24 1/4 scale vs. 22 1/2 scale

Jim Waldrop · From: Alabama, USA

What are the advantages and disadvantages between the 24 1/4 scale and the 22 1/2 scale? If you switch back and forth between the two scales during practice and playing, will it cause problems?
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Georgeboards D8 Twin Princess, Fender Custom T8, Fender Stringmaster T8, Pre-war Rickenbacher 7string bakelite, Clinesmith D8 pedal steel, Clinesmith T8 non pedal steel, Simmons Genesis PSG, Simmons D10 psg, Peavey NV 112, Fender 65Princeton Reverb, Roland Cube

Bob Hoffnar · From: Austin, Tx

I have been dealing with that issue a bit these days. I find it difficult to keep my slants natural and in tune switching back and forth between scale lengths.
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Bob

basilh · From: United Kingdom

I also depends on the string spacing as to whether the slants are more or less difficult.. i.e narrow spacing on a 22 1/2" is more difficult to slant on than a wider spacing on a 24 1/4" IMHO
(In the lower fret positions of course)
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Steelies do it without fretting

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Wayne Cox · From: Chatham, Louisiana, USA * R.I.P.

Another aspect to consider is this: longer (vs. shorter) scale lengths generally produce longer sustaining notes and longer apparent string life. But there are exceptions to every rule. I have an old National D-8 which, in spite of its short scale, has beautiful sustaining qualities. It is heavy and the wood in its body is obviously very high quality with superior cabinet resonance. Also, you get less string breakage with shorter scale steels. Overall I favor longer scales & string lengths, but there are some great sounding short scale steels out there. I don't like to jump from one scale to another, it is a bit disorienting. IMHO
~~W.C.~~

Mark Roeder · From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA

I would add that parallel strings on the longer scales help as does the spacing with slants. I like alittle over 3/8" with parallel strings on 24" scale. Slants seem pretty easy anywhere on the neck

Wayne Cox · From: Chatham, Louisiana, USA * R.I.P.

MARK is is right on target! Because most steels have a tapered scale and fretboard,most potential buyers won't even consider any thing else. Tapered is what they are used to. Unfortunately there aren't many steels with the parallel spaced strings available,but if you are fortunate enough to try one you'll see that Mark is right;bar slants are easier. Another member of the forum,Andy Hinton, built a D-8 that is tapered in the oposite direction from "normal". In other words, the widest string spacing is on the "nut" end of the scale not the bridge. That concept gives it a different look and feel but I have to admit that it sounds great and plays great! Slants and open string work are easier once you get oriented to the look. Just my $0.02 worth.
~~W.C.~~

Mark Roeder · From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA

Wayne, I had that idea, (reverse taper) once I thought about it I realized that reverse slants would have the same difficulty as forward slants have in standard taper. Some guitars are easily altered, some (especialy vintage) you don't want to mess with. When I made my own I made the strings parallel.

George Kovolenko · From: Estero, Florida, USA

How do you measure the scale? I'm guessing from the nut to the bridge. I just measured mine and it's 23". Does that sound correct? It's an old Silvertone (Supro).

Eddie Cunningham · From: Massachusetts, USA

IMHO the shorter scale is better , more playable for Hawaiian slants and has excellent sustain !! I don't think you will have any problem switching fron one scale to another !! Jerry Byrd always played the 22 1/2 scale on his old Rickenbacher and it didn't get much better than that for tone and sustain !!! Eddie "C"

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