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Topic: Which topcoat (refinish) to use |
David Dunn
From:
Hideaway , Tx USA
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Posted 26 Nov 2008 9:03 am |
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I have a Sho-Bud Professional cabinet and necks ready to refinish. Prep and stain work is complete, I just can't decide what to top coat use. Being in the Paint & Body business I have access to a climate controlled booth, and application will be easy.
Nitro Lacquer, Polyurethane, or Automotive Clear ??
Your thoughts, I am leaning toward the Nitro-Lacquer product.
Dave |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 26 Nov 2008 9:28 am
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Nitrocellulose Lacquer is very easy to use.
I get mine at www.reranch.com in the spray cans. |
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Bobbe Seymour
From:
Hendersonville TN USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 26 Nov 2008 9:38 am
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I just did a natural finish Emmons P-P for Brett Cookingham in LA, I used Emron, yep, a lot of work and expensive but hammers and fires won't hurt it!
Would I recommend it to anyone else? Only if you want the best and have the time any bucks to do it.
Bobbe |
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Eric Philippsen
From:
Central Florida USA
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Posted 26 Nov 2008 10:19 am
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| Different lacquers affect tone differently. Some constrict it. Nitro works the best but it takes a long time to cure. You probably already know that. |
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Rick Kreuziger
From:
Merrillan, Wisconsin
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Posted 26 Nov 2008 10:47 am
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If you have a UV bake lamp, you might want to look at a UV cured polyurethane.
This is the extremely durable finish Williams is now using on it's guitars.
Rick |
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Pat Comeau
From:
New Brunswick, Canada
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 26 Nov 2008 4:41 pm
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| I will echo Pat Comeau. I used Deft on my first steel project. That was over 1.5 years. Still no fading. Great shine. It won't break the bank. |
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Dan Murphy
From:
Missouri, USA
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Posted 26 Nov 2008 5:14 pm Topcoat to use
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Hi I have been painting heavey trucks for 15 yrs I use Imron every day at joplin Kenworth. I refifnshed my 1970 profesional with Imron 3480 urethane clear ,and used 193 hardener and a drop of 8989 fast dry and it turned out great!just an Idea  |
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Dan Murphy
From:
Missouri, USA
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Posted 26 Nov 2008 5:18 pm Tone change
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After useing the Imron clear ,I didnt notice any change in tone. I have played this guitar for 16 yrs before I refinished it.  |
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Ray Walker
From:
Smithfield, NC, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 27 Nov 2008 7:33 am
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You can always go with Lacquer which is as old as time. However, a two part urethane is what I have been using for the past six or seven years. Contrary to everything I have heard from others.....there is no measurable difference in the tone of the guitar....and the finish is tough as nails...but flexible enough to "move" with changes in temperature and humidity. The mix must be right, but I feel sure you know all of that simply because you are in the business. I have a project guitar in the works right now, that will be finished as I have described and there is no doubt in my mind that it is the way to go for me. I have also refinished guitars that were once lacquer. Before doing so I have recorded the guitar and then again after the finish. There was "NO" tone difference that I could hear. Also as the years wear on.... the guitar maintains it's shine and luster. This is all, of course, my personal experience as well as my personal opinion. It does cost a bit more but for me the difference is well worth the extra cost.
Ray Walker |
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John Bechtel
From:
Nashville, Tennessee, R.I.P.
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Posted 28 Nov 2008 8:47 pm
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In 1979 I did my 1st. refinishing job to a ’49/’50 Fender T–8 Custom. My final coatings were about 4-coates of Clear Varothane from a spray-can. That finish l©©ks as good today as the day I put it on and that was the best sounding guitar and had a very rock-hard finish over Walnut wood!
_________________
<marquee> Go~Daddy~Go, (No), Go, It's your Break Time</marquee> L8R, jb
My T-10 Remington Steelmaster |
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Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 1 Dec 2008 11:17 pm
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Doesn't Williams use UV-cured polyester? I always heard that trying to UV-cure polyurethane resulted in violent fires.
PRR |
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