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Topic: help with 6 string lower |
Lee Bartram
From: Sparta, Kentucky, USA
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Posted 11 Apr 2009 4:46 am
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i know i've seen this discussed before but i cain't seem to find it and i guess i should remember but i don't.. anyway on my Derby when i lower my 6th g# to F # the string returns flat and i have to touch the b pedal a little and it comes on back up to pitch. it seems to have just stared at least to were i have noticed it.beside oiling the roller and changer finger what else could it be?it's a new guitar just bougth it From Charlie in Januaray of this year so nothin should be worn . |
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Jerry Overstreet
From: Louisville Ky
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Posted 11 Apr 2009 4:56 am
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Hi Lee. I'd suggest tightening up the lower return spring for string 6 just a little bit at a time while checking to see if that solves your problem.
You could have some interference from an adjacent rod or finger, but that wouldn't be expected on a new guitar. |
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Lee Bartram
From: Sparta, Kentucky, USA
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Posted 11 Apr 2009 8:30 am
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Thanks Jerry,that did it seems to be ok now.i guess it had loosened up a little since i got it. |
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Paul Redmond
From: Illinois, USA
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Posted 15 Apr 2009 11:52 pm
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Setting up the G# to F# drop on #6 is as follows---Tune #6 string. Tune G# to A raise. Tune raises and lower together for an accurate G. The F# will be flat. Install bumper rod to tweak over-lowered F# back to true F#. It requires a new rod on the same crank to just bump up the sour F# a bit and is then tuneable at the endplate when the drop is used by itself. I use it all the time and love that change...most guitars won't do this without a "bumper rod". If you can achieve this via the balance springs, good luck. You're walking on eggshells!!!
PRR |
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memphislim
From: Austin, Texas
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Posted 16 Apr 2009 10:13 am
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Paul, can you explain the bumper rod concept a little more? I haven't heard or seen that before. What does engages it a foot pedal, knee? Which one? |
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Paul Redmond
From: Illinois, USA
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Posted 16 Apr 2009 9:01 pm
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You can use the very same bellcrank which activates the G# to F# pull from which to run the "bumper" rod. When the F# drop is used with the G# to A raise, you tune the "lower" to engage an accurate G using the two pulls together. When you release the pedal, you'll now notice the F# drop is too low...not by much on most guitars, but enough to really sound bad. So you add a rod to that very same bellcrank, but run it thru a hole in the raise finger of the 6th-string changer. Run the nylon nut up gradually and you'll immediately see that sour F# come back up to a true F#. You'll want to use the hole in the bellcrank that's closest to the centerline of the cross-shaft if that's possible for minimal rod movement...it only takes a little "bump" to bring the over-lowered note back up to where it belongs.
The late Zane Beck taught me that back in the early 1980's and I've been doing it that way ever since on that particular pull.
You do have to use the tuning sequence outlined in my previous post or you'll get lost and nothing will pan out properly.
Some guitars such as the Kline, have a set screw in the changer housing with which you can adjust that F# drop and not need the rod. But if your guitar doesn't have that feature and you don't want to go drilling and tapping a hole somewhere, the bumper rod is the best alternative.
FWIW I have that extra rod configuration on six of my own guitars, and recently installed it on a friend's new GFI. Once that "bump" rod is set, you'll rarely if ever have to change its tuning unless you get an out-of-gage string, or change from plain to wound or vice-versa.
PRR |
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