Posted 20 Jun 2009 4:19 pm
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There is an outfit called Casswell, or maybe Caswell. Anyway, they have plating kits, for nickel, etc. I had a nickel plating kit, but gave it to one of my kids to fool with.
You may find them with a google search. Sounds like it's right down your alley 
Very nice job on that guitar. |
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Jim Dickinson
From:
Washington, USA
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Posted 20 Jun 2009 7:10 pm
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The Rio Grande stuff is way less expensive and works just as well. a friend of mine is a Jeweler and helped with plating some rifle parts. I suppose the Caswell set works just fine, but one can do the plating with $15.00 of plating solution and 5 bucks of annode, a glass jar and 2 D Cell 1 1/2 volt batteries. If you got a 3 volt power supply all the better. Actually a 6 volt battery charger with a variable pot resistor and a cheapy Digital multi meter to check the voltage will work too, The Rio Grande plating solution is Jewelry grade and polished up looks like chrome. I'll bet that you could do 50 bridges with the solution.
Just from my experience. Jim |
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Mark Bracewell
From:
Willow Glen, California
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Posted 20 Jun 2009 9:10 pm
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Back when I was a kid (so far back that the internet was made of wood) my Dad & I built a variable voltage power supply (a kit from Eico) and he used it to show me how to copper plate stuff with copper sulfate. I still have that power supply, so I'm all set there, but what interests me is that you guys seem to like nickel - granted I do too, more than chrome or stainless, but do you like it more than say gold plating, or shiny brass or bronze? On a guitar I mean.
There is the problem with RoHS compliance (nickel plate has lead in it), not to mention the barnacle resistance that bronze has, which appeals to me (much the same as 29 frets does 'cause it's a prime number).
Y'all are giving me food for thought, which is what I wanted, so thanks! |
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Tom Pettingill
From:
California, USA (deceased)
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Mark Bracewell
From:
Willow Glen, California
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Posted 21 Jun 2009 8:38 pm
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| Tom Pettingill wrote: |
| Nice job Mark ! |
Double nice job back at you Tom!! |
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