| Author |
Topic: Has anyone split a NV400 into a head and speaker cab? |
Ed Mooney
From:
Evanston,IL
|
Posted 9 Dec 2008 3:31 pm |
|
As the years fly by, I'm having a harder time moving my Peavy Nashville 400 to gigs and rehearsals. Has anyone successfuly split it into a head and either built a new bottom or just left the speaker in its cab? Did you build a box for the head? Thanks, Ed
2000 Sierra U12, etc. |
|
|
 |
Chuck Snider R.I.P.
From:
West Virginia, USA - Morgantown, WV
|
Posted 9 Dec 2008 7:21 pm
|
|
Ed, I just did that recently. I got a head cab built and left the speaker in the original cab.
I could have built a simple cab for the head, but after some wrestling with the pros and cons I decided to get Rick Johnson to make me a head cab and apply some tolex to match the color of my guitar. He would have to give you a quote if you got him to build one. Initially he quoted me $165 plus shipping for black tolex and basic grill cloth. I used a different color tolex which ended up costing me a little more.
In the end I was glad I had him do the work. It was well worth the price. His work was excellent, and very prompt. If you go to his website he has several pictures of his work on several different cabinets of different models.
If you wanted to build one yourself, all it would take is to make a box with inside dimensions of 18 1/2 wide X 9 1/2 high X 10 deep. Applying tolex might be a trick, but you might be able to cover it with lightweight carpet. The amp and the reverb tank get moved into the head cab. Then run leads to your speaker.
Here is what mine looks like and is sitting on top of the original cab which now only houses the speaker.
If you wanted to check with Rick his website is www.rickjohnsoncabs.com I would highly recommend him and his work!!
_________________
GFI U-12 Ultra Keyless, Carter Black U-12, both with Alumitones, and a sweet '70 Sho-Bud Permanent D-10, NV400 in Rick Johnson cabs, NV112, '73 Vibrosonic in Rick Johnson cabs, Hilton pedal, Steeler's Choice seat, Bessdang Gizmos from Dale Hansen, and a few other widgets and doodads.
I may not sound good, I just don't wanna sound bad. |
|
|
|
Ed Mooney
From:
Evanston,IL
|
Posted 10 Dec 2008 5:44 am
|
|
| Chuck, thanks for the info. That is one pretty cabinet and the price is very resonable. Ed |
|
|
|
George McLellan
From:
Duluth, MN USA
|
Posted 10 Dec 2008 11:25 am
|
|
Rick also makes a filler strip to fill the opening where the control panel was in the original cab.
Geo
Last edited by George McLellan on 10 Dec 2008 1:01 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
|
|
Chuck Snider R.I.P.
From:
West Virginia, USA - Morgantown, WV
|
Posted 10 Dec 2008 12:52 pm
|
|
Hi George, I didn't even think to ask Rick for that, but it should be simple enough to make a "blank" piece of lightweight plywood or masonite or something similar and mount in there. Just been too busy with the day job to do that. Hopefully get it done over the holidays.
I wish I was good enough at psg to be a full time musician, then I could do that while I'm just hangin' out. 
-Chuck
_________________
GFI U-12 Ultra Keyless, Carter Black U-12, both with Alumitones, and a sweet '70 Sho-Bud Permanent D-10, NV400 in Rick Johnson cabs, NV112, '73 Vibrosonic in Rick Johnson cabs, Hilton pedal, Steeler's Choice seat, Bessdang Gizmos from Dale Hansen, and a few other widgets and doodads.
I may not sound good, I just don't wanna sound bad. |
|
|
|
Jay Ganz
From:
Out Behind The Barn
|
Posted 11 Dec 2008 7:15 am
|
|
Wouldn't it be easier to just put in Neodymium speaker (or replacement magnet from Peavey) in there.
You'd knock off alot of weight that way also! |
|
|
|
David Doggett
From:
Bawl'mer, MD (formerly of MS, Nawluns, Gnashville, Knocksville, Lost Angeles, Bahsten. and Philly)
|
Posted 11 Dec 2008 9:11 am
|
|
Chuck, the material you use and the way you adapt that cab to be a speaker-only cab can have a big effect on tone and efficiency. You need to close that front slot to prevent wrap-around canceling some of the bass. Don' use something flimsy like masonite. Use something stiff like at least 1/2" plywood. And the fit needs to be tight. Also, with the chassis now removed, the back is now much more open than before. The best open back designs seem to close about 2/3s of the back, but you want it at least 1/2 closed. Consider replacing that top slat with something wider that goes all the way to the top.
All these changes will deepen the voice of the cab and make its bass response more efficient. Since bass frequencies draw the most power from the amp, anything that increases bass efficiency in the cab means you need to turn the bass EQ up less, and that in effect increases the power and headroom of the amp. Maybe you'll never need all that efficiency and power, but these changes are very simple and cheap, and will increase the versatility and value of the cab. |
|
|
|
Chuck Snider R.I.P.
From:
West Virginia, USA - Morgantown, WV
|
Posted 11 Dec 2008 12:25 pm
|
|
Hi Dave, thanks for the input, I'll keep that in mind when I finally get back to finalizing things with that. I don't play out at this point, and I don't play real loud, so I should be ok for a bit.
I saw a recent post of yours showing how you did something similar regarding the back plate to one of your amps to enhance the bottom end. For the back plate, does it matter on what that is made from or thinkness?
Sorry if this is taking this in a different direction.
-Chuck
_________________
GFI U-12 Ultra Keyless, Carter Black U-12, both with Alumitones, and a sweet '70 Sho-Bud Permanent D-10, NV400 in Rick Johnson cabs, NV112, '73 Vibrosonic in Rick Johnson cabs, Hilton pedal, Steeler's Choice seat, Bessdang Gizmos from Dale Hansen, and a few other widgets and doodads.
I may not sound good, I just don't wanna sound bad. |
|
|
|
David Doggett
From:
Bawl'mer, MD (formerly of MS, Nawluns, Gnashville, Knocksville, Lost Angeles, Bahsten. and Philly)
|
Posted 11 Dec 2008 3:52 pm
|
|
| Chuck Snider wrote: |
| For the back plate, does it matter on what that is made from or thinkness? |
Yes, just like in the rest of the cab, the material and thickness matter. Ideally you would use the same material and thickness of the rest of the cab, like the old Fender Tweeds did. However, from a practical standpoint, 1/2" plywood or thicker will do fine. |
|
|
|
