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Post new topic Fender 2000 needs help!
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Author Topic:  Fender 2000 needs help!
Fred Glave


From:
McHenry, Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 13 Mar 2009 8:32 am    
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I'm not sure what it's actually called, but somehow I lost a changer fastener, or stop for my C pedal E string raise. Last night after I set up the guitar, I noticed that the E string was flat when I depressed the C pedal. This guitar never goes out of tune, so I was surprised. When I gave the screw a turn, I noticed that it was wobbly and loose. I can't find the part anywhere! What do I do? My Sho-Bud is in the shop, and this is it for now!

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Fred Shannon


From:
Rocking "S" Ranch, Comancheria, Texas, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 13 Mar 2009 8:35 am    
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It looks like that sleeve is the one that is not aligned with the rest. The Screw and spring should fit right into it.

phred
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Fred Glave


From:
McHenry, Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 13 Mar 2009 11:40 am    
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Yes. The sleeve, I believe, is threaded on the inside, and a metal loop is soldered to the end which slips over the changer. It anchors the changer to maintain tension when tuning adjustments are made. If I can't find that sleeve, I'm screwed!
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Fred Shannon


From:
Rocking "S" Ranch, Comancheria, Texas, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 13 Mar 2009 11:45 am    
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Fred, you're right. That sleeve on the 4th string that is slanted probably doesn't have a screw in it. If so then something is bent in there. See if you can lift that sleeve up and if there is a screw in it. I think that is the sleeve that fits on to the screw you see.

phred
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Fred Glave


From:
McHenry, Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 13 Mar 2009 12:57 pm    
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So you're thinking that the sleeve that appears to set higher, and slightly angled than the rest of them is the loose sleeve for the exposed screw? Hmmm. That is a "heads-up" observation! I'll investigate. I'm at work now, but when I get home, I'll give that a look. Thanks a ton Phred!
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Fred Shannon


From:
Rocking "S" Ranch, Comancheria, Texas, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 13 Mar 2009 1:34 pm    
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Fred, that's what it appears to me. We really need to get Jim Sliff on, he much more adept than me.

phred
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John Hansen

 

From:
Stanwood,Washington, USA
Post  Posted 15 Mar 2009 7:31 am    
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Fred , it looks like the sleeve is just unscrewed from the spring, looks like everything's there. Should be relatively easy to screw it back in. Looks like it would be the low E on the E9th neck. You can see how the other springs are compressed, but that one's totally slack. hope this helps. I love the old Fender guitars, I have a 400 that plays so smooth and easy.
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Fred Glave


From:
McHenry, Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2009 6:35 am    
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Thanks guys! Yes, the screw and spring were just seperated from the sleeve. It was fairly easy to repair. I made the mistake of putting my foot pedal rods on in the wrong order, and P3 was gounding out on the floor making the E string come in flat. I turned the screw to tune it, and of course couldn't!
Oh, this steel is a keeper. The tone, sustain, and ease-to play, are un-rivaled, even though it's not much to look at.
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Jim Sliff


From:
Lawndale California, USA
Post  Posted 16 Mar 2009 10:00 am    
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Fred beat me to it - glad it was solved! If the changer loop had disappeared it would not have been a disaster, though - they're easy to make and I usually have a few spares.

One thing I noticed, though, is that the fingers are all over the map. They should line up pretty evenly (although it could just be the camera angle). But if any ARE sticking out further than most, their turnbuckles need to be loosened a bit so the loops are not pulling them at "rest". Overtightened turnbuckles make a Fender really tough to tune, and they almost always return wrong - sometimes just a bit, some times a LOT.
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No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
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Fred Glave


From:
McHenry, Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 17 Mar 2009 6:12 am    
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Jim, the guitar tuners are responsive and easy to tune. Actually it stays in tune extremely well, and I very rarely need to tune the pedals or levers. That's why I was so shocked when my C pedal came in flat. How would I adjust the turnbuckles? Is it the screws above the tuning screws?
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Jim Sliff


From:
Lawndale California, USA
Post  Posted 17 Mar 2009 5:17 pm    
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The turnbuckles are connected to the pedal rod levers - turn the center one way and the assembly lengthens (loosens) - the other way it tightens. you want just enough tension that there's no slop in the pedals but the fingers are all lined up - otherwise you'll run into tuning problems with temperature or humidity changes along with other variables. I'll try to post a pic later.

It has nothing to do with the tuners, which are string-related. These are part of the cable assembly - one end is the pair of changer loops, the other the turnbuckle.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
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Fred Glave


From:
McHenry, Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 18 Mar 2009 5:10 am    
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Jim, a picture would help. My pedal rod ends have hooks that connect through a hole on a lever type mechanism (with 2 holes). The leverage and pedal response is changed depending on which hole the pedal rod goes in.
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Jim Sliff


From:
Lawndale California, USA
Post  Posted 18 Mar 2009 5:27 am    
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Actually it's the stuff connected to the OTHER hole I'm talking about - that's the turnbuckle. The end of the cable is soldered inside it.

When you turn the center of it you get more..or less...slack in the cable. If your changer fingers are pulled forward when a pedal is not depressed usually the problem is the turnbuckle that adusts the cable at the other end of the loop on the finger is tightened too much....slack it of and the open string should go flat a bit. If it does, the turnbuckle was absolutely too tight. You want it at the point where loosening it does nothing, and tightening it brings the open note up just a hair - that gives you quicker pedal action. A little slack is sometimes a good thing...it's a matter of personal taste and "feel".

But too tight and you're all messed up - notes will return sharp or flat and any temperature or humidity changes will throw your guitar out of tune.

Look at the picture below - on the lower left is a lever with two pedal-rod holes, and on the upper left a turnbuckle is attached to a single hole. It's a short (2 1/2" or so) rod with a loop that fits the lever and a cable coming out of the end. THAT is what needs to be adjusted.


_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
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Fred Glave


From:
McHenry, Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 18 Mar 2009 6:27 am    
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Jim, from your last post, I think you indicated that you sent a picture. If you did, it didn't go through. I'll post pictures of the underside of my guitar tomorrow. Thanks for your help.
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