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Topic: Will a p/p raise F# to G#?? |
Steve English
From:
Baja, Arizona
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 6:28 am |
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Do any of you pushies raise your high F# to G#?
I was attempting that pull last night and it doesn't seem like I have travel on my rkl to accomplish it, even when there's no other pulls on that lever.
Hep me.........
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Always remember you're unique..... Just like everyone else |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 6:43 am
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I pull this change on a steeler's guitar a while ago and the best way I found was to use an extended bellcrank.
There isn't enough travel on a regular bellcrank to get the job done. |
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Steve English
From:
Baja, Arizona
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 6:59 am
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Thanks Erv,
Did you fabricate the extension, or is the readily part available?
I'd love to see a picture of that pull.
_________________
Always remember you're unique..... Just like everyone else |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 7:23 am
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I don't think they're commercially available.
I took an old bellcrank and cut the part off that fits on the cross shaft and fastened the part that hooks up to the pull rod onto the existing bellcrank with a couple of little bolts.
There's another way to accomplish this whole tone pull but you need to reposition and pull rod and it screws up your normal tuning procedure, I opted not to use this method.  |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 7:42 am
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I had that change on my old push/pull and didn't have to add any special hardware.
Click Here
What size string are you using? Have you tried adjusting the travel on the knee-lever?
Lee |
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Russ Tkac
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 7:52 am
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Check out this thread.
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=154763
My steel has this pull with a feel stop. I believe that Dave Peterson repositioned the bellcrank to get the travel. Look at the before and after pictures. I can PM his contact info if you're interested.
Russ |
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Steve English
From:
Baja, Arizona
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 7:54 am
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Lee,
Very interesting! I disconnected the other pull on this lever (lowering string 6, G# to F#) in order to eliminate any other stops, and still could not get close to raise the high F# to G#.
I use the S.I.T. Buddy Emmons set of nickel strings...can't think of what the size the high F# is off-hand.
I can't imagine how there could be enough travel available except for Erv's method.
Tell me more!
_________________
Always remember you're unique..... Just like everyone else |
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Jeremy Steele
From:
Princeton, NJ USA
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 7:57 am
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| I have both the 6th string lower and the first string raise on the right-knee-left lever on both my PP guitars...no problems whatsoever. |
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Skip Edwards
From:
LA,CA
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 8:05 am
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Mine does, and it also lowers the 6th string a whole tone with the same lever.
At rest - open - the 1st string finger is in a lowered position (with the bottom row allen screw tuning the open note) so there's enough travel to reach the whole tone raise. |
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Steve English
From:
Baja, Arizona
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 8:22 am
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Russ, Thanks for the link and pics. I always enjoy looking at the bottom of p/p guitars. But I still don't see how there's enough travel for the 1st string to reach the end of it's pull (in relation to the shorter distance that the 2nd string is traveling).
Jeremy, I'd like to see pics of your first string pull.
Skip, I bottom the lower finger out and tune the lower to G#, then tune the open using the bottom row. The finger has enough travel to accomplish the pull, the lever doesn't. What am I missing?
_________________
Always remember you're unique..... Just like everyone else |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 8:27 am
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Steve,
As I alluded to above, I believe it is necessary to hook your pull rod up differently to the changer finger.
Then a different tuning procedure is required. |
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John Steele (deceased)
From:
Renfrew, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 8:30 am
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On mine, the neutral set screw on the lower row of tuning set screws is removed. Mike Cass set it up that way and it works fine. The half stop G is non adjustable.
-John |
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Skip Edwards
From:
LA,CA
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 8:31 am
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Steve, do you mean you bottom the lower finger out and tune the raise to G#?
Not sure about the lever, though...mine (RKL) reaches it just fine, although it is a fairly long throw. |
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Steve English
From:
Baja, Arizona
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 8:55 am
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My mistake..I raise the finger until it stops, tune the raise... Then tune the open with the lower row screws
Sorry 'bout the confusion!
_________________
Always remember you're unique..... Just like everyone else |
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Jeremy Steele
From:
Princeton, NJ USA
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 9:09 am
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| Sorry I can't post pix right now...but are you using the lowest hole in the raise finger for your F#-G# pull? That will make a difference. |
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Jeremy Steele
From:
Princeton, NJ USA
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 9:10 am
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| Sorry I can't post pix right now...but are you using the lowest hole in the raise finger for your F#-G# pull? That will make a difference....sorry for the double post. |
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Steve English
From:
Baja, Arizona
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 9:27 am
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Thanks Jeremy, I'll try that tonight.
_________________
Always remember you're unique..... Just like everyone else |
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Peter Freiberger
From:
California, USA
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 9:46 am
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I just saw a P/P that does this by removing the lowering return spring and hooking the pull rod to the lowering finger for a shorter pull. It also lowered the 6th string to F# with the same lever. The 1st string pull to G# tunes at the keyhead and F# would tune with the allen screw that normally tunes the lower I guess.
I do it with a .012 and an extended bellcrank as I also compensate the 1st string a bit lower with my B pedal. I cut the bottom off a bellcrank, cut the top at the hole for the swivel and welded it together. A little grinding and I was good to go. |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 11:29 am
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My P/P RKL does all three changes w/o modification...no problems:
1st st F#-->G#
2nd st D#-->E
6th st G#-->F#
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Steve English
From:
Baja, Arizona
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 1:22 pm
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Thanks for the pic Tony!
_________________
Always remember you're unique..... Just like everyone else |
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Darvin Willhoite
From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 3:01 pm
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I do it on my '75 with standard hardware.
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Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro. |
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Peter Freiberger
From:
California, USA
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 3:18 pm
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| Tony, With your 2nd string raise finger pulled up to D# by the extra spring how do you then raise it to E? I don't see any pull rod attached to the 2nd string in your picture. |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 3:31 pm
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| Peter Freiberger wrote: |
| Tony, With your 2nd string raise finger pulled up to D# by the extra spring how do you then raise it to E? I don't see any pull rod attached to the 2nd string in your picture. |
You're absolutely right. I was thinking about my Zum.
My p/p does not yet raise the 2nd string. I'm considering fabricating a half stop when I start the re-furb on it.
My p/p RKL should be corrected to:
1st st F#-->G#
6th st G#-->F#
3rd st C--->B (c-neck) |
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Joe Gorfinkle
From:
California, USA
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Posted 26 Mar 2009 3:59 pm
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| mine raises 1 from f# to g# and 7 from f# to g. not sure of what the mechanics are.. |
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Doug Beaumier
From:
Northampton, MA
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